Why of course I'm referring to the heater,and a.c. lines that are there, there is absolutely nothing else to bch about.
I'd get a piece of flat aluminum, and just glue it to the backside w/ adhesive like goop.
Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread
- Thread starter tannerc91gt
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I'd get a piece of flat aluminum, and just glue it to the backside w/ adhesive like goop.
Having a little difficulty with the routing for my vacuum/boost lines. Strictly due to inexperience.
I've got a distribution block mounted on the cylinder head. I'll be running a line from the back of the intake to this block. So far, I've got the BOVs connected to this block as well as the fuel pressure regulator.
I'll be connecting the wastegates to my boost solenoid but still need a boost reference point for the gates. Borgs do not have a port on the compressor housing for this or a boss to tap. I've seen the bulkhead type fittings for putting a port in the silicone elbows for this but seems like just asking for a leak or problem.
Is it acceptable to use the distribution block for this? I've been told that the gates should only see boost (no vacuum) but I've seen many people use a similar block (doesn't make it correct). They also state this where I bought the block, maybe someone can break this down for me? MAP sensor will be directly attached to the intake so it will not use the block.
Boost solenoid will be setup like this:
Just trying to figure out the right way to do this the first time, be it tapping the compressor housing or using the distribution block. I'm overthinking things here I'm sure.
I've got a distribution block mounted on the cylinder head. I'll be running a line from the back of the intake to this block. So far, I've got the BOVs connected to this block as well as the fuel pressure regulator.
I'll be connecting the wastegates to my boost solenoid but still need a boost reference point for the gates. Borgs do not have a port on the compressor housing for this or a boss to tap. I've seen the bulkhead type fittings for putting a port in the silicone elbows for this but seems like just asking for a leak or problem.
Is it acceptable to use the distribution block for this? I've been told that the gates should only see boost (no vacuum) but I've seen many people use a similar block (doesn't make it correct). They also state this where I bought the block, maybe someone can break this down for me? MAP sensor will be directly attached to the intake so it will not use the block.
Boost solenoid will be setup like this:
Just trying to figure out the right way to do this the first time, be it tapping the compressor housing or using the distribution block. I'm overthinking things here I'm sure.
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No. Weld in a tap on the upstream side of the TB for those connections. I have heard that vacuum will kill the diaphragm in a wastegate......
Or use a check valve.
Or use a check valve.
A check valve I had considered. Some had suggested against it as it could trap air holding the gates open. Just wasn't sure what it meant by "bleed down" and skewing boost readings that might rule it out all together. The whole idea of the distribution block was to keep everything easy and tied together.
Otherwise I'll weld some 1/8" bungs on just after the compressor outlet and be done with it.
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I had to stay awake until I figured this out.
Ordered a couple bungs for the charge pipe connected to the turbo. I'll get the boost reference from there for the gates and hook the controller to the vacuum block with everything else.
Grabbed a 3/8 bung for the IAT sensor which I guess will go roughly here.
If you ignore all the remaining fab/wiring/head scratching work left, I'm getting pretty close.
All that remains:
Turbo oil feed/drain
Alternator
Tensioner
Injectors
Converter
Trans cooler
Shifter
Wideband o2
Dump tubes
Heat wrap
Ordered a couple bungs for the charge pipe connected to the turbo. I'll get the boost reference from there for the gates and hook the controller to the vacuum block with everything else.
Grabbed a 3/8 bung for the IAT sensor which I guess will go roughly here.
If you ignore all the remaining fab/wiring/head scratching work left, I'm getting pretty close.
All that remains:
Turbo oil feed/drain
Alternator
Tensioner
Injectors
Converter
Trans cooler
Shifter
Wideband o2
Dump tubes
Heat wrap
Place IAT sensor just before the TB....6-12"
I have had the most accurate readings in this location.
I have had the most accurate readings in this location.
Welded some bung action today. Got the IAT sensor setup, hooked up my 3 bar map sensor (in the stock location which is awesome), finished drilling out/welding up the BOV flanges and added some spots to reference boost without hacking up my compressor housings.
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If I didn't know better..... 
I would say that Tanner might be trying to finish this project.
I would say that Tanner might be trying to finish this project.
You noticed how quickly the first 75% of the build went. This last 25% is nearly foreign territory at this point.If I didn't know better.....
I would say that Tanner might be trying to finish this project.
This is the first time ive browsed Stangnet on desktop view in a long time and holy giant pictures. Hopefully everyone uses mobile!
B.erazo712
Active Member
- Feb 6, 2015
- 235
- 46
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Just saw a pic of a th400 with the bell swap-looks terrifying lol.. Waiting patiently for you to do yours 
That is a horrendous job. Mine is on hold indefinitely. Will be in the car with a stock bell for a while.Just saw a pic of a th400 with the bell swap-looks terrifying lol.. Waiting patiently for you to do yours
I thought so... But wasn't confident enough to point out his very sloppy lopping off of a bell housing to bolt another one on
I have one too but wouldn't even consider doing it myself. Probably going to sell the TH400 and stay true to my man pedal anyhow.
