Looking for Idea/advice on build

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My brother lives in Fort Myers....had him pick up the other one...thanks for the lead.









Just kidding, Steve. Can't wait to see pics of that thing. I wonder how they set it up for reverse rotation. Wonder if it would make all forward gears reverse. Would love to do that to a fox and race someone in reverse. Lol....
 
When two engines are in a large boat, one has to drive reverse rotation props to counter the torque thrust from the one propeller.
The Army helicopter ( Chinook) works the same way. Those two giant propellers are spinning opposite directions so tha the thing won't just spin around like a top.
 
When two engines are in a large boat, one has to drive reverse rotation props to counter the torque thrust from the one propeller.
The Army helicopter ( Chinook) works the same way. Those two giant propellers are spinning opposite directions so tha the thing won't just spin around like a top.
When you point out to a pilot or crew-chief that a Chinook is leaking, they tell you that's a good thing. That's how you know it has hydraulic fluid. It's the ones that don't leak that you gotta look out for. Kinda like SBF rear main seals. :D

I've been damn near 90* 50 feet off of the ground in a botched air-assault insertion in Iraq in one of those birds. I've also ridden them through sand storms so hairy that it took British versions with some kind of radar flight instrument because they couldn't see 20 ft in front of the aircraft. Love those birds.. Plus, they're the fastest birds in the army, believe it or not.
 
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I think it's all just the cam.... we will see once I have it home.
Now what to do... cast pistons.... bleh.....

Also to use my heads I think they would need to be drilled out to 1/2... that means my head studs are useless as well.... ah the snowball...
 
I think it's all just the cam.... we will see once I have it home.
Now what to do... cast pistons.... bleh.....

Also to use my heads I think they would need to be drilled out to 1/2... that means my head studs are useless as well.... ah the snowball...

You may want to do some homework now that the forward rotation piece is gone....
It would have to be more than that ( although if the crank in that engine is indeed better than the nodular iron crank that's normally in a 69 engine, an already decent crank, it will be a shame if that is different too).
If that engine was engineered to spin backwards from the factory, the crank counterweights should be different. The orientation of the counterweights should be a mirror image of a normal rotation piece. Meaning that they aren't just spinning a normal crank backwards.....where the flat backside of the counterweight would be leading instead of the tapered edge.
The oil pump spins backwards...wondering about that too. From what I'm reading, the pistons may be different, but that is moot considering that they are probably cast junk anyway.

If the crank is normal, you'll have a potentionally machined block, timing chain, crank and stock rods, with stock 1.84I/1.57e heads. Which are crap as well. They may be GT40's, but there may also be a needle in that haystack.
If you are getting an additional engine as a rebuild able core, then I say go for it. A JY engine out of an F150 would be less than the 500.00 you would be spending on this one (potentially), but it would have however many miles on it, and still be stock stuff needing replacement.

Stock rods are 5.956" long. They are used in a 393 combo. Given that they would need new bolts, and resizing after that, I'd throw them away, and buy the 325.00 I beams I was talking about several replays back. So, now you have (2) blocks, (2) cranks, (one, or both may be different from the car version)
 
You may want to do some homework now that the forward rotation piece is gone....
It would have to be more than that ( although if the crank in that engine is indeed better than the nodular iron crank that's normally in a 69 engine, an already decent crank, it will be a shame if that is different too).
If that engine was engineered to spin backwards from the factory, the crank counterweights should be different. The orientation of the counterweights should be a mirror image of a normal rotation piece. Meaning that they aren't just spinning a normal crank backwards.....where the flat backside of the counterweight would be leading instead of the tapered edge.
The oil pump spins backwards...wondering about that too. From what I'm reading, the pistons may be different, but that is moot considering that they are probably cast junk anyway.

If the crank is normal, you'll have a potentionally machined block, timing chain, crank and stock rods, with stock 1.84I/1.57e heads. Which are crap as well. They may be GT40's, but there may also be a needle in that haystack.
If you are getting an additional engine as a rebuild able core, then I say go for it. A JY engine out of an F150 would be less than the 500.00 you would be spending on this one (potentially), but it would have however many miles on it, and still be stock stuff needing replacement.

Stock rods are 5.956" long. They are used in a 393 combo. Given that they would need new bolts, and resizing after that, I'd throw them away, and buy the 325.00 I beams I was talking about several replays back. So, now you have (2) blocks, (2) cranks, (one, or both may be different from the car version)
Agreed, from my research the crank is cut differently for the oiling system but the distributor ect spins normal rotation somehow.
Marine 351w apparently came with a hd marine engine rod.... we will see once I have them.
Again budget build, I have some options... if nothing else a cheap 393 with my cam some link lifters if needed (may be roller from the pics) and whatever efi intake i can find will make my power goal a reality.
 
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Talked to Brian Freezy about the cam, he says it will work but act like it's around 8* smaller in duration....
So my 224/236 will act like a 216/228 cam in the 393...
He said it should drive "very well" on the street
 
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Looks like there is, but it take a "small base circle" cam to retrofit: http://www.compperformancegroupstor...tore_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=31-1000

That just looks like what you could pull out of your current block. Not sure what the retrofit cam with a small base circle is, but maybe one of the other guys could chime in on whether that's what we use in the HO blocks. Getting another cam probably defeats the purpose of saving some dough and using your custom cam.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...419311-351w-non-roller-roller-conversion.html

So, I take it that's a no on the 2JZ swap. You don't know what you're missing:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Xtr-BiQK0E

And yeah, I'm j/k... unless you're gonna do it ;)
 
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