WHAT NOW? HELP, CAR WONT START

[biglg]

DAM DAM DAM. 1989 Mustang GT Convertible

Had my car 2 months. THe right fog never has worked, the left fog works. I checked the connectors with a test lamp, nothing. I checked wires, couldnt find anything. No power anywhere I looked on the non working fog light wiring. So I hard wired the non working fog into the working fog. Please read below.

Ok, So i complete the fog/parking light wiring so the fogs run independend or when the parking lamps are on. I also wired my non working right fog directly off the working left fog lamp. I am dont with the project, start the car. Everything works fine. I pull it out of the garage. It sits for 14 hours. NOW WHAT?

I go out last night to pull it into the garage for some more work. THe SOB wont start. It doesnt even turn over. It is 100% dead. It is parked on a hill. I roll start it in reverse, it starts! I drive it and let it run. I shut it off. Guess what. IT STILL DOESNT START. ANY ideas? What the hell now. Would any of the wiring I completed have anything to do with this? I dont know how or why it would? HELP ME PLEASE GUYS.

 

[90mustangGT]

DAM DAM DAM. 1989 Mustang GT Convertible

Had my car 2 months. THe right fog never has worked, the left fog works. I checked the connectors with a test lamp, nothing. I checked wires, couldnt find anything. No power anywhere I looked on the non working fog light wiring. So I hard wired the non working fog into the working fog. Please read below.

Ok, So i complete the fog/parking light wiring so the fogs run independend or when the parking lamps are on. I also wired my non working right fog directly off the working left fog lamp. I am dont with the project, start the car. Everything works fine. I pull it out of the garage. It sits for 14 hours. NOW WHAT?

I go out last night to pull it into the garage for some more work. THe SOB wont start. It doesnt even turn over. It is 100% dead. It is parked on a hill. I roll start it in reverse, it starts! I drive it and let it run. I shut it off. Guess what. IT STILL DOESNT START. ANY ideas? What the hell now. Would any of the wiring I completed have anything to do with this? I dont know how or why it would? HELP ME PLEASE GUYS.

Sounds like the starter, the starter solonoid, or a really dead battery. Does the battery have 12V? If so does the starter recieve 12V when you turn the key? If so it's the starter, if not check to see if the signal wire to the starter solonoid on the drivers side fender well is getting signal when cranking. If so, but the starter is not getting voltage, then it's the solonoid, if it isn't getting signal to the solonoid then it's either a bad connection or a ignition switch.

 

[90mustangGT]

let me add... check fuses, you might have shorted something doing your wiring.

 

[biglg]

CAR WONT START

Thanks for the reply. Ok, first I am a rookie, trying to learn and this forum is my basis for my knowledge.

Can you tell me exactly how and exactly where to check the battery and wiring for 12v? I have a light tester, will that work?

Secondly, i know a lot of people have done the fog/parking light wiring. But splicing into the working fogs power and ground wouldnt have anything to do with this would it? THe car started just fine after I completed the fog wiring? GRRRR. Always something on this dam thing.

 

[90mustangGT]

Thanks for the reply. Ok, first I am a rookie, trying to learn and this forum is my basis for my knowledge.

Can you tell me exactly how and exactly where to check the battery and wiring for 12v? I have a light tester, will that work?

Secondly, i know a lot of people have done the fog/parking light wiring. But splicing into the working fogs power and ground wouldnt have anything to do with this would it? THe car started just fine after I completed the fog wiring? GRRRR. Always something on this dam thing.

You will need something that actually gives you a reading, a test light will only show voltage being present, not if it's enough.

Some wiring is linked togeather, short one thing and it shorts the fuse that also powers other parts of the car. Such as the ignition switch is probally on the same fuse as your fog light switch, but I'm not sure because I don't work on older mustangs much anymore. Older car, get used to it being one thing after another.

 

[biglg]

Ok,
All I did was took the left working fog pos & neg and spliced into them and ran a pos and neg wire from the working fog wires, to the other fog. That wouldnt be an issue would it? The lights arent unless I have the switch on! THey dont stay on!

Secondly, I just went out and I couldnt get the car to roll start this time. I jump started it. It would start everytime. After letting it run for a few minutes, or sometimes seconds. It will just die on its own!

I tried this 5 times. Each time allowing it to charge longer on the jumper car battery. I would start the dead car, let it run and it will die anywhere from 1-4 minutes after disconnecting the jumper cables. Try to start it on its own, and nothing. Wont do a dam thing. I think once I got the click click click sound. I am not very knowledgeable on these issues. Is this a battery, starter, alternator issue? HELP me please. I do have a scosche multimeter that I havent used, and have no idea how to use. Will this work? Thanks.

 

[Daggar]

In some portion of your wiring job, there is a short to ground. What is your battery voltage? Will the battery charge? Will it hold the charge? If so, for how long? Do you know how to use a Multi-meter? I think that you'll probably end up slapping yourself in the forehead when you find the actual cause. hehe

 

[90lxcoupe]

I think you can pretty much rule the starter out.

since you were doing work with wiring and the car will start, i think whatever you did with the wiring is killing the battery. are you sure that the fog lights arent on all the time? mabye you accident wired them so they are on all the time.

also it could be just a coincidence that the alternator just broke right after you wired the for lights. take the alternator off and go to auto zone or some parts store and have them test it. if the alternator is good then you will know that something in your car is draining the battery.

 

[biglg]

I can jump start the car. Within 1-4 minutes the car will just die on its own.

I can see my cars amp gauge because there is no cluster as I have my intire interior out of the car right now.

I have a scosche multimeter I got in a $20 kit from walmart. I have never used it, and have no clue how too. ALl the settings are foreign to me. GRR I hate not knowing anything about cars. I am trying to learn, but it is getting aggrevating.

 

[jrichker]

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

Basic Automotive Electrical help
Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual.

Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(s) in the Multimeter are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(s).

Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the upside down “U” symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 1.0-0.3 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.

Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.

Step 5.) Then see http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting

 

[biglg]

OK,
Here is where I am now.

I took the battery to have it tested. The battery charged and tested fine!

I took the alternator off. Took it to Advance to have them test it. The amperage was good. But in a KEY NOTE it said that light on wiring should be off! Well it was lit up red??? So they told me the alternator was bad??

I took the alternator to auto zone and they checked it and said it passed all tests? THey didnt have the little light wiring on their testor, a completely different tester. So is the alternator bad, or is it ok?

SO, I come home and do a light test on the neg post and neg cable. THe light comes on. I went through every fuse removing them one at a time. The light testor came on with every fuse removed one at a time?

Now what the hell is going on?

I have my multimeter out. I left the pos battery cable hooked up. I undid the negative. I put the black multimeter wire in the COM CAT II hole, I put the red wired in the 10ADC hole. I turned the knob on the meter to 10A (in red). I touched the wires to the neg cable and the neg battery post. I cant get a read. What am I doing wrong here? Any more thoughts? Thanks.

 

[biglg]

By the way, I unhooked the pos and neg from each fog light since i had previously messed with the wiring. One other thing is that I also tried to start the car after the battery was charged, the car started but I didnt leave it running. I unhooked the battery cables.

 

[biglg]

Upgrade Alternator

I wanted to do an alternator upgrade, and one auto store said my alternator was the issue anyways. So I guess now is a time to do it. So here are my questions.

I have an 89 Mustang Gt Convertible. The alternator is said to be shot, at least one auto store said it has something shorted inside of it. I would like to put in an upgraded larger alternator. I plan to later have a stereo, electric fan, etc.

I know some people are using 94-95 mustang alternators. Can someone please tell me if I purchase one what exactly I will need and instructions on how to do the install?

Are there other alternators from other cars that will also work? I have seen on eBay where there is a seller than sells a direct bolt on no modification and they label it as small housing/casing.

Any recommendations on the best replacement alternator with the smallest amount of modification would be great. Let me know the vehicle make and years. If I have to do modifications please let me know all and any instructions and parts needed. Thanks as always.

 

[jrichker]

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto
parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

 

[biglg]

Thanks guys. I picked up a 3G alternator off a newer Mustang for $50. I have read contradicting information on this next topic. Do I use my stock 2g alternator pulley, or leave the pulley that is on the 3g alternator I just purchased used? I am sure i will have more questions, but that is it for now.

Oh no, not really. I am going to use 4gauge and rewire. Can anyone give me a part number for this fusable link that I need? Like from autozone, advance auto parts, radio shack, lowes? I would like to make sure I get the correct fuse for this. Or just tell me what sytle fuse and holder, and exactly where I want to put the fusable link. Thanks.

 

[biglg]

I am going to work on my 3G alternator upgrade tonight. Or at least get some of the supplies. I am going to put in a wafer/ANL style fuse and holder on the 4 gauge power wire. Is a 150 Amp fuse enough? I noticed some say to use a 125; well no one has a 125 locally. So I can get a 150, or a 200. I see some say to use a 200. What does everyone recommend?

Also, if I already have 4 gauge ground from battery to frame, and 4 gauge ground to engine block I don’t need to change anything do I? I only need 4 gauge wires for the power, correct? I do nothing with a ground anywhere on the car or alt? Please let me know ASAP as I plan to get these parts in a few hours. Thanks, Landon.

 

[jrichker]

I am going to work on my 3G alternator upgrade tonight. Or at least get some of the supplies. I am going to put in a wafer/ANL style fuse and holder on the 4 gauge power wire. Is a 150 Amp fuse enough? I noticed some say to use a 125; well no one has a 125 locally. So I can get a 150, or a 200. I see some say to use a 200. What does everyone recommend?

Also, if I already have 4 gauge ground from battery to frame, and 4 gauge ground to engine block I don’t need to change anything do I? I only need 4 gauge wires for the power, correct? I do nothing with a ground anywhere on the car or alt? Please let me know ASAP as I plan to get these parts in a few hours. Thanks, Landon.

A 125 or 150 amp fuse will be fine. The perferred ground setup uses a a 4 gauge ground wire running from the engine block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. Avoid using the water pump or front timing cover bolts for this ground. They tend to have corrosion problems that make for bad grounds.

Picture courtesy of timewarped1972

 

[biglg]

Thanks for the reply. I guess to keep it simple for my rookie a**. If I use 4 gauge from the alternator stud, directly to the battery do I need to do anything to the factory ground wires in the car? Or just leave them?

Secondly, Can someone in simple terms tell me exactly what I need to do to wire this alt up? Here is what I think is correct.

Take 4 gauge directly from the battery to the stud on the alt, going to put in a 150A inline fuse.

The one factory alt plug, keep all wires intact and plug into the alternator.

Cut the connector off the other plug. Now, I believe the two black and orange need ring terminals, connect these two to the stud on the 3G alt as well. Correct? The remaining wire from this connector I connect to the little connector on the 3G alt? Stator?(SPELLING?)

Now I have read do not connect the black/white wires. I dont know where those are at or what they are talking about. I think I am on the right track.

So, do I do anything to the ground? What wires do I not use out of the factory alt connectors? Do I remove any wiring? Please a little more help on this. Thanks, Landon.

 

[biglg]

3G alt upgrade

Thanks for the reply on the 3G alt upgrade. I had a question about what you were saying about under no circumstances hooking up the 2 10 gauge black/white wiring to alternator. I believe you meant 2 black/orange, correct? I don’t have 2 10 gauge black/white??

Secondly, do I need to do anything to the factory grounds in the car? Do I need to do anything to any ground in the car for this upgrade? I have received different answers. The grounds I have are fine, or do I need to change them? Which one(s)?

Thirdly, the wiring I am not using, for instance the 2 black/orange 10 gauge wires, do I just leave them connected at the back end. Do I remove ANYTHING physically out of the car?

I think I have this all ready to go. I cut the alt bracket last night, now just to do the wiring. Thanks again, Landon.

 

[biglg]

Do I do anything with my factory grounds? If yes, WHAT?

Secondly, I think I have this basically done, I am just waiting on my ANL style fuse holder to get here.

I do have one remaining questions. Does the single white wire I cut off the non used connector, does it actually just loop from the stator plug into the regulator plug? I pulled back some tape and it seems it actually comes out of the regulator plug. Is this correct? I want to make sure before I fire my car up. No one every mentioned it looped out of the regulator plug and then connect it to the 3G alt stator lone plug? Thanks and let me know asap.