2Blue2's 1977 Cobra2 Driveway Build
- Thread starter 2Blue2
- Start date
Second ordered PS pump is here!
So out of the car with the old and tear it apart.
Clean everything up good.
Housing Before + After
So out of the car with the old and tear it apart.
Clean everything up good.
Housing Before + After
Pulley Puller in action.
Significant part numbers
Pully 5Z-AIA, Motor Bracket Has an an actual D7Z number; D7ZA-?C-511-AA
The pump bracket only had a S on it. Pump Back together and on to spray painting.
As soon as it is dry.....
Significant part numbers
Pully 5Z-AIA, Motor Bracket Has an an actual D7Z number; D7ZA-?C-511-AA
The pump bracket only had a S on it. Pump Back together and on to spray painting.
As soon as it is dry.....
This new pump is supposed to have the 'Slipper Internals' upgrade.
Not sure what that means but it sounds good.
Old pump you can feel the notchy ratcheting semi frozen bearing when turning by hand
Best part is i get to keep the old parts number tag on the back of pump (but can't find the picture of it now.)
Not sure what that means but it sounds good.
Old pump you can feel the notchy ratcheting semi frozen bearing when turning by hand
Best part is i get to keep the old parts number tag on the back of pump (but can't find the picture of it now.)
Frist drive went good
No more front passenger tire clacking at slow speeds.
Seems smooth as can be.
Second drive was to alignment shop.
Waiting her turn and on the Rack! Note Red Lasers( had to shoot multiple pics to get em while firing)
Alignment Tech said he couldn't align it cuze the steering wasn't centered.
He looked to be 20 yrs old. I said it should be easy toe adjustment and not to worry about steering wheel.
But he wouldn't.
So on the second trip to alignment shop, same machine different guy, he says no problem and was done in 15 min after starting.
What occurred was;
Old rack was 3.5 turns Lock to Lock,
New rack is 3 turns Lock to Lock.
It clocks the D-shaft to a different location than stock. Took it home and with a quick adjustment with the steering wheel puller,
All good except now it rubs on rim at full Left lock.
Got to jack em up and grind offending metal out of the way
No more front passenger tire clacking at slow speeds.
Seems smooth as can be.
Second drive was to alignment shop.
Waiting her turn and on the Rack! Note Red Lasers( had to shoot multiple pics to get em while firing)
Alignment Tech said he couldn't align it cuze the steering wasn't centered.
He looked to be 20 yrs old. I said it should be easy toe adjustment and not to worry about steering wheel.
But he wouldn't.
So on the second trip to alignment shop, same machine different guy, he says no problem and was done in 15 min after starting.
What occurred was;
Old rack was 3.5 turns Lock to Lock,
New rack is 3 turns Lock to Lock.
It clocks the D-shaft to a different location than stock. Took it home and with a quick adjustment with the steering wheel puller,
All good except now it rubs on rim at full Left lock.
Got to jack em up and grind offending metal out of the way
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I cant remember the first time I appreciated a good mechanic with experience,
but I did yesterday for sure.
but I did yesterday for sure.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
My crystal ball tells me, that it is the upper control arm.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Yo Extra_Stout (Love that name)
Heres the papers from both recent trips to Alignment shop
First one don't count(before measurement only) as they didn't align it.
Second was only a toe adjustment .
Hope this helps some.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Are you happy with the handling?
I'm wondering a bit, that you have 1° difference in caster from left to right. Does the car pull to one side, when braking?
What is good on your setup, is that you are near zero regarding camber. I checked the shop manual and it says that camber should be more like 1° positive. Not sure why, but it seems that this is related to the tires that where use back than. My research (and experience on my 66 coupe) is that more like -0.5° to -1° camber is suitable for modern tires, if handling is more important than wear.
I found a post from Alcino (seems he knows what he is doing), where he says he is running -1.5° camber and +4° caster.
I want to do the alignment in the next days/weeks and I'm not 100% sure what I want to setup initial.
At the moment the left front tire has -1° camber and it looks nice. So I think at the moment I will target for -1° camber and +3° of caster.
If any one has ideas to that, please let me know
I'm wondering a bit, that you have 1° difference in caster from left to right. Does the car pull to one side, when braking?
What is good on your setup, is that you are near zero regarding camber. I checked the shop manual and it says that camber should be more like 1° positive. Not sure why, but it seems that this is related to the tires that where use back than. My research (and experience on my 66 coupe) is that more like -0.5° to -1° camber is suitable for modern tires, if handling is more important than wear.
I found a post from Alcino (seems he knows what he is doing), where he says he is running -1.5° camber and +4° caster.
I want to do the alignment in the next days/weeks and I'm not 100% sure what I want to setup initial.
At the moment the left front tire has -1° camber and it looks nice. So I think at the moment I will target for -1° camber and +3° of caster.
If any one has ideas to that, please let me know
extra_stout
5 Year Member
I did another round of google fu and it seems that since I was looking for info about the suspension there was an article on Mustang II suspension setup:
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018...-front-suspension-to-be-performance-friendly/
Seems that I'm on the right direction. But lets see if my adjustment slots are elongated enough to get targeted camber AND caster.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018...-front-suspension-to-be-performance-friendly/
Seems that I'm on the right direction. But lets see if my adjustment slots are elongated enough to get targeted camber AND caster.
Haven't really had a chance to wring it out yet.
I think that will be a fine place to start.
Caster +3* to +7*
Camber -1.5*
Toe 1/8 in
These are pretty standard suggestions for hot rod settings, but depends on suspension type, use, etc.
Side note;
Some old straight axles actually call for some positive camber and toe out to avoid Death Wobble,
and to have bias tires track down the crown of the road good.
Hey buddy, like this.
Drivers side control arm front edge.
Wheel rubbed a spot...........................................................Ground square corner to a taper and masked it up for spray paint.
Hope it is enough to solve problem.
Wheel rub marks on the 14 x 7 American Racing Outlaw II.
Didn't we do this once already?
Guess I didn't do both sides...
Ready for a real test drive but its raining now.
Guess I didn't do both sides...
Ready for a real test drive but its raining now.
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extra_stout
5 Year Member
