Which Oil is the King of the Hill?

alot of people say amsoil and redline are great. i used castrol full syn in my last change, i think i may switch to one of those two next. it would be interesting to see what answers you get here.

Mobil1 0w20 is what I use in my 2k3 gt 5spd.

All out, go royal purple or red line (about = +/-)

But for everyday driving Mobil 1.

yea good question i was gonna ask the same. I heard mobil 1 is good. What is the best for supercharged applications?

amsoil

Caballo said:

Mobil1 0w20 is what I use in my 2k3 gt 5spd.

All out, go royal purple or red line (about = +/-)

But for everyday driving Mobil 1.

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Mobil 1 0W-20 gets my vote!

Amsoil has won all the independent tests I have seen.
-wade

PiranhaGT said:

whats the difference between the viscositys (0W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-50performance) and what is the best for driving in the summer and sometimes going to the track?

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I'd like to know this as well. And also, I'm going to be switching to synthetic in a week or so, do I need to do anything besides just switch it out? I know I can never go back after I go synthetic but thats all I know.

example: 0w-20

0= warmed up viscosity rating
w= "warmed up"
-20= cold or start up viscosity rating.

viscosity= how easily liquid flows. higher number means less flow potential/ more lubrication.

You need more lubrication at low temps/start up because of ring seal and emissions and friction. The faster the part moves the easier it needs to move. hence the lower warmed up rating. But if it's a HD part with a lot of friction or lubrication needs you need heavier weighted oil for example rear end gears,trannies, etc.

engine oil= 0w20/5w50
tranny/differential= 70w90/85w90(ish)

hope this helps

y cant you switch back? thats shady

conventional oils (non synthetics) have solvents in them. If you condition your engine with synthetics (after initial break in with convential oil) and then switch back you run the high risk of breaking down piston rings and bearings.

I think.

I use Penzoil Synthetic 5w-30 in my 01 GT Motor.

Mobil 1

I use 15/50 in my built 302 powered '65 and 0/20 in the '01. In fact I have used Mobil 1 in everything but differentials and lawn mowers for years, including motorcycle engines. RedLine is likely better but near double the price. I get huge miles out of engines I have built when I use Mobil 1 after break in. And yes, you can mix it with conventional oil in a pinch (with a loss in life of the oil itself) or go back to conventional oil if you want. Mobil 1 guarantees that. By the way, isn't 0w20 20 wt when hot instead of the other way around? That way it would still flow (at the 0 wt.) when it was really cold at startup and still have some weight (20 wt.) when hot. I don't know, just asking. I should know and will find out......

Mobil 1 0W-20 here

What should the oil change intervals be with the Mobil 1?

<-----Uses Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic

Caballo said:

example: 0w-20

0= warmed up viscosity rating
w= "warmed up"
-20= cold or start up viscosity rating.

viscosity= how easily liquid flows. higher number means less flow potential/ more lubrication.

You need more lubrication at low temps/start up because of ring seal and emissions and friction. The faster the part moves the easier it needs to move. hence the lower warmed up rating. But if it's a HD part with a lot of friction or lubrication needs you need heavier weighted oil for example rear end gears,trannies, etc.

engine oil= 0w20/5w50
tranny/differential= 70w90/85w90(ish)

hope this helps

Click to expand...

This is incorrect; the "w" actually indicates the oil meets viscocity standards to be used at 0 degrees F and thus qualifies as a "winter" oil. The first number is a measure of the viscocity of the oil at 0 deg. F. The latter number tells you how much the oil will thin. For example, a 5W-20 oil tells us that at 0 degrees, the oil has a vicocity rating of "5" and that at 212 deg F, the oil will not thin any more than what a 20 weight oil would thin at this temperature. Thus, a 0W-30 will flow even better at 0 degrees than the 5W-20, and it will not thin as much at higher operating temps as the 5W-30 oil.

See this link for a better explanation: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/frame.../automotive/auto_technology/2002/8/motor_oil/

I run 5W-30 Mobil One synth in my car. Ford calls for 5W-20. This means that at full operating temperatures, my oil is slightly thicker than what the manufacturer recommends. Honestly, I'm not sure this is really what I should be doing either. If there are any lubrication points in the engine that could suffer from oil starvation from running a slightly thicker oil (thicker when at operating temps), then I guess I shouldn't be running the 5W-30. However, I'm going to guess that there isn't TOO much of a difference between the two oils (5W-30 and 5W-20) and since many, many folks run 5W-30, I doubt it's something I need to be concerned about. I would guess there is a marginal fuel mileage gain by using the 5W20 instead of the 5W30 that was recommended in the very same engine the year before. Multiply that per car marginal fuel mileage improvement across all the mustang V8s that they sell, and I'm sure it helps Ford's CAFE numbers more than just an immaterial amount.

Now, I'm asking myself - "Why do some folks run oils like '10W-50' in their relatively stock motors? Seems the 10W would be fine in the summer or warmer climates, but when that oil is heating up to operating temps, you are definintely running a thicker oil than what is recommended by Ford. I wonder if there's a more of a chance for oil starvation vs. the 5W-30 oil I'm using? Or is it an immaterial differnence - kind of like I'm assuming the 5w-20 vs. 5w-30 is immaterial????

Interesting. . .

Valvoline 5w-20 . Synthetics

Mobile 1 and Amsoil are some of the best. Royal Purple is the Devil. I think the Royal Purple's formulator has a medulaoblongatta problem.