hey guys whats goin on. today i tried to strtch the rpm's out a little bit for my buddy to hear my new exhaust and when i put the throttle about halfway down it started to bog down really bad. if i let out to about a 1/4 throttle it will quit...but once it starts boggin i wont hardly pull at all....it jus stops pullin all together and then tries to keep goin....it seems like a mis fire but im not sure....i think my fuel pump is gettin kinda weak or maybe an ignition problem...can yall help me??
top end bogging...need help!!
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no i never do...if anyhting i jus spray it off a little bit...but i havnt done that in about 3 weeks....
Ike83
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juiced_94gt
Active Member
sounds like a misfire to me...check your plugs, wires, and injectors (by putting a screwdiver to the injector body while running you will hear it ticking through the screwdriver to your ear)
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
No codes found, start looking at the TFI module. The common failure mode for TFI modules is a high speed miss when warm. TFI modules can be checked at many auto parts stores. You would need to bring along a hair dryer to heat the module while testing. This simulates the hot engine compartment and makes the module act like it is on your car rather than a test bench.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
No codes found, start looking at the TFI module. The common failure mode for TFI modules is a high speed miss when warm. TFI modules can be checked at many auto parts stores. You would need to bring along a hair dryer to heat the module while testing. This simulates the hot engine compartment and makes the module act like it is on your car rather than a test bench.
i checked the fuel pressure and its fine other than when i give it the gas it will go from about 33 psi idling to about 44psi and go back down to 34 psi. im not sure if thats normal or not. but the check engine light comes on sometimes but jus for a min or two and then goes off and maybe flash on and off a few times after that....but my injectors are brand new.....and we just bumped the timing up to 14* about a week ago and it ran fine until yesterday...you think that may be my problem??
it was starting to do it around 3500 or so but just earlier i was jus gettin up to speed and it cut out like a mis fire...so idk...we jus put in a new 5in tach a while back...coud that wiring have effected somethin??
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