1989 wont start after motor swap

jrichker · Apr 18, 2019

Check the fuel pressure...

Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 38-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

Fuel pump pressure test
Disconnect the larger of the two fuel lines up by the Schrader valve. It is the return line and does not have the Schrader valve on it. Find a piece of rubber fuel hose and clamp it on the return line coming from the regulator. Stick a bolt in the other end of the hose and make sure that all your connections are tight and leak proof as possible. When this powers up, you don't want fuel squirting everywhere. Hook up the fuel pressure test gauge. Turn the ignition switch on and watch for leaks. You may want to use a helper inside the car to cut the switch off quickly if you have a leak. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.

Caution!!! You have blocked the return line for the fuel pump! Pressure will rise very quickly past safe levels with a good pump
If the pressure goes up past 55 PSI, the pump is good and the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the fuel pressure does not hit 55 PSI or more in a few seconds, the pump is bad or you have electrical problems.

jakeklein89 · Apr 19, 2019

okay so now i have replaced the fuel filter and fuel regulator and double checked injector harnesses were all pluuged in and for about 5 minuets everything was perfect reved right up sounded good but by the time i got around my neighborhood it wouldnt rev past 2500 trying to leave the neighborhood whats goung on ? it has to be fuel related

jakeklein89 · Apr 19, 2019

I replaced the fuel regulator and a fuel filter and for about five minutes everything was perfect I drove around the neighborhood and went to pull out on the road and it did it again pulled back in the driveway tried to rabbit still stuck at 2500 RPM

General karthief · Apr 19, 2019

Checked fuel pressure?
is the throttle blades closing?

jakeklein89 · Apr 19, 2019

General karthief said:
Checked fuel pressure?
is the throttle blades closing?

havent rented another checker yet and what do you mean throttle blades closing ?

General karthief · Apr 19, 2019

The throttle cable may be sticking and holding the throttle body blade open a little

jakeklein89 · Apr 19, 2019

General karthief said:
The throttle cable may be sticking and holding the throttle body blade open a little

OK I spliced and injector harness on because my number for had all broken clips and I thought that that might be contributing to it and I did it again I revved good but as soon as it gets warm it Like hesitates and jolts forward

jakeklein89 · Apr 19, 2019

jakeklein89 said:
OK I spliced and injector harness on because my number for had all broken clips and I thought that that might be contributing to it and I did it again I revved good but as soon as it gets warm it Like hesitates and jolts forward

when im driving and when parked it just like jumps arohnd 2500 and wont go past

General karthief · Apr 19, 2019

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
Go through this checklist one step at a time, don't skip around, even if you have already done something, check it anyway.

jakeklein89 · Apr 21, 2019

General karthief said:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
Go through this checklist one step at a time, don't skip around, even if you have already done something, check it anyway.

would this cause the lack of power and not allowing it to go past 2500??

jakeklein89 · Apr 21, 2019

General karthief said:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
Go through this checklist one step at a time, don't skip around, even if you have already done something, check it anyway.

it only does this as soon as its hot

Mstng93SSP · Apr 22, 2019

You asked earlier about how to set your timing. I think your timing is off. Depending on the type of timing light you have would determine how you set it. If you have a light that has an adjustable dial on it you set the dial on the light to your desired timing (10, 11, 12 etc.) and you loosen the distributor hold down bolt. With the engine running and the spout out you turn the distributor until the timing mark lights up at ZERO on the balancer. If you don't have a timing light with a dial, and it's just a basic light then you turn the distributor until the timing mark on the balancer is lighting up at 10 or 11 or 12 degrees btc.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc

jrichker · Apr 22, 2019

High speed miss on a warm engine

Revised 7 Nov-2016 to add PIP sensor as possible problem and dumping the codes to help determine if it is the TFI or PIP.

The TFI module mounted on the distributor is one of the culprits for a high speed miss on a warm engine. The other suspect is the PIP sensor inside the distributor. If the problem does not occur when the engine is cold, the TFI module or PIP is definitely suspect. Dumping the codes may help determine which one it is. You may need a special socket to remove the TFI module, but most auto parts stores will have one for $5-$7.

It is not uncommon that the replacement parts may be defective; TFI modules made by non Ford manufactures seem to have a high failure rate. If the part was purchased with warranty, take it back to where you bought and exchange it for a Motorcraft part.

Be sure to use plenty of the heat sink grease on the new TFI and clean the old grease off the distributor.

See Automotive Tools Specialty | Auto Mechanic & Technician Diagnostic, Testing Equipment | Thexton

diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2Birds

JosTee · May 18, 2019

focus on not have a spark. Is there voltage on the coil when your keyswitch is"on "?.At this moment i dont recall the number/ connection on the coil but one side is feeding voltage of /from keyswitch, top goes to distributor other one is from ignition module.Sounds maybe stupid to repeat this but you must have a spark when you crank the engine.If there is voltage on the coil the lead that goes to distributor disconnect it from dist. and hold it aproxx 4 mm of the engine b-isolated- and let somebody else crank the engine . See if there is a spark. There must be plenty story's in eg. haynes motorbooks to get step by step through this kind of problems.Just start again from the beginning. I suppose you do have a voltmeter or even a bulb to check if there is voltage on the places were they should suppose to be.In my case in the past the switch in the steering colum was bad and when you took the car in a turn sometimes the engine stalls. The truth is bigger/stranger then your imagination sometimes( nature / the car fools you).

JosTee · May 18, 2019

sorry for my post .i missed the rest of the replies.

jakeklein89 · May 18, 2019

JosTee said:
focus on not have a spark. Is there voltage on the coil when your keyswitch is"on "?.At this moment i dont recall the number/ connection on the coil but one side is feeding voltage of /from keyswitch, top goes to distributor other one is from ignition module.Sounds maybe stupid to repeat this but you must have a spark when you crank the engine.If there is voltage on the coil the lead that goes to distributor disconnect it from dist. and hold it aproxx 4 mm of the engine b-isolated- and let somebody else crank the engine . See if there is a spark. There must be plenty story's in eg. haynes motorbooks to get step by step through this kind of problems.Just start again from the beginning. I suppose you do have a voltmeter or even a bulb to check if there is voltage on the places were they should suppose to be.In my case in the past the switch in the steering colum was bad and when you took the car in a turn sometimes the engine stalls. The truth is bigger/stranger then your imagination sometimes( nature / the car fools you).

Figured it out like a Month ago thank you so much for the reply tho

General karthief · May 19, 2019

You never posted the fix, what was it?

jakeklein89 · May 19, 2019

General karthief said:
You never posted the fix, what was it?

Yeah i did ? Duralast distributor no good put old one back in started right up

General karthief · May 19, 2019

Didn't see it and I've been following along, oh well, what's next?

jakeklein89 · May 19, 2019

Junkyard hci and restore my suspension ride quality and some light rust repair

1989 wont start after motor swap

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You have a nice rear end there Dave.

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