Progress Thread 1990 Lx 5.0 Dark Titanium "one Last Ride"

Nutty 5.o

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Apr 17, 2000
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This is the first post on here in a very long time. Maybe 10 years? I had a 93 GT that was featured in MM&FF in 02 and 5.0 and Super Fords in 03. Picked up an 89 LX auto so the wife could drive in 2003. Miss both of those cars but I moved to an 03 Cobra and got pretty bored of the hobby and sold it in 2011.

Many years later and some life changing health conditions, I'm picking up a 90 LX. Ironically this was a friends car back until the early to mid 2000's where he sold it to a friends son that wrecked it. The car was fixed 4-5 years ago about 75% of the way and the son lost interest. I've been working at it my friends shop who's going to repaint a few things (roof, quarters, cowl) and the 2.5" cowl hood I picked up for it.

The things done to car are many of my old GT parts so it is fantastic to know the history: 3.73's, Cobra intake, 6037's I mildly ported years ago, Comp cam (Not sure), 3G conversion, BBK unequal length's, high flow no name cat pipe, bastardized MAC cat back, 73 or 76mm C&L, 65mm TB, roller rockers, upper and lower control arms, bullitt springs, CC plates, and much more I know I'm forgetting. It starts and runs with an air bag and check engine light on. I haven't bothered with the CE light yet and the airbag is the clock spring which I have one but not sure it works. Hoping to find a tilt column along the way and remove the air bag light and module for now.

My goals for this car: pretty much leave it as is with clean up of the overall car to make it fully functional and a nice day cruiser. So far, I've pulled the interior as it was pretty nasty and will be replacing the ca rpet and headliner when the car comes home. I'll replace the exhaust with a MAC prochamber and cat back as I've always loved the sound and had two set ups on my past cars. I'll put the A/C back together on the car, subframe connectors, a tilt column, and 5 lug conversion.

Paint info/production info thanks to the members here:
YU Dark Titanium
LX 5.0 Hatchback (P41F): 1,102 made


I fortunately have some pics of the car when it was at my shop some in April 2006 when my friend still had it:

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Nutty 5.o

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Pics of it now. Fender molding trim that's missing will be painted as well. I have new trim for the entire outside of the car ready to go on when the shop's done with it. It needed an ignition switch that we replaced last week. Not sure why they took the dash apart but it may make it easier to see if the fuel gauge needle is off, broken, or has a bad sending until or gauge.
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mikestang63

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nice car and great story. Really cool to hear when guys are able to find their old cars. It looks very clean.. One thing I'd suggest is replacing the cone air filter with a stock or aftermartket CAI.

Keep us posted on your progress and welcome back.
 
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Nutty 5.o

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Yes, that's on the list. From the repairs, they put in the ones with no holes so I need to make an opening. I actually have the other part of the BBK cold air kit but no hole to put it in!
 

jrichker

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Here's some help with the fuel quantity gauge...



Fuel Quantity gauge troubleshooting 87-93 Mustangs

Revised 27-Feb-2017 to add new picture of the anti-slosh module and alternate source for capacitors

attachment.php?attachmentid=54945&stc=1&d=1215873264.gif


The red/yellow wire (power supply to gauge & sender) should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the start or Run position.

Troubleshooting the gauge and sender circuit:
Since the sender uses a variable resistor, sum the resistor values of 22 Ohms (empty value) & 145 Ohms (full value). That gets you 167, which you divide by 2: that gets you 83.5. So in theory, 83.5 ohms is 1/2 full. A trip to Radio Shack for the closest combination of resistors to make 83.5 ohms gets you one 68 Ohm (Catalog #: 271-1106) + one 15 Ohm (Catalog #: 271-1102) for a total of 83 Ohms at the cost of $2 plus tax. Wire the resistors in series to make a resistor pack and cover it with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. The 83 Ohms is close enough to the 83.5 Ohm figure that it shouldn't matter. Disconnect the electrical connector shown in the diagram for the tank sender unit. Connect one end of the resistor pack to the yellow/white wire on the body side fuel sender electrical connector and the other end of the resistor pack to ground. Make sure nothing is touching that isn't supposed to and turn the ignition switch to Run. If I am correct, the fuel gauge will read 1/2 full, or very close to it. If it does not, then the odds are that the gauge or anti-slosh unit are bad.

How and why the test works…
Most of the fuel gauge failures give a stuck on full or stuck on empty as a problem symptom. Using a resistor combination that mimics 1/2 tank allows you to decide if the gauge and anti-slosh module are the problem source.

If the gauge reads about 1/2 tank with the resistor combination, that points to the sender as being the culprit.

If the gauge reads full or empty with the resistor pack in place of the sender, then the gauge or anti-slosh module is at fault.

Fuel gauge sender testing and replacement
The next steps require dropping the fuel tank and removal of the fuel level sender. Here are some useful tips...

I have done the tank removal three times, and the main issues are getting the car up on jack stands and getting the gas out of the tank. DO NOT try to do this job without jack stands. Becoming a pancake is not part of the repair process.

Pumping out the old gas:
If the old pump still works, you can use it to pump the tank out.
1.) Separate the pressure line (the one with the Schrader valve on it) using the fuel line tools.
Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling.
61yoVRLxcXL._SL1350_.jpg


OR

images



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRTjYAxvaCs

Use a piece of garden hose to run from the pressure line to your bucket or gas can. Make sure it is as leak proof as you can make it. Fire and explosion are not part of the repair process...

2.) Jumper the fuel pump test point to ground.

attachment.php


Turn the ignition switch to the Run position. the fuel pump will pump the tank almost dry unless the battery runs down first.

Some 5 gallon paint pails lined with garbage bags are good to hold the gas. The garbage bags provide a clean liner for the pails and keep the loose trash out of the gas so you can reuse it. If you decide to use a siphon, a piece of 1/2" garden hose stuck down the filler neck will siphon all but a gallon or so of the gas.

Remove the filler neck bolts and put them in a zip bag. Disconnect the supply & return lines by removing the plastic clips from the metal tubing. If you damage the clips, you can get new ones form the auto part store for just a few dollars. I have used tie-wraps, but that is not the best choice. Then you remove the two 9/16" nuts that hold the T bolts to the straps. Put the nuts in the zip bag with the filler bolts. Pull the plastic shield down and away from the tank. Once the tank drops a little bit you can disconnect the wiring for the pump & fuel quantity sender.

The fuel gauge sender assembly comes out by removing a large metal ring that unscrews from the tank. There is a separate mounting/access plate for the fuel pump and fuel gage. You are supposed to use a brass punch to tap on the ring so that you don't make sparks. Look closely at the rubber O ring gasket when you remove the fuel gauge sender.
When you install the metal ring that holds the sender in place, watch out for the gasket O ring. Some RTV may be helpful if the ring is not in excellent condition.

The tank to filler pipe seal is a large rubber grommet. Inspect it for hardening, tears and damage. At $20 from the Ford dealer, it might be a good idea to replace it.

I used a floor jack to help lift the tank back in place. You may find that it is the only time you really can make good use of a helper.

All resistance measurements should be made with the power off.

Note from bstrd86 - 86 and older fuel tank sender units are 73 ohms empty, 8-12 ohms full.


The yellow/white wire will show a voltage that varies with the movement of the float on the sender unit. To test the sender, set your Ohmmeter or DVM on low Ohms. Then disconnect the sender and connect the Ohmmeter or DVM to the yellow/white and black wires from the sender unit. Move the float arm while watching the Ohmmeter or DVM. You should see the reading change from 22 to 145 ohms +/- 10%.

If the Ohmmeter or DVM resistance readings are way off, replace the tank sender unit.

Use extreme caution if you do the next step. Fumes from the gas tank can easily ignite and cause a fire or explosion.
With the sender unit out of the tank and connected to the body wiring harness, turn the ignition switch to the Run position. Move the float arm and the fuel gauge indicator should move. If you are very careful, you can use a pair of safety pins inserted in the connector for the yellow/white and black wires to measure the voltage as you move the float arm. The voltage will change, but I have no specs for what it should be.
Do not short the safety pins together or to ground. If you do, you may damage the anti-slosh module or crate a spark. A spark with the fuel tank open could cause a fire or an explosion.

If the voltage does not change and the tanks sender passed the resistance tests, the anti-slosh module or gauge is bad.

There are 2 different versions of the anti-slosh module, one for 87-89 and another for 90-93

The 87-89 module is shown below.
[
Slosh_Module_Original.jpg


This is what the 90-93 module looks like.
lrs-10849_1937.jpg


LRS has the 90-93 module as a standard catalog item, cost is about $160


Inexpensive anti-slosh module repair - should work on 87-93 anti-slosh modules
Copied from DrBob

I worked on an 88 Mustang today that had similar symptoms. Short version, I took the “anti slosh module” off of the back of the instrument cluster and replaced the electrolytic capacitor. Fixed it for $1.39 with a part from Radio Shack.

In an attempt to help other folks, here’s the long version.
Remove the “anti slosh module” located on the back of the instrument cluster. There was a single Torx screw holding mine to the cluster.

Find the electrolytic capacitor. It will be the largest, 2 wire component on the board. The capacitor may have a red or blue plastic wrapper on it. Mine was red.

The wrapper should have printing on it. Look for printing that looks something like this:
100uF+25V

The “100uF” tells you this is a 100 micro Farad capacitor. The “+25V” tells you the capacitor is rated for 25 Volts. Yours may be different. You may use a higher voltage part but don't use a lower rated voltage part. If you use a lower voltage part the capacitor might open later on down the road or it could be as bad as catching fire.

If you can’t find the printing you’ll need to remove the part. You have to anyway so nothing wasted. However pay close attention to the way the capacitor is oriented on the board.

One end of the capacitor will be bare metal with a wire sticking out. The other end should have some sort of insulation over it with a wire sticking out. The bare metal end is the negative end while the insulated end is the positive end. Pay attention to which end is connected to which hole on the board.

Get a replacement part. I got mine at Radio Shack, $1.39. Here’s the info:
100µF 35V 20% Axial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitor
Model: 272-1016 | Catalog #: 272-1016

See www.digikey.com for better capacitors – these are rated for automotive use and 105° C temp which is needed to survive the hot environment found in automotive electrical circuits.
P/N 4215PHCT-ND $2.10 (first choice)
OR
P/N 4201PHCT-ND $2.59


Fuel tank sender unit:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Gas-And-Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit

Be sure to get the lock ring and a new seal if you order the tank sender unit.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ng-Fuel-Pump-Sending-Unit-Lock-Ring-And-Seal\
 
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Nutty 5.o

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Been a while since I've posted an update. This past Saturday was the first time I was able to get over there for two weeks. The Saturday before we went with my friend, the shop owner, to pick up and install his new 4 post lift for his home...

  • I added some more fresh fuel and dug into why the gauge didn't work. Easy fix: gauge needle in the dash was sticking so it's working after fixing that. I have a little over 1/2 tank in there now of fresh 93 with fuel treatment.
  • Tested battery: really weak so brought the battery home to try and slow charge it; no luck so I'll be getting a new battery. It needed a jump all the time. I found the hatch wasn't latched when I first looked at the car so guessing the light drained it and now has some bad cells due to sitting 5-6 years.
  • Got the cheap President's Day DTD Kumho tires mounted/balanced and now back on the car. Nothing major, but the tires were so badly dry rotted and the front needs an alignment badly and was worn to the cords on the front. I will be headed for an alignment immediately after the paint and PA inspection.
  • Tackled swapping in the Steeda sway bar and mounts. The original mounts were all twisted up from the accident. Need a second hand to be able to cinch up the bolts, but have it in and installed until next week when I can get a hand.
  • Check Engine Light: pulled codes: only 22: BAP. Sure enough, it's cracked so I ordered a Motorcraft replacement so fairly confident that issue will be resolved.
Quick video from Saturday. Just aftermarket cat pipe on it. Have cat back to put on yet. The interior is gutted so I can replace the carpet, etc. when I get the car back. I'll be installing the new aftermarket quarter windows as the ones that are on it are really bad. I'm not happy with the aftermarket ones but I didn't want to have to bother finding a good set or taking the time to deal with fixing them. And honestly, this car will never be a show car or some original high value car. I may get some vinyl decals made to match the logo and put them on so it looks original from a distance.

What's next? Other than tightening up the sway bar, installing the new battery and BAP, and installing the pieced together MAC cat back it's paint jail. I'm trying to avoid getting any parts like new headlights, etc. until the car gets home. You know how it is leaving your car at the body shop; things accidently get lost, damaged or broken. Fortunately they have my Cervini 2.5" cowl hood out of the way!

New tires.jpg BAP.jpg Sway Bar.jpg
 
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Nutty 5.o

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A few questions for those who've restored their titanium interiors: As mentioned, I have the gutted interior from the car at my house other than the carpet which I trashed as it was nasty and stunk due to the mice that were in it. I'm going to clean up what I have but I may need to do some painting and replacing (Specifically the armrest support has a crack and the console part that houses the ashtray is cracked as well as some armrest plugs and console plugs) so wanted to see what is recommended. I know LMR sells the paint but they keep going out of stock and the reviews suck.

So for paint, is the better option to match? Worst case, or is someone has a cheaper option, I can paint all the pieces since it's all out. Note I will be installing new carpet, headliner and sun visors. The door panels are great other than the sagging map pockets. I'll do some searching for a fix but considering the pocket eliminators as an option.

Also, has anyone used the LMR upper console replacement? https://lmr.com/item/LRS-04490A/87-93-Console-Top-Panel-With-Power-Mirrors
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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A few questions for those who've restored their titanium interiors: As mentioned, I have the gutted interior from the car at my house other than the carpet which I trashed as it was nasty and stunk due to the mice that were in it. I'm going to clean up what I have but I may need to do some painting and replacing (Specifically the armrest support has a crack and the console part that houses the ashtray is cracked as well as some armrest plugs and console plugs) so wanted to see what is recommended. I know LMR sells the paint but they keep going out of stock and the reviews suck.

So for paint, is the better option to match? Worst case, or is someone has a cheaper option, I can paint all the pieces since it's all out. Note I will be installing new carpet, headliner and sun visors. The door panels are great other than the sagging map pockets. I'll do some searching for a fix but considering the pocket eliminators as an option.

Also, has anyone used the LMR upper console replacement? https://lmr.com/item/LRS-04490A/87-93-Console-Top-Panel-With-Power-Mirrors
I think thats a question for @Davedacarpainter since he is restoring his interior and has paint running through his veins.
 
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Davedacarpainter

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I really can't tell you the cheap way to paint the interior plastics.

But, if you want a matching color, you could take one of your interior parts to an automotive store (Oreilly's, Autozone, etc...) that sells automotive paint to body shops. Ask them if they would match the color and provide you with enough to spray your parts. A good store should be able to match the color very close.

Better yet, if you can find a paint store that does nothing else but provide paints to body shops (we call them paint jobbers) you'll probably have the best luck there. They have people actually trained in the lines of paint they sell. Plus they'll sell any of the needed materials you might need in preparation and masking.

Some of those stores can even provide the paint after it's been mixed in a rattle can format to make it easier for you.

Be sure to clean your parts thoroughly first, scuff them the way the store recommends and use a plastic adhesion promoter first. The PAP provides a chemical bond to your plastics that is vital.
 
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Nutty 5.o

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I really can't tell you the cheap way to paint the interior plastics.

But, if you want a matching color, you could take one of your interior parts to an automotive store (Oreilly's, Autozone, etc...) that sells automotive paint to body shops. Ask them if they would match the color and provide you with enough to spray your parts. A good store should be able to match the color very close.

Better yet, if you can find a paint store that does nothing else but provide paints to body shops (we call them paint jobbers) you'll probably have the best luck there. They have people actually trained in the lines of paint they sell. Plus they'll sell any of the needed materials you might need in preparation and masking.

Some of those stores can even provide the paint after it's been mixed in a rattle can format to make it easier for you.

Be sure to clean your parts thoroughly first, scuff them the way the store recommends and use a plastic adhesion promoter first. The PAP provides a chemical bond to your plastics that is vital.

Awesome! Thank you; and the car is a body shop so they should be able to point me in the direction of where to buy. I know they'd paint what I needed but that will just drag it on longer and really don't need them to do it when I can handle it.
 
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Nutty 5.o

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Due to the snow here in the NE, my BAP sensor didn't come until this week so I didn't do much on the car Saturday like I usually do. I put some more fresh 93 in it and saw that the fuel gauge "fix" I did is still good. Put a new battery in, and assessed the interior. As you can see in the pics, a new sunvisor and headliner will need to be put in which I was planning for.

Figured the MG time slip from when my buddy raced it last was pretty cool too!

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92Apocalypso

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I'm currently in the process of restoring my titanium grey interior as well. While I haven't ordered that center console yet, I've known people who have said great things about it. I would consider ordering it, and bringing that piece to an automotive paint shop for them to color match. I saw you lived in PA? If so, Google search Kayfield automotive paint. They have at least one location in PA, and are one of the biggest body shop suppliers in the tri state area. They sell PPG paint and have a hand held machine they can make a good match for you, although I do not believe they can put custom stuff in spray cans. I'll begin my interior restoration once I can get my LX to pass Delaware emissions. Good luck
 
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Nutty 5.o

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Been out of town last weekend so I didn't get anything done much more than little things the weekend before. The car open loop idles much better with the new BAP. I also put in the rubber mounts for the CJ Pony Parts radiator that was missing under the passenger side. I also ditched the old UPR mangled up radiator hold down with some old originals I had.

I spent a good amount of time last week troubleshooting the power seat. As my friend said, it did work. Everything was gummed up so I took it all apart and lubed it all up. It's working well now. I have it soaking in some Evaporust which I've used for my pinball restorations with great success.

I've decided to take the 93 seats I have and do them in Titanium grey since the power seat motor is operational. I'll give up the bottom slider but I never used that on my 89 LX I had anyway. I stripped the covers on the driver 93 seat so I guess an order for new covers is due!

Hope to have more pics coming soon.

Seat track from 93 Cobra working:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P63gU-A-nIw


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Nutty 5.o

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Last Saturday was trying to put the cat back on with some new tailpipes. Long story short, it's not working well so I abandoned and ordered a new MAC cat back that I was going to get anyway. I need something so I can get it inspected, so I might as well get what I want now. I should be able to get it installed this week. I was able to get the lighting switches in so I could test lights. Everything works! I vacuumed out the interior and put in the new door and hatch weatherstripping.

This week the upholstery came. I went with new TMI seat foams, new springs and Acme 92 Titanium grey to go with the 93 seats (Originally opal) that I have. I don't care that the tweed is off or the piping isn't tweed. But it's new and will do the part. Having a friend use both, I went with the Acme. The pics don't really show the colors as well but I think the new titanium looks pretty good. They look like a better match in person than the pics unfortunately (Color obviously; not the tweed). I wanted to share as I was doing a lot of searching on seating and other than a few posts, there wasn't much info out there. Hopefully this will help some others decide. Will update the upholstery as I complete it!

93 head rest vs. the new 92 Titanium:
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New 92 vs. the original 1990 titanium:
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More new 92 vs. the original 1990 titanium:
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Pics of car taken Saturday:
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