Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what

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Why of course, thats the first thing i try when testing it in warmup mode. The valve in question must be "inverted" to function. i have not tried flipping the valve upside down yet, that usually solves strange idle issues with the stock ecu....
@[email protected] is the idle valve new on the car?
 
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Why of course, thats the first thing i try when testing it in warmup mode. The valve in question must be "inverted" to function. i have not tried flipping the valve upside down yet, that usually solves strange idle issues with the stock ecu....
@[email protected] is the idle valve new on the car?
Old but was working before we started.
 
Feb 6, 2012
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Why of course, thats the first thing i try when testing it in warmup mode. The valve in question must be "inverted" to function. i have not tried flipping the valve upside down yet, that usually solves strange idle issues with the stock ecu....
@[email protected] is the idle valve new on the car?
I do have a spare I can swap out.
 

5.0Thunder

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Why of course, thats the first thing i try when testing it in warmup mode. The valve in question must be "inverted" to function. i have not tried flipping the valve upside down yet, that usually solves strange idle issues with the stock ecu....
@[email protected] is the idle valve new on the car?
Gotcha. Just to make it clear, I wasn't talking about physical changes, but changes in the tune from "Inverted" to "Normal" and back. I want to say there was a firmware revision on the PNPG2 where this was flipped or something and might have caused a few headaches but I don't remember the circumstances 100%.

One car I worked on had it wrong and after changing, it smoothed the idle out.
 

a91what

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Gotcha. Just to make it clear, I wasn't talking about physical changes, but changes in the tune from "Inverted" to "Normal" and back. I want to say there was a firmware revision on the PNPG2 where this was flipped or something and might have caused a few headaches but I don't remember the circumstances 100%.

One car I worked on had it wrong and after changing, it smoothed the idle out.
Yes, it is found under Idle control: pwm idle: valve mode- currently set to inverted
The physical change i was reffering to makes the plunger valve pull open against the engine vacuum, instead of being pulled closed against the engine vacuum.
 

5.0Thunder

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TwoHawks Car:

As far as the tune file, i can say that there are a few settings that are different than what I use on SBF's. Not that it's wrong, as I think you've had luck with them but I haven't so I'm just stating the differences.

Control Algorithm: Percent Baro - I use Speed Density. We've covered this one before.
Fuel Table: Cells around idle aren't very close in value, meaning large fueling differences, which typically cause oscillations.
Spark hardware latency: I usually keep mine at 10usec, where this one shows 45.
Ignition Table: Pretty high idle advance without the "valley" that people use to stabilize idle cells.
Valve mode: Tune shows inverted where most run normal (for a stock style valve orientation).
Idle Advance: Set to adaptive with 25deg across the graph for all rpm below 2200? I'm not sure what's goin on here.


-The Datalog shows high startup AFR's and ignition timing. I've never had luck on SBF's with stoich idles on a cold start and i've never needed that much ignition timing at idle.

Again, not saying any of the above is wrong, not discrediting anyone, just stating what is different than what I've had success doing.
 
Feb 6, 2012
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TwoHawks Car:

As far as the tune file, i can say that there are a few settings that are different than what I use on SBF's. Not that it's wrong, as I think you've had luck with them but I haven't so I'm just stating the differences.

Control Algorithm: Percent Baro - I use Speed Density. We've covered this one before.
Fuel Table: Cells around idle aren't very close in value, meaning large fueling differences, which typically cause oscillations.
Spark hardware latency: I usually keep mine at 10usec, where this one shows 45.
Ignition Table: Pretty high idle advance without the "valley" that people use to stabilize idle cells.
Valve mode: Tune shows inverted where most run normal (for a stock style valve orientation).
Idle Advance: Set to adaptive with 25deg across the graph for all rpm below 2200? I'm not sure what's goin on here.


-The Datalog shows high startup AFR's and ignition timing. I've never had luck on SBF's with stoich idles on a cold start and i've never needed that much ignition timing at idle.

Again, not saying any of the above is wrong, not discrediting anyone, just stating what is different than what I've had success doing.
I did some fine tuning on my end ie. swapped IAC valve. Sounds a little better. Not surging as much. LOL
 

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a91what

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As far as the tune file, i can say that there are a few settings that are different than what I use on SBF's. Not that it's wrong, as I think you've had luck with them but I haven't so I'm just stating the differences.

Control Algorithm: Percent Baro - I use Speed Density. We've covered this one before.
Fuel Table: Cells around idle aren't very close in value, meaning large fueling differences, which typically cause oscillations. I have tried a nice block of the same numbers (73) resulted in the same oscillation, the last round of values i believe i just let ve analyzer do its thing.
Spark hardware latency: I usually keep mine at 10usec, where this one shows 45. I just plugged in the last value used in a baseline tune i have saved from my car when i had a distributor.
Ignition Table: Pretty high idle advance without the "valley" that people use to stabilize idle cells. See idle advance
Valve mode: Tune shows inverted where most run normal (for a stock style valve orientation). MS2PNP all of them i have tuned needed the valve set inverted, on this car i have verified correct operation using 2 datalogs with the valve in warmup mode and the valve mode set in both positions.
Idle Advance: Set to adaptive with 25deg across the graph for all rpm below 2200? I'm not sure what's goin on here. Its an advanced idle tuning feature, the way i have it set the car will enter this mode to stop all timing oscillation. basically the settings i used lock the timing to whats in the table when the tps is below 2%. this is just to stop the timing oscillation. The high timing number is an attempt to stabilize the idle, higher advance typically creates more vacuum.


-The Datalog shows high startup AFR's and ignition timing. I've never had luck on SBF's with stoich idles on a cold start and i've never needed that much ignition timing at idle. I use what the car seems to like, some like it rich others lean. for instance my sbf likes to idle above stoic around 16 afr warmup is at stoic. even using the dreaded e303 cam i do not have oscillation issues. I increase timing above 23* at idle to stop header glow, even the stock 5.0 ecu idles the car between 20-24* timing

Again, not saying any of the above is wrong, not discrediting anyone, just stating what is different than what I've had success doing.

I have no worries about being discredited, i have tuned many many cars on this forum ranging from stock to wild. I appreciate the input even though i have been successful tuning these systems i am always open to ideas, i don't know everything. That said if you have some tips or tricks i am very amicable to learn methods i do not currently implement.:nice:
 

a91what

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@Blown88GT I just want to say that the injector dead time spreadsheet you let me re-post in the tech thread is fantastic. I just used it for the first time today and it takes all the guess work out. Great job.
Also you offered at one time to do a writeup on MAF tuning right? still interested?
 

5.0Thunder

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@Blown88GT I just want to say that the injector dead time spreadsheet you let me re-post in the tech thread is fantastic. I just used it for the first time today and it takes all the guess work out. Great job.
Also you offered at one time to do a writeup on MAF tuning right? still interested?
This calculator helped me with my 80lbers for sure. I believe a few people collaborated on the project so thanks to everybody involved. Blown88 helped me set a tune up for my GT500 maf on my roots blown Fox with MS2 and I've been thoroughly enjoying the maf tuning process. I'm sure he can detail the settings information better than I can but I could write some info about general tuning, table/graph setup, etc. if nobody else volunteers.

Hey everybody, I've been following along with the progress on this forum for a while while working on my 306 On3 turbo install and finally started it up last night. Here's the setup (let me know if I'm forgetting something important):

Ford Racing 306 crate engine w/e303 & GT40x heads
60lb injectors & 320lph pump
Edelbrock Performer
Astro A5 with Ram stage 2 clutch
PiMPxs with Spartan 2 Wideband

I followed the initial startup instructions from Stinger last night and wouldn't you know it, she fired right up on the first crank :D After adjusting the idle stop screw it idles pretty well with a little surging but otherwise everything seems pretty good.

I set the fixed timing at 20 in the ECU and verified it's 20 on the balancer but have not done any further timing checks or anything after changing back to "use table" in Tuner Studio.

I'm going to the shop tomorrow to try and fix a small coolant leak coming from the driver side front head stud and figured I would tinker with the tune some more while I'm there.

I've attached the most recent tune and log file in case anyone has time to take a peek :) I have not done any real variations on RPM or anything either as it was late and the first startup on a fresh motor so please let me know if there's anything I should do next or advice you can give me from here.

Thanks guys, you rock!

Oh, and I almost forgot to attach a pic!
View attachment 603955
I can try to take a look at these files and mention anything that stands out. I've been so dang busy with work lately and usually enjoy taking my mind off of it with car/tuning stuff, as long as there is time for it.
 

Noobz347

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I can see this going south pretty quick.

You guys that have issues that you're working through on your cars need to create your "own" threads with just your info in it.

I shouldn't see 3 threads for 3 different cars here in Hoopty's thread.
 

5.0Thunder

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Do you think I'd need a stronger spring in my BV to keep it from opening at idle? Or is there a way to somehow limit the vacuum to it (thinking like a manual boost controller that would be used for the WG) to make it require more vacuum or something to open? Just thinking out loud :p

So it sounds like my idle vacuum is in the normal range, but when I've done a few 2500-3k holds I've never seen the MAP show any boost (> 100kPa). In fact the only time it's been up to 100 is before I start the car. I would think I'd be seeing at least a little boost when revving up, no? Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
The correct method is to buy the correct spring. :)

You'll see 100kpa before starting the car because that's what our atmosphere is. When the engine is running, you're in vacuum. The engine isn't loading up during idle or cruise so you won't see 100+kpa until you load the engine and spool the turbo/blower. when revving, you also won't see much, if any, boost because the engine is totally unloaded. Nothing you're seeing is out of the ordinary.

Yeah that's something I may due in the future, but right now I'm just frustrated.
Started the Pimp install on Thursday night and had it running pretty good on Sunday until something :poo:the bed.
Oh well that's hot rodding.
Hopefully nothings wrong with the ecu, it does sync and show active gauges albeit not much since the car won't start.
Really seems like spark/timing related...going to try to find time this week to do some diag....:fuss:
Good luck man, these things can sometimes kill projects but if you work through them correctly, you'll be rewarded with fun times!
 

wiseguyk

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I can see this going south pretty quick.

You guys that have issues that you're working through on your cars need to create your "own" threads with just your info in it.

I shouldn't see 3 threads for 3 different cars here in Hoopty's thread.
Sorry Noobs, I checked with @a91what before adding my saga to the other stuff already going on in this thread. He was cool with me posting here since my questions are mostly about tuning my PiMPxs. It just happens that I'm learning how to tune on my first engine swap and turbo install so some of my questions are related to that stuff too.

Let me know if you'd still like me to start a new thread and I'll be happy to do that rather than continuing to ramble on here. :)
 

Noobz347

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The general questions didn't draw my attention. The dudes posting tunes and spreadsheets and the like, should really have their own threads so that their info is easy to access. In the long-run, it'll only help the guys that are trying to get help with issues. It can get confusing as the thread grows.
 

a91what

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Agreed, let's make this a general questions area and move the car specific tuning to individual threads.
If the members could create there own threads/move the posts relevant to your threads I will work on moving the posts you cant/miss.
 

5.0Thunder

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I agree and think all threads should state car type, engine type/size, injector size/qty, fuel type, transmission, basically anything pertinent to tuning, in the first post.
Maybe create a sticky that outlines how to start a thread in this section.
 
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High Guys. Ok, It been a while. I am back and excited! Finally got the new AFR 225 heads and cam installed and its all buttoned up and they just got it running. Has not been tunned yet. Ran into a couple of glitches along the way. Hope to get everything sorted though.