Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

Those jack stands are far too wimpy for my liking. I use the 6 ton stands, they are higher and the thin metal on those tubular ones scares the crap out of me at anything more than bottomed out,,, i'm glad you have a safety measure of a wood box though..always have a back up plan when under a car...
 
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I keep telling myself that I'm going to make some of these...

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Seems like you'd have more room to work and you could make them whatever height works for you.
 
Those jack stands are far too wimpy for my liking. I use the 6 ton stands, they are higher and the thin metal on those tubular ones scares the crap out of me at anything more than bottomed out,,, i'm glad you have a safety measure of a wood box though..always have a back up plan when under a car...
Never thought of that. The wood box is the old standard for carrying wine bottles... It will hold up nothing. I used it to mock up the exhaust.
The jack stands are 1 tonne and have an approval. But perhaps you are right and I should rethink this. When I started working on cars I didn't had trust in any jack stand or in my experience placing them right. I'm always shacking the car to check if it has a good stand.
I have also a set of ramps, which is my preferred method of getting the car up.
 
Never thought of that. The wood box is the old standard for carrying wine bottles... It will hold up nothing. I used it to mock up the exhaust.
The jack stands are 1 tonne and have an approval. But perhaps you are right and I should rethink this. When I started working on cars I didn't had trust in any jack stand or in my experience placing them right. I'm always shacking the car to check if it has a good stand.
I have also a set of ramps, which is my preferred method of getting the car up.
If I am under a car even with 3 ton jacks I always slide a tire or a milk crate or something underneath or wood blocks under the tires that gives me an escape if the jack fails or falls. Those cheap tubular stands are only useful at their lowest setting. raising them high makes them much more risky. Your life is worth more than that. Those tube ones are made in China and the rating is dubious at best, Mine are also made in china but being rated for 6000 lbs, I can safely assume they will handle 1000. Always put something else under there to take the weight and clearance of the vehicle so you can get out.. even a log is good, or spare tire and some blocks.
 
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That exhaust manifold is so tight, wow. Those are the 66 style right?
Yes, this are the 289 exhaust manifold from a 66 mustang.
Because the downpipe is bigger in diameter it is harder to get a nut or a wrench onto the bolts (obvious). That is the only downside of this solution IMO. Because everything else is 2.5'' diameter I don't think that I will have to much back pressure / performance loss using the manifolds instead of headers. Headers will have some extra TQ/HP in there sweet spot, but this is not that much that I care about.
If you have a good flowing exhaust (mandrel bent and 2.5'') and flow trough mufflers, there is not much back pressure. With the exhaust manifold and no exhaust crossover the sound should be how I want it. I also think it will be not to loud with this tiny explorer cam.
Because the exhaust gas gets cooler when traveling down the exhaust, I think there will be no performance loss if some 2'' mandrel bend pipes would be used to build an over axle pipe.
 
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General thinking on exhaust is bigger towards the exit usually.(think stepped headers).Not smaller after larger. True the exhaust likes to see some expansion until cooling of gasses (header collectors length).
Simplest way I would try to use the MII manifolds for clearance reasons and hook that to 2 1/2 pipe front to back if you want bigger pipe and have room.
Or, You could use 3" pipe about 18" long. as far forward as you can place them ( like emptied out glass pack mufflers) as expansion chambers, then the 2 1/2 to the rear with mufflers or (2" if you must.)
2" pipe (true duals) is completely adequate for 302 cubic inches, and you won't see any noticeable gain or loss in power between 2" and 2 1/2" on any dual exhaust with manifolds on a 302 between those two sizes unless spending all your time at 6 k rpm and up on a fairly modified engine (heads, cam, compression, intake etc.).
I would use what fits best and easiest in this case.
 
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They were able to get 2 1/4" over the rear axle on my exhaust. It is not mandrel bent though. I have headers to 2 1/2 then changes to 2 1/4 over the axle into the dual in/out muffler.
 
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oday I tried to get my tire/wheel combo on my 66 approved by german TÜV...
After 20 minutes all 4 inspectors where looking at the car. And after they loaded 6 heavy sandbacks into the trunk and two inspectors where also pushing the car down they said the tire is rubbing at the rear fender :confused:
Just to get it right... I'm driving like this for around two years.
On the other hand if I'm involved into a crash I can get in big trouble if it is not approved in the papers.
The good thing is the fenders on the front are already rolled before i bought the car and the inspectors are fine with the front. So lets buy a fender roller (about 30 from ebay) and try to not mess up the paint...

Some weeks later: fenders are rolled and I have the approval of the TÜV :)
 
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Pictures of the 66 coupe will follow. I need to make some good ones for selling... :scratch:
The exhaust hangs under the car. I still need to do some minor work, but it's hanging. Turndowns should be fulfilling the requirement: exhaust needs to end at the rear axle.
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So I need fuel for the engine... I picked up the tank sitting in my other garage. Fuel sending unit puts out 10 and 65 Ohms after cleaning. Seems to be allright.
Fuel tank is rusty. What are your recommendations? Flush it with a pressure washer and dry it with compressed air?!
 
But I think this needs also cleaning before application, does it?!
A friend which is a motorcycle mechanic says he doesn't like coatings because they can come off and will also clog everything. They have it time to time with customers bicycles. Especially with E10 rust will not be an issue, he says.
 
they can come off and will also clog everything.


Improper prep inside tank. Stuff won't hang onto varnish deposits well.
I put a heavy chain, water and sand inside gas tank and rolled / swirled it around alot, before rinsing and using hair dryer to dry it inside.
The E10 will wash the rust on down the line.
You can buy a new mustang 2 tank too though.
 
I used this after considering advice from different sources. I don't know how easy or expensive it will be to ship to Germany though. My situation was a little different as I had welded on the fuel tank and it was seeping through some porosity in the welds, there were no rust concerns in my case.

 
I started pressure washing. Wich helps a lot. When I bought the car there was 20 year old fuel inside. Its manly black "gum" and a little rust. I will use phosphoric acid based rust converter after using an engine cleaner...
If I'm not happy with the result I will put it onto a concrete mixer with rocks and water inside.
 
Spectra makes new tanks for our IIs, as well as new sending units and mounting straps. The grommet can be sourced from Classic Auto Reproductions.