Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver
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Yes, I tought of that, too. I will use them in the beginning to see how much dirt is still inside the tank and if the pump is happy with the arrangement (filter size and position). Later on I will get one with a metal housing.
Tank fill tube is also installed with all the mixed 1gen Mustang parts. I needed the heat gun to give the seal at the tank a little motivation, so that the pipe slips in better.
Tank fill tube is also installed with all the mixed 1gen Mustang parts. I needed the heat gun to give the seal at the tank a little motivation, so that the pipe slips in better.
I also got the subframe connectors installed. How much should be the 6 bolts on the front be torqued down? Just that the lockwasher is compressed and a little more? The rear is torqued to 70 lb*ft which is fine,but for the front to much I think...
Not that I am aware of. I have not had it back on jack stands after re-tightening then driving it though. The other II's have taken my time lately. While I was tightening them I watched and did not see any deformation.
I initially used my little Rigid impact driver which puts out maybe 70 ft lbs. Trailer wheels come loose after about 10 miles when using it alone. I can hear my uni-lug wheels moving when I use it alone. It is pretty weak. When I re-tightened them I used a half inch drive ratchet. I didn't yank on the ratchet. Just tightened them a little more than the small impact would. 100 may be a little high. Probably closer to 80 or 90 ft lbs.
I initially used my little Rigid impact driver which puts out maybe 70 ft lbs. Trailer wheels come loose after about 10 miles when using it alone. I can hear my uni-lug wheels moving when I use it alone. It is pretty weak. When I re-tightened them I used a half inch drive ratchet. I didn't yank on the ratchet. Just tightened them a little more than the small impact would. 100 may be a little high. Probably closer to 80 or 90 ft lbs.
I spent sometime on the engine bay and installed the needed fittings to the air cleaner and did all hoses (PCV, charcol canister) and fuel line. Now the fuel line ends near the carburetor and only a short fuel hose is needed.
I didn't look under the car to check the subframe connector bolts, because I didn't want to crawl again into the dirt.
Next Saturday there will be someone looking for my 66 hardtop who is very interested.
Lets see...
This is 1 hour drive away for sale and costs just a little more, which the pocket money faerie will allow:
I know that I will regret selling the 66 at some point, but I have all parts for a I6 to V8 swap for a 65-68 Mustang (Fastback?) laying around... which is plan B, because I6 fastback could be in the price range also.
I didn't look under the car to check the subframe connector bolts, because I didn't want to crawl again into the dirt.
Next Saturday there will be someone looking for my 66 hardtop who is very interested.
Lets see...
This is 1 hour drive away for sale and costs just a little more, which the pocket money faerie will allow:
I know that I will regret selling the 66 at some point, but I have all parts for a I6 to V8 swap for a 65-68 Mustang (Fastback?) laying around... which is plan B, because I6 fastback could be in the price range also.
66 coupe still my property, but the potential buyer was quite happy with the car, but want some time to decide.
I saw a 66 fairlane 500 with a 360 engine and this picture from the rear axle:
Is this a 8 inch rear axle?
I think I would sell the 360 and build up a 351w based stroker for this car...
In any case the 8 inch is a big negativ point...
I saw a 66 fairlane 500 with a 360 engine and this picture from the rear axle:
Is this a 8 inch rear axle?
I think I would sell the 360 and build up a 351w based stroker for this car...
In any case the 8 inch is a big negativ point...
Yes, that is an 8 inch. Personally, I don't think an 8 inch would be a deterring factor unless you plan to drive it hard. Of course a 9 inch is better, but an 8 inch isn't all that bad.
I think it would depend on how you drive it. Big, sticky tires and hard launches would probably break it. Otherwise it'd probably serve the purpose. I believe it's the axle spline count that is the weak link, and if I remember correctly, the input bearing area...? I think someone has a product to alleviate some of that though. I guess it just boils down to how much money you want to put into it vs how much money you want to invest in a 9 inch swap.
A 8.8 hold what you need, get a explorer 8.8, you get bigger spline count, narrow it add spring perches, and you got discs too. Bet it would be less money than a 9" and just as strong.
Yep, shoulda said "much money you want to invest in a 9 or an 8.8 inch swap." 
- Mar 7, 2002
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Unless you're making a boatload of power, an 8" is better than most realize. ElSuperPinto's 8" survives to this day after running 12-second passes on Friday nights for years.
Behind a strong 351W based stroker might be a different animal, but my 8 inch is holding up just fine as well. My uncle also built a small block prostreet pickup and used an 8 inch. As far as I know, he's never taken it to a drag strip or tried launching it hard, but that's what he chose for his personal build.
A friend is running a 64 falcon rally car with 8 inch moser axle and true trac diff with his 302 roller with AFR165.The car is leightweight (GFRP fenders, trunk lid, hood) but every year he has to redo the 3rd member. I think the additional weight of the fairlane and the 351w makes it clear: 8.8 swap IF this will happen.
But you are right: the 8 inch is a great axle. The weight is one big plus and it will handle normal driving even with a more powerfull engine, but there is a limit...
But you are right: the 8 inch is a great axle. The weight is one big plus and it will handle normal driving even with a more powerfull engine, but there is a limit...
429MII
Mustang Master
Must have been a 6 banger car originally with an 8" in it.. With any traction you would scatter that 8" with torque of a big block. On T/A's it would probably live as there is literally no traction lol...a safe rule of thumb is small block and lighter car are ok with 8" .....big block and med to heavy car 9" ....
Charcoal canister is hanging in the front wheel well. the cupper line comes from the tank and the big hose goes to the air filter.
Fuel line ends now near the carburetor.
The subframe starts to deform if I torque the bolts of the subframe connectors to higher torque levels... Seems this one (74) is weaker than the later years. Will leave it as it is and see how it develops when the car drives.
Yesterday I made the brackets for the e-fan (BMW E32). Because it has two RPMs I have used an thermo-switch with two trigger temperatures also from BMW which is already installed in the lower radiator hose.
I think I'm getting slowly to the point where it makes sense to make a list in here what is needed to fire here up:
- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring (I ordered set of cables, to get it done)
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week)
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing)
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel
I'm afraid wiring takes 1 or 2 months, still not my favorite work. Rest is doable.
Fuel line ends now near the carburetor.
The subframe starts to deform if I torque the bolts of the subframe connectors to higher torque levels... Seems this one (74) is weaker than the later years. Will leave it as it is and see how it develops when the car drives.
Yesterday I made the brackets for the e-fan (BMW E32). Because it has two RPMs I have used an thermo-switch with two trigger temperatures also from BMW which is already installed in the lower radiator hose.
I think I'm getting slowly to the point where it makes sense to make a list in here what is needed to fire here up:
- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring (I ordered set of cables, to get it done)
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week)
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing)
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel
I'm afraid wiring takes 1 or 2 months, still not my favorite work. Rest is doable.
- Finish wiring (I ordered set of cables, to get it done)
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week)
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing)
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel
- Mar 7, 2002
- 9,432
- 5,380
- 224
You're a brave man using a BMW fan.
I work on BMW for a living. I've also worked on Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram, Fiat, Hyundai, Kia, Mazda, Mitsubishi, and Suzuki at the dealership level, as well as virtually every other make at an independent shop, a Firestone, and a Carmax. I've also done parts for Ford, Volkswagen, Hyundai, Mitsubishi, Suzuki, GMC, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Advance, and Autozone. In my 17+ years across all of that experience, I've never found a more garbage brand of vehicle than BMW.
I work on BMW for a living. I've also worked on Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram, Fiat, Hyundai, Kia, Mazda, Mitsubishi, and Suzuki at the dealership level, as well as virtually every other make at an independent shop, a Firestone, and a Carmax. I've also done parts for Ford, Volkswagen, Hyundai, Mitsubishi, Suzuki, GMC, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Advance, and Autozone. In my 17+ years across all of that experience, I've never found a more garbage brand of vehicle than BMW.
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