The Reenmachine DOHC '67 Shelby Clone Convertible Progress
- Thread starter reenmachine
- Start date
reenmachine said:
I think I have a pretty good handle on how to set up the mounts for a regular small block...I was just curious if you had to cantilever the mounts away from the cross member to get the engine as far back as desired or if the engine mounting points are still in a vertical plane above the cross member?...just trying to work thorugh the structural issues.
The mounts are still vertical, but their attachment point to the engine is as far forward as possible. Not so far that they're loaded badly, but definitely forward of the CG.eisinger said:
Flaming River offers it as an option on their columns.65mistress said:Ok, I got my fix, I'm good for a few more days.
Where did you get the idea for the high beam switch on the turn signal lever? That's pretty sweet.
They told me that it's an option that you must order when you order the column, not something that can be retrofitted later. There are two small wires that run through the column (with the rest of the wires) that would probably be next to impossible to do without disassembling the entire column.65mistress said:Is it something that you would have to swap out the entire column for or is it an add on or would I need to call them and ask?
I would love to get the beam switch up off of the floor, with my huge feet and all I blind people at night when I shift around in the drivers seat.
Now the proper sound and thermal barrier materials are going in. This makes a distinct difference in heat and noise inside the car. I'm using materials from Cascade Audio Engineering.
I also added a Painless 7-circuit auxiliary fuse box next to the regular Painless fuse box. There are a lot of electrical accessories in the car (alarm, power windows, power door locks, tire pressure monitor, fog lights, etc.) and I wanted them all to be properly wired and fused instead of just piggybacking onto one another.
I also added a Painless 7-circuit auxiliary fuse box next to the regular Painless fuse box. There are a lot of electrical accessories in the car (alarm, power windows, power door locks, tire pressure monitor, fog lights, etc.) and I wanted them all to be properly wired and fused instead of just piggybacking onto one another.
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67FBack
New Member
Electrical & Fuse Box
Reen,
Why didn't you go with a 21 circuit harness in the beginning instead of adding on?
I would love the see where you put it. Did you mount it in the trunk or under the dash?
Is that the same sticky sound deadening material that the factory uses? God I hate that stuff (as far as removal). I was told that is really doesn't do that much. I take it you feel it does work well. Let me know what you think!
Where did you get your electric door locks, windows and tire pressure monitor? I am going to do the same, and I have heard that a lot of the aftermarket door stuff is not that good.
Thanks,
Richard
PS. The Flaming River high beam button is something you can order, however the installation by you would void their warranty . It is highly recommended that they do the install.
Reen,
Why didn't you go with a 21 circuit harness in the beginning instead of adding on?
I would love the see where you put it. Did you mount it in the trunk or under the dash?
Is that the same sticky sound deadening material that the factory uses? God I hate that stuff (as far as removal). I was told that is really doesn't do that much. I take it you feel it does work well. Let me know what you think!
Where did you get your electric door locks, windows and tire pressure monitor? I am going to do the same, and I have heard that a lot of the aftermarket door stuff is not that good.
Thanks,
Richard
PS. The Flaming River high beam button is something you can order, however the installation by you would void their warranty . It is highly recommended that they do the install.
I used the regular Painless harness as a foundation since it made wiring most of the car so easy. You could do it either way of course, it was just nice to have a lot of the "normal" stuff taken care of. I mounted the new fuse box right next to the regular one under the dash.67FBack said:
No, it's worlds different than the cheapo stuff you get from the factory, and it makes a big difference. Heat and road noise are noticably reduced. It's more obvious in a hardtop than a convertible though.67FBack said:
The windows are from Electric Life. I've used them before and they work great. Easy install, everything fits, etc. I just ordered some extra high power door lock actuators from a shop I trust and have patronized for years. They special-ordered stronger units, saying that the regular units they (and everyone else) sell don't always have the oomph to reliably push our old, low-tech mechanisms. Perhaps this is why you've heard bad things. The tire pressure monitoring system is from SmarTire, and seemed to be the best combination of price and functionality. I liked the small, simple LEDs instead of some giant LCD screen readout. I don't need to know exactly what the pressure and temperature is in each tire, just if there's a problem. You can get an upgraded interface that tells you all of that stuff though.67FBack said:
I'm kind of behind the curve in asking questions that aren't pertinent to the current topic but I was curious about the mounting of the Heidt's front end and the fact that you removed the diagonal braces that housed the original struts. Obviously, with the MII suspension, they serve no purpose other than to perhaps offer additional bracing to the frame rails. I've seen pictures of other builds where the diagonals were left in place. It looks much cleaner without them...my question is, did you do any additional strengthening to the lower radiator support or are those braces just not needed with the MII set-up?
Thanks.
Thanks.
You don't need the strut rod housings with the MII setup. Their sole purpose is to mount the strut rods, which are no longer needed. All the structure forward of the suspension crossmember does at this point is hang the body and radiator. I think the effect on impact protection is minimal.eisinger said:
Nope -- I just looked at the early one since the shape is closest to the original. The later ones are kinda swoopy and I don't feel they match the lines of the car well.Edbert said:
This was a bit of a project. I want to keep things as clean and uncluttered as possible under the hood, so I rerouted all of the heater hoses and A/C lines. Everything exits the cabin via bulkheads in the right side panel under the cowl and runs in the wheel well. The heater hose connections on the engine are both at the rear, so there are just two short heater hoses running from the bulkhead under the right hood hinge to those connections. There are two short A/C hoses running from the compressor, which is mounted on the lower right side of the engine, through the apron and core support. These are hidden by the air cleaner assembly. I'm doing some additional armoring to the lines and parts in the wheel well. This was one of those time-consuming side projects, but I think it adds a nice touch to the car.
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4MuscleMachines
Member
reenmachine said:Now the proper sound and thermal barrier materials are going in. This makes a distinct difference in heat and noise inside the car. I'm using materials from Cascade Audio Engineering.
Reen, I have been looking for those exact brake/clutch pedals from Lokar since I already have the gas assembly. What p/n's did you use? I once ordered a set and they did not fit so I returned them. Did you have to trim anything?
Also, how does the Cascade matting compare to Dynamat extreme? I am worried about trapping moisture under the matting that will eventually lead to rust.
Frank
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The pedal pads are for 55-57 Chevys or something because there was no other choice at the time. I modified the pedals to fit them by trimming in some spots and welding a little spacer in elsewhere. Lokar now makes pedals specific to the Mustang which should bolt right on.4MuscleMachines said:
The matting is similar to Dynamat Extreme. The floors were stripped to bare metal, sealed with epoxy, and then painted, so I'm not at all worried about rust. That being said, I'm using Lizard Skin on the next car (being applied now) to try it out.
The console is coming together nicely. A test fit now that the carpet is in went well, and I'm making the last few modifications to it. It's got 2 Stewart-Warner gauges, the power top switch, the check engine LED, a blue LED-tipped fog light switch, and 2 JL Audio speakers. Tomorrow I will mount the power window switches in the rear portion and install the console for good.
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4MuscleMachines
Member
It's all coming together so cleanly and flawlessly, that's why I want for you to do my 70 gauge setup I emailed you about. 
