Progress Thread 1993 LX Hatch Progress
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All the ignition parts between the distributor and the sparklers new? I thought you mentioned this............
Timing set at? Can't remember, I know you swapped the balancer.
Fuel pressure is good, both ends.......
Sitting for how many years? I'd guess injectors are crappy.
Or the fuel rail is plugged up.
Do you have to crank on it a long time to start?
Timing set at? Can't remember, I know you swapped the balancer.
Fuel pressure is good, both ends.......
Sitting for how many years? I'd guess injectors are crappy.
Or the fuel rail is plugged up.
Do you have to crank on it a long time to start?
Was able to verify the coil is good. Here's what has checked out good so far:
Original MSD coil
Original Ford Distributor
New temp sensors
New air intake sensor
Fuel pressure (idle and WOT)
No codes.
Timing is at 10 deg BDC
Like I said before it drives great if you keep it under 4,000 rpm. If you go WOT in 1st and second you really notice it. It sounds lean...popping, studdering, etc.
My next steps are probably 02 sensors, MAF, TPS. Plug wires don't look that old but that doesn't really mean anything. Just sucks buying parts without knowing for sure. It does have an inconsistent sucking sound through the air filter...sometimes it's really loud...like it's struggling to maintain idle/running. Idle will occasionally go up like 100rpm but then settles back down.
Opinions are much appreciated!
Original MSD coil
Original Ford Distributor
New temp sensors
New air intake sensor
Fuel pressure (idle and WOT)
No codes.
Timing is at 10 deg BDC
Like I said before it drives great if you keep it under 4,000 rpm. If you go WOT in 1st and second you really notice it. It sounds lean...popping, studdering, etc.
My next steps are probably 02 sensors, MAF, TPS. Plug wires don't look that old but that doesn't really mean anything. Just sucks buying parts without knowing for sure. It does have an inconsistent sucking sound through the air filter...sometimes it's really loud...like it's struggling to maintain idle/running. Idle will occasionally go up like 100rpm but then settles back down.
Opinions are much appreciated!
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Fires on 3rd or 4th crank. I just posted an update that answers you questions. Thanks for the help!
Check the TPS with a DVM and make sure you are getting a constantly increasing voltage all the way through opening the throttle body. Should start out around 0.9V (you stated that it puts this out at idle) and then should increase up to 4.25 volts or higher at WOT. Max would be 5 volts being that what the VREF coming out of the ECU is.
That's a really good idea. Funny thing is my car cruises just fine...no stuttering or anything. But injectors could still be the problem. It does have a slight shake at idle especially when warm.
Yah I did check that and the voltage appeared to be smooth when I opened the butterfly. I may recheck it though.
Plug wires are still an unknown. Been sitting for 2-6 years...Atleast 2. I'm liking your injector suggestion. So weird it runs very smooth when I am just cruising around. But I guess the fuel demand would be pretty low.
I am going to try and clean them myself first...not nearly as precise but for how bad it is running... hopefully it's an obvious problem. I will bump the timing up but I am keeping it lower until I get this issue fixed.
89ripper
Founding Member
When its seems down on power I look to fuel first. 10 deg base intial timing is stock. Didnt you recently replace harmonic balancer? If you did double check those marks.
Well, I can't sleep so I decided to clean the injectors myself. Watched a few YT videos and the key is being able to build pressure with your cleaner and cycle the injector.
I used carb cleaner and was able to create something that would hold pressure without blowing apart in my face...took a few tries.
Hard to tell how bad they were because you have so many things going on at once with only 2 hands to control it all. Number 8 had some crud in the inlet screen. I cleaned it out and flushed it. Right now they all appear to have a nice spray pattern. I guess we'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Here's what I did:
I sprayed the rail and will let it sit overnight before I flush with denatured alcohol. I'll make sure to remove the regulator when I do that part. Orings are sprayed with oil for the night. I will clean the exterior of the injectors tomorrow and toss them back in.
I used carb cleaner and was able to create something that would hold pressure without blowing apart in my face...took a few tries.
Hard to tell how bad they were because you have so many things going on at once with only 2 hands to control it all. Number 8 had some crud in the inlet screen. I cleaned it out and flushed it. Right now they all appear to have a nice spray pattern. I guess we'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Here's what I did:
I sprayed the rail and will let it sit overnight before I flush with denatured alcohol. I'll make sure to remove the regulator when I do that part. Orings are sprayed with oil for the night. I will clean the exterior of the injectors tomorrow and toss them back in.
Is the dist cap clean underneath? No carbon tracking or grease in there or anything?
Try taking a spary bottle with water in it and misting the coil and plug wires while it's running. See if you hear any arcing or if it stumbles.
The weird intake sucking noise you are having seems like it should be a clue but I can't think of what would cause that.
Definitely no air leaks between the MAF and TB? That'll cause issues for sure.
Try taking a spary bottle with water in it and misting the coil and plug wires while it's running. See if you hear any arcing or if it stumbles.
The weird intake sucking noise you are having seems like it should be a clue but I can't think of what would cause that.
Definitely no air leaks between the MAF and TB? That'll cause issues for sure.
Dropped in a new distributor with no luck yesterday. I will try the soap and water trick today as well. No air leaks that I can tell but I will double check too. Yeah the intake noise is weird for sure. Maybe MAF?
The noise from the intake sucking air is normal, may sound kinda weird but it's just sound waves bumping into each other and turning corners and stuff. Put a stock airbox on it or even a tube to get the air filter away from the MAF, you want airflow as straight as possible entering the MAF, some have even rotated the MAF to get a good, uninterrupted flow through the sample tube in aftermarket MAF housings.
Nice...Cant wait to see if this is it.Well, I can't sleep so I decided to clean the injectors myself. Watched a few YT videos and the key is being able to build pressure with your cleaner and cycle the injector.
I used carb cleaner and was able to create something that would hold pressure without blowing apart in my face...took a few tries.
Hard to tell how bad they were because you have so many things going on at once with only 2 hands to control it all. Number 8 had some crud in the inlet screen. I cleaned it out and flushed it. Right now they all appear to have a nice spray pattern. I guess we'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Here's what I did:
I sprayed the rail and will let it sit overnight before I flush with denatured alcohol. I'll make sure to remove the regulator when I do that part. Orings are sprayed with oil for the night. I will clean the exterior of the injectors tomorrow and toss them back in.
My LMR package has arrived with the stock airbox setup. It's going on asap.
