I have the DCC PWM variable speed controller, and it does have provisions to speed up the fan when AC kicks on. I believe it sets the fan at 50% minimum.
I have the DCC PWM variable speed controller, and it does have provisions to speed up the fan when AC kicks on. I believe it sets the fan at 50% minimum.Does the DCC have provisions for kicking fans on high when AC compressor comes on?
Here's the data from DCC testing on the Mark VIII fan with the FK-35 controller....
Someone said earlier that the Mark VIII fan pulls more than a stock clutch fan. I suppose that's possible, but I really doubt it without seeing the numbers. 4k CFM, which I think is a high estimate, might be enough airflow to get the job done, but I'll bet the stock fan still pulls more. I could open the door, reach under my car, and feel the airflow from the stock fan when I revved. Stock fan moves some SERIOUS air. So, I'm skeptical that's only the proclaims 3k CFM or that an electric fan actually moves 4k. I've heard these numbers for a long time, but I don't put a ton of faith into them, even though I know both approaches get the job done.
"renewed", whatever that means.
I also want to move the battery to the back during this install. In that regard, what kind of wiring arrangement regarding the fan should I be looking to accomplish?
This of course, can be done but I question its value for anything not headed to the track. If it's not a sealed battery, it should be vented. The cables should be very large, and a fuse or breaker should be installed along with a battery disconnect. I also don't like having them in the back of a hatch. I'm about to remove the one in the 89 (I bought it this way) and put it back under the hood.
I had a taylor aluminum and switched it out for a black moroso.All day, all night. Battery to rear. Weight's in the right place, and frees up room in the engine bay. I think I have 00 gauge wire run back to it. The cutoff switch is behind the license plate on both of my turbo cars. Only thing I don't like is thety looking blue plastic boxes. I think I'll eventually put a nicer box around them.
Yep... Moroso. That's what I have except in blue, on both cars. The top latches don't work anymore, the plastic scratches easy, and frankly plastic just feels cheap and worthless. Why did you dislike the taylor?I had a taylor aluminum and switched it out for a black moroso.
I didn't like the metal which increased the chances of a short to ground when jump starting or charging.Yep... Moroso. That's what I have except in blue, on both cars. The top latches don't work anymore, the plastic scratches easy, and frankly plastic just feels cheap and worthless. Why did you dislike the taylor?
1. More voltage --> less current needed. DCC did a lot of testing & analysis & he still hold the controller patent & licenses it to Derale.That's a solid data point. I guess it leaves me with more questions than answers:
1 - How big a difference does voltage play?
2 - How much does it drop compared to a clutch fan when hooked up to a radiator/condenser/intercooler?
3 - How much does the stock clutch fan actually pull?
Thanks for the info. I'm more curious than ever, now. Is it in my head that the airflow from the clutch fan is A LOT higher?
Anyways, I'm happy with the twin spals, the Mark VIII, and the clutch fan on each of my 3 foxes.
I have the Taylor box In my coupe and the trunk closes . No reason why it won’t fit in your hatch .I'm working on increasing traction so I can more fully enjoy the hp I'm producing. Right now I can forget any substantial throttle in 1st, and also 1/2 of 2nd. 3rd and 4th are a sheer joy. I'd like to get the joy factor into the lower gears. Moving the battery is not all I can do, I know. Loosing weight helps but if I cant loose it, moving it to the back is then next best thing. Better tires are in the future but what I have now are not garbage. I can also loose at least 70lbs off the front and still keep all current faculties. I'm gonna ditch my huge boat anchor radiator and fan assembly for a lighter setup. I can loose 20lbs there easy. Then loose another 50lbs with tubular K member and the related goodies. Some will say, not worth it...bla bla bla. But this is my hobby, so it's what I do.
I looked at the Taylor box but its 11+ inches tall. Looks like it might be a clearance problem in the far rear of the hatch and may not let the lid close. I still have the padding and carpet obviously so that reduces my height clearance. I'm sure the Taylor would fit in a track car hatch with the carpet and padding removed but that aint my car.
The summit box is 9.5" ext height and will fit far aft not problem. Actually Summit makes two different size boxes and Id be going for the smaller one. My stock size battery fits within.
I have the Taylor box In my coupe and the trunk closes . No reason why it won’t fit in your hatch .
I’ve had 2 hatches as well . I’ve also seen the Taylor box in a hatch before . This box actually came out of nicks ttop car . It was on the shelf in the shop . I thought they made a few diff sizes .The hatch has trim panel on the interior. Maybe that protrudes more than a standard coupe lid. And your carpet and padding in the coupe trunk floor probably is not as thick as the hatch floor. I measured and the space is less than 11" high. And the Taylor box is over 11" high. That spells clearance problem to me.
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