Looking for Idea/advice on build

I think his resistance to the 351 is hood clearance with the blower. I am confused a little as to how you took my last comments. I meant no stock crank in a dart block. No aftermarket crank in a stock block. Let you blower do the work in the stocker. Strokers actually make it harder on the block in high hp/tq situations.
 
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I think his resistance to the 351 is hood clearance with the blower. I am confused a little as to how you took my last comments. I meant no stock crank in a dart block. No aftermarket crank in a stock block. Let you blower do the work in the stocker. Strokers actually make it harder on the block in high hp/tq situations.
my intake is custom... so its impossible to make it work on a 351 i think..
If i use a stock block I want to use at least a set of forged rods.
 
I kinda agree with mike on the blower thing, but the fact that you put soooo much time into this thing and want to use it says 'put together another 5.0 with good parts, nothing fancy or costly, no girdles or bras, they ain't gonna help when the block splits, just more stuff to pickup with a shovel when it pukes the guts out, stuff it in franky and enjoy the ride'.
you know the limit that your at, your not going to build a bigger blower to swap because your block is at its limit and you would have to design another intake,
You will be able to set fire to the tires pretty much anytime you want, move out into traffic with the ability to invoke envy upon the hordes of working class people as you motor by with your soft top down, wearing your pretentious hat and your finger in the air.
All this figures you use the dart/boss block money to put some brakes on franky, he's gonna need them
Know the limits, drive it accordingly.
Its "you're ".
 
I am planning on making this the last rebuild.... with a monster 500hp engine the trans wont hold the brakes will be insufficient and the car will be extra scary and need a cage...... What i want to accomplish is a bulletproof over built engine in the 400-450hp range...
If i use a stock block and just upgrade the rods, i can afford heads.... If i do that i can pulley the blower down from 12psi to around 8psi and still make more power more efficiently. This would fall within the 2200 budget i have and meet my power goals.

Thoughts???
 
I am planning on making this the last rebuild.... with a monster 500hp engine the trans wont hold the brakes will be insufficient and the car will be extra scary and need a cage...... What i want to accomplish is a bulletproof over built engine in the 400-450hp range...
If i use a stock block and just upgrade the rods, i can afford heads.... If i do that i can pulley the blower down from 12psi to around 8psi and still make more power more efficiently. This would fall within the 2200 budget i have and meet my power goals.

Thoughts???
Now you Know good and well that nobody here that has boost stays at the boost level that makes sense. Sooner or later 8 psi will become boring and you ( like everybody else) bumps up the power until sht breaks
 
Now you Know good and well that nobody here that has boost stays at the boost level that makes sense. Sooner or later 8 psi will become boring and you ( like everybody else) bumps up the power until sht breaks
The blower has a limit of around 14psi max on a 302 based engine before the 6rib belt i run has a slipping issue... on a 347 its 8-10 psi max ect. ect....

Knowing what i want to do, help me pick the parts. A 393 will put me into the blower is too small range for displacement due to limitations of pulley size. Like only 4psi.... so that idea has little merrit.

I will know tonight if i have a 3.4" crank and 5.4" rods for free. Hell i could have a set of pistons for free as well [ JE forged ] but they are 12:1 pistons and no good for street use
 
I don't know, man. It seems like you've narrowed it to a 302 with rods or a stroked dart block. The difference is time and money, and that's it. You have to decide. If you want to spend the time and money on it, go with the dart. If you want more flexibility, to get it back on the road, and to leave yourself more flexible in the future, and to have the option of making that power indefinitely at a mere fraction of the cost, then go with the stocker. It's not 'overbuilt' at 450rwhp, but it's just about right. That's my vote, but if your mind it made up on "overbuilt," then you have the answer. The stocker is not... it 'might' fail, but fixing the failure is cheap and easy.

Regarding pulley size, aren't we talking about a positive displacement blower? So, same pulley size = lower boost and same amount of air, which = more hp, because it comes in at a lower temperature with denser air. I don't see the issue, and you're talking about a 347, anyways. So a 351 is not ruled out by the displacement argument.
 
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I don't know, man. It seems like you've narrowed it to a 302 with rods or a stroked dart block. The difference is time and money, and that's it. You have to decide. If you want to spend the time and money on it, go with the dart. If you want more flexibility, to get it back on the road, and to leave yourself more flexible in the future, and to have the option of making that power indefinitely at a mere fraction of the cost, then go with the stocker. It's not 'overbuilt' at 450rwhp, but it's just about right. That's my vote, but if your mind it made up on "overbuilt," then you have the answer. The stocker is not... it 'might' fail, but fixing the failure is cheap and easy.

Regarding pulley size, aren't we talking about a positive displacement blower? So, same pulley size = lower boost and same amount of air, which = more hp, because it comes in at a lower temperature with denser air. I don't see the issue, and you're talking about a 347, anyways. So a 351 is not ruled out by the displacement argument.
The displacement was if i saved money by reusing my pistons... I could build a 393 with a 9.5" deck
 
IMO a DSS race prepped block isn't any stronger than any other stock 302 block, waste of money.
I am by no means a master engine builder but I made the same suggestion as Mike earlier in the thread.
Going to make one more pitch for a budget 393w build, my build iirc went something like this:
1969 block purchased from my machinist with machine work, bore, line hone etc.-$1000
Full Scat rotating assembly, I-beam rods, forged SRP pistons-$700
Bullet cam new from classifieds-$250
RHS heads FTI prepped second hand-$1000
Victor EFI upper/lower second hand-$400
That's the major stuff, obviously not everything, but it sounds like you're going to reuse some of your current parts, heads, pistons, etc. to save $
I did all the assembly/work aside from machining with the help of a buddy, you obviously have the skills to do the same.
I was coming from a stock block 302 supercharged with 4 different set-ups and wanted to build something that could get me in
the 450hp range n/a without breaking the bank.
My car isn't a track killer, just a street cruiser but this little budget 393w is a blast to drive, thanks to your help in
the tuning department.
 
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So its either go for broke with a dart build, abandon the blower with a 393 [or cobble with a set of rails for the intake], or take mine apart send it off to have it all fixed with new rods and let it eat.
The last option leaves me with money to spend elsewhere. I am not opposed to that idea. :chin
 
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69 351 block a stronger casting from what I've read.
2 piece rear main seal , but I believe it can be converted to 1 piece,
I stayed 2 piece and staggered the seal, no leaks.
Also deck height that year is 9.48 iirc, keep in mind if your having the
deck milled.
On my 393w w/69 milled block pistons were .008 out of the hole,
no issues.