2Blue2's 1977 Cobra2 Driveway Build

try it with an rebuild kit for the existing rack
Will that fix the clunking inside?



The two hard lines not on a replacement rack are thrashed, Hell ,there all thrashed.
The two on holder are bent twisted almost shut
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Did I say, that someone had installed in my MustangII a turn signal flasher from a citroen?
I removed it and had a closer look to all the printings on the outside...
IT SAYS:
WARNING
MADE IN FRANCE

This is no joke. It's on my desk at work, beacause I have french colleagues... Sadly I will not be able to make pictures in the next time, because I still should work from home.

Found a picture online, you can guess whats written...
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Will that fix the clunking inside?



The two hard lines not on a replacement rack are thrashed, Hell ,there all thrashed.
The two on holder are bent twisted almost shut
+2Av63jKSwiTB8pP3q1xUw.jpg cPRiN+pjQqevvgGn8SyIww.jpg
Well... your right.
Does someone know if a fox steering pump will fit the existing MustangII bracket? it nearly looks like on pictures. Then you could use pump, hoses and rack from a fox and get all of this for the price of mustang II power steering rack...
Or you use your pump, get some hoses made (or try replacement for Mustang II) and use a fox steering rack...
 
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I picked up a Cardone reman pump from Summit and it's quiet as a mouse. Even when empty! Don't ask. lol

I have a 89 Marquis pump in the coupe and other then a leaky rack and patched lines it worked fine. May be too much boost but have not driven it far or fast enough to determine yet.
 
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So new one in mail. swapping stuff over.


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This end goes into red port and looks to be fine with just new o ring
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This end (lower end) looks to get replaced by regular flair on new rack (yellow port) but same thread pitch count.
The upper end is frozen to hard line thus the bent up flattening of this line over the years that occurred.
So I'm making one new line up to replace this.

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So is this not fully crimped double flair (line I made) going to get along with new line (still in plastic bag) or does there need to be an insert between them ?
Or what am I missing here? Wrong fitting? Just doesn't feel right. Thats the old fitting on the new line.
Help please.

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I used an actual fitting on the transmission lines. It had nipples inside and both lines had the same flare. Would it be easier to get new lines? I've bought two sets over the past year for under $100.

Edit: Union is what I used.
 
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So is this not fully crimped double flair (line I made) going to get along with new line (still in plastic bag) or does there need to be an insert between them ?
Or what am I missing here? Wrong fitting? Just doesn't feel right. Thats the old fitting on the new line.
Help please.

nhomaMBdSvCrd6KNPcQ+2A.jpg rYhDH9UUSSq0QxMtMi6cWw.jpg

If I had to guess, you're going to need a union to mate those 2 lines.

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Which line are you working on? Rockauto shows them both in stock and the third line is has no fittings. I have all 3 sitting on my new parts table still in bags. They were delivered last week for the coupe. I also put new ones in the t top car last spring.

Return Eddelman 91885
Pressure Eddelman 71020

Sunsong and Gates have part numbers for us too. One of the lines on the t top are from Sunsong. It fit fine.
 
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See if you can get a new line otherwise try what Ragged said. There is a hydraulic shop somewhere near you. Anywhere with garbage trucks, heavy equipment, hell even a boat repair place needs lines made. A/C shop can frequently make lines. The shop near me has no indication what they do by name or building. Call an excavation company. They will know who makes hydraulic lines.
 
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Then i need a different fitting on the line because right now one screws into the other
Yep. Unless you're able to find or order replacements. But if I'm being honest, I'd go for the union and re-flare the one with the wrong coupling nut with a correct nut. I wouldn't think that that option would cost more than a few bucks compared to buying new lines.
 
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Are there not any Napa’s
Went Napa (usually best choice out here) first. That guy broke out the paper books and spent 20 min thumbing pages before giving up and then telling me to go to the hydraulic shop.



Which line are you working on?
Working on the 'power steering outlet tube'



and re-flare the one with the wrong coupling nut
best price choice for sure

I've already bought the other two lines new. Returnline not a problem.


I've been to all four auto part stores round here and there pitiful as always.
Tomorrow I go down town to the Hydraulic store.
Last two times I've been there they have overcharged me and acted like my small dollar purchase was a annoyance to them.
but bite the bullet again.

Getting parts out here is miserable, thats why I am so grateful to Enzio for his help last month.

Thanks guys I appreciate the input.:);)
 
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Cleaned front crossmember till paint was going away and hit em with new coat Rustoleum.



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Hydraulic shop was useless and wouldn't let me in door, said I had to get an appointment. Something about 'Co-Vuck19yourself'

So made line myself reusing old fitting and got after installing the new rack.
Home made fit nice and is the line with the tag. Hope it don't leak.:cautious::O_o::rolleyes:

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Got one of these PS filters to go in return line.
Installed at the high part of the line so not to much leaking during servicing.
Now I just got to put cross member back in, reinstall motor mount bolts, and buy some PS Fluid.


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To bleed system there talking about;
turning lock to lock 10x
Using starter to turn pump over with coil disconnected.
Turn lock to lock 10x more
then vacuum air from system
10x more turns
All before putting wheels on the ground.

Does that sound right?

I think I can do that with my hand held vac pump and a cork from my booze bottle ( better drink em first just to be sure.)
 
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