Progress Thread 1989 LX 5.0 convertible - mild project
- Thread starter Scott_S
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I'd say the pump/sending unit is leaking at the O ring on top.
If the tank has not been pulled I'd use up the gas as much as I can, in the mean time get a couple O rings for the pump/sender hanger to tank and the grommet for the filler pipe, you'll see why when you drop the tank.
The less gas in the tank the easier it is to deal with the tank.
If the tank has not been pulled I'd use up the gas as much as I can, in the mean time get a couple O rings for the pump/sender hanger to tank and the grommet for the filler pipe, you'll see why when you drop the tank.
The less gas in the tank the easier it is to deal with the tank.
Four things come to mind. The fuel sending unit gasket, the fuel pump hanger gasket, the tank vent gasket, and/or the filler neck grommet.
This is a pic from Mustang5L5’s car and you can see all four item I am referring to. Furthest one to the back is the fuel sending unit, one with the red plug is the fuel pump, white one is the vent, and black one on the side closest in the picture is the fuel neck grommet.
This is a pic from Mustang5L5’s car and you can see all four item I am referring to. Furthest one to the back is the fuel sending unit, one with the red plug is the fuel pump, white one is the vent, and black one on the side closest in the picture is the fuel neck grommet.
Well he still didn't paint his vent, tragedy.....really....Four things come to mind. The fuel sending unit gasket, the fuel pump hanger gasket, the tank vent gasket, and/or the filler neck grommet.
This is a pic from Mustang5L5’s car and you can see all four item I am referring to. Furthest one to the back is the fuel sending unit, one with the red plug is the fuel pump, white one is the vent, and black one on the side closest in the picture is the fuel neck grommet.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
When I bought my car and did my first fill up, I had gas pouring out on my driveway. I took it to a shop and they said every orafice on top of the tank was leaking so they replaced all the gaskets. If yours has been sitting I’m sure some of those have dried out.
I'll definitely keep an eye on it. It seems to have stopped, for now.
Where is the tank vent routed to?
Four things come to mind. The fuel sending unit gasket, the fuel pump hanger gasket, the tank vent gasket, and/or the filler neck grommet.
This is a pic from Mustang5L5’s car and you can see all four item I am referring to. Furthest one to the back is the fuel sending unit, one with the red plug is the fuel pump, white one is the vent, and black one on the side closest in the picture is the fuel neck grommet.
Where is the tank vent routed to?
The heads and cam in this car are a mystery to me.
Other than the aluminum heads, it has BBK shorty headers and 70mm throttle body, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, de-cat, H pipe and unknown mufflers.
I'm working on baselining it and will be changing all fluids, etc.
I've been watching the base idle reset videos and feel like that's something I can do at home.
With the bigger than stock cam, do you think 14 degrees BTDC is a good starting point? With a lumpy cam, what's a good idle RPM I should shoot for? Somewhere around 750-825 or so?
Other than the aluminum heads, it has BBK shorty headers and 70mm throttle body, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, de-cat, H pipe and unknown mufflers.
I'm working on baselining it and will be changing all fluids, etc.
I've been watching the base idle reset videos and feel like that's something I can do at home.
With the bigger than stock cam, do you think 14 degrees BTDC is a good starting point? With a lumpy cam, what's a good idle RPM I should shoot for? Somewhere around 750-825 or so?
It goes to the charcoal canister at the front of the car. It is mounted on the passenger side on the inside of the front frame rail. Not my car but found this pic on a Google search. Mine is relocated due to the ABS pump.
I've had the car with a local Foxbody guy who did the top on my buddies Fox. He's almost done swapping out the quarter window motors and top cylinders. The motors failed shortly after I got the car home. The cylinders worked fine, bug showed signs of weeping. No better time to fix them, right?
He's also snugging up the top and making a few fine adjustments. I also replaced some rubber while he's in there.
I also found these rear speakers, crammed in there and hold on with one screw. I bet that rattled like crazy!
Next stop is the stereo shop, so I can reinstall the interior, shifter, console, etc.
He's also snugging up the top and making a few fine adjustments. I also replaced some rubber while he's in there.
I also found these rear speakers, crammed in there and hold on with one screw. I bet that rattled like crazy!
Next stop is the stereo shop, so I can reinstall the interior, shifter, console, etc.
Last edited:
Stang337
Member
Oops, not sure what happened to post
Did you ever replace the top hose and get the plastic covering? When I replaced my hoses last year for my 89, I bought only Motorcraft hoses as they were a perfect fit vs. buying Gates or others from the parts store. I took back all hoses from the parts store! Motorcraft upper hose came with a new plastic cover.
Did you ever replace the top hose and get the plastic covering? When I replaced my hoses last year for my 89, I bought only Motorcraft hoses as they were a perfect fit vs. buying Gates or others from the parts store. I took back all hoses from the parts store! Motorcraft upper hose came with a new plastic cover.
Not yet.
The first order of business was to get the quarter windows working so I could drive it and not fear the weather. Ended up replacing the weeping lift cylinders and some rubber bits while we are in there.
The first order of business was to get the quarter windows working so I could drive it and not fear the weather. Ended up replacing the weeping lift cylinders and some rubber bits while we are in there.
Stang337
Member
BTW- If you drop the tank to install new o-rings for any of the top mounted parts, be sure to check the fuel pump S hose. If you look at my post about my car issues, you'll see what E85 (Ethanol) in our gas does to the S hose. Also look to see if prior owners upgraded the pump, since you have other engine upgrades. Also change the fuel filler neck grommet if you do drop it, $15 from LMR and check the Fuel Pump Bracket Internal Return Cap and Clamp if you pull the fuel pump, as LMR is the only place I found that has it for only $8
Clutch question: I have reason to think that my clutch cable is stretched or at the end of it's adjustment.
The transmission shifts fine going up through the gears, never grinds, doesn't pop out of gear, etc. However, going DOWN from 3rd to 2nd, it's sometimes hard to find 2nd gear. Again, no grinding or anything, just tough to find.
The car has an adjustable cable and quadrant on it. The pedal doesn't have much free play at rest. The firewall adjuster seems to be out rather far, about 7/8". In the LMR video, they show it screwed almost all the way in.
Is there an adjustment at the transmission that might help? Does anything sound like a simple "out of adjustment" problem?
Lastly, if the cable IS stretched, is there a preferred cable; 5.0Resto, Steeda, Ford Performance?
The transmission shifts fine going up through the gears, never grinds, doesn't pop out of gear, etc. However, going DOWN from 3rd to 2nd, it's sometimes hard to find 2nd gear. Again, no grinding or anything, just tough to find.
The car has an adjustable cable and quadrant on it. The pedal doesn't have much free play at rest. The firewall adjuster seems to be out rather far, about 7/8". In the LMR video, they show it screwed almost all the way in.
Is there an adjustment at the transmission that might help? Does anything sound like a simple "out of adjustment" problem?
Lastly, if the cable IS stretched, is there a preferred cable; 5.0Resto, Steeda, Ford Performance?
I run a Steeda adjustable cable on both cars and they are really good IMO. Do you know if the cable currently in the car is adjustable down at the clutch fork?
I am assuming it is, because I have the quadrant and firewall adjuster. Doesn't that mean you have an adjustable cable? Is it possible it's just not adjusted correctly?
OK, so educate me here.
On one of the Facebook groups, someone shared this:
It looks like my cable is on the hook farthest away from the firewall. I haven't checked the end at the clutch arm yet. I'll probably have to get it checked when it's at the shop, on a lift.
I don't know what kind of cable I have but I am assuming it's adjustable. The quadrant and adjuster look just like this kit:
IF the cable is adjustable, and since I have a firewall adjuster, should I change the attachment point on the quadrant?
Or, should I start with just a baseline re-adjust: screw adjuster all the way in, adjust cable at the clutch, fine tune at the firewall and leave the quadrant alone?
On one of the Facebook groups, someone shared this:
It looks like my cable is on the hook farthest away from the firewall. I haven't checked the end at the clutch arm yet. I'll probably have to get it checked when it's at the shop, on a lift.
I don't know what kind of cable I have but I am assuming it's adjustable. The quadrant and adjuster look just like this kit:
IF the cable is adjustable, and since I have a firewall adjuster, should I change the attachment point on the quadrant?
Or, should I start with just a baseline re-adjust: screw adjuster all the way in, adjust cable at the clutch, fine tune at the firewall and leave the quadrant alone?
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