Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

Yes, shipping is difficult with the size of the tank. Also the new tank is expensive compared to 66 coupe stuff.
But it seems that I will get a good result with my tank. The main issue was the "gum". With engine cleaner applicated for 2h and a second session with the pressure washer it did come out nice. At the moment the phosphoric acid is doing its magic:
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Tomorrow there will be some more pressure washing and than drying.

I ordered this fuel filter:
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I will put two in serial in front of the electric fuel pump that I'm prepared for some gum...
Grommets are already here. I want to get the tank prepared inside this weekend. And next week I will take care of the outside and the straps.
 
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I just found an old picture of the tank. You can see how crappy it was inside. It was really not much effort with the pressure washer, engine cleaner and now the pea... äh... phosphoric acid. :p
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I want to get the tank prepared inside this weekend. And next week I will take care of the outside and the straps.
I love it when a plan comes together.
I just did the last layer of paint. It's a paint that stays a little bit elastic. it will not come of if something scrapes the surface. Its on all my suspension parts and works quite well. But needs very long for drying and you need to put 3 layers on with best 1 day interval.
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100 years
Hopefully! :)

I have found out that for the upper vent VW T3 parts fit with the part number 251201311B and N90100501 for the grommet. By the way: in the end of the build, I will make a gallery of car pictures which parts I used on my car :jester:
The VW valve has a float, which the original doesn't have on my 74. Was there later on a change?
I know that the original vent line goes to the active charcoal canister that is underneath the driverside fender. Can I also run it to the rear wheel well and drop the canister? I'm open to any suggestions and thoughts. I also have a new "universal" canister, but why making it complicated...?! Or should I make Captain Planet happy? I could also run 4180 fuel bowl vents to the canister...

I have a STANT 10559 fuel cap which has - as far as I remeber correct - a vent. Does this combination makes sense?
 
I checked today how the parts work which i ordered for fuel tank ventilation . The vent valve with float works as expected. You can blow air in both directions as long the float is "open", closed it blocks air in both directions. The fuel cap only passes air into the fuel tank.
Will this work?!
As long as the float is open I think it will work correctly, but what happens, when the float is closed because the tank is full, but the car gets warm in the sun will this build up pressure...?! Or will the float only close if a roll over happens?
I still have the old "vent valve" which is just a open fitting without any mechanism to open or close it.
 
I talked to a friend who is working as mechanic for living and he said, that on most car manuals (in Germany) it is stated that slight pressure in the fuel tank can occur. I also have checked, that with the VW T3 float valve there will be always a small space on the top of the tank where air will be trapped and this is sufficient to compensate expansion of the fuel.
Learned something today.
 
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Only little progress because we have now over 95°F...
But tank is in. VW grommet fits perfectly.
fuel filler pipe made from stainless steel 57x2mm pipe is tacked. I use a D1ZZ-9072 grommet (71-73 Mustang) to fit this pipe to the tank. C8ZA-9047 is the right hose to connect the filler pipe to the fuel inlet filler tube from a 69 mustang (C9ZZ-9034-A). Now (with the 1966 289 exhaust manifolds) I should have covered every 1st gen Mustang model in my car. :cool:
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I know that the original vent line goes to the active charcoal canister that is underneath the driverside fender. Can I also run it to the rear wheel well and drop the canister?
I have a STANT 10559 fuel cap which has - as far as I remeber correct - a vent. Does this combination makes sense?

What did you end up doing with the stock canister? I'm about to delete it but am wondering if it was just used for emission standards? Or, is it needed for another purpose? My Cobra ii has the auxiliary tank and the main tank vent joins at the top of the Aux tank just behind the filler cap. From there it goes to the canister under the fender. Can I just run a new line out of the Aux tank coupling with the main tank and let it vent into the atmosphere? Or does it need to go all the way to the canister?
 
The stock canister is still in the fender and will stay there because I don't want to remove the fender...
I will put a new canister to the driver side front wheel well. I have it and want to do something for the environment. But the canister also needs to be attached to the carburetor, if not the system is useless.

Because the original main fuel tank vent has no float, fuel can run this vent line up to the height of the fuel filler neck. It is important that your line will be at some point above the fuel filler neck. In the original setup the line goes at the top of the front wheel well to the canister... so this is in my opinion above of the the highest fuel level possible. Beside that: if your car rolls over the fuel will run completely down this vent line (this is where the VW T3 float valve comes into play).
I think you could also run vent line in your rear wheel well , that ends above the fuel filler neck, but I'm not 100% sure about safety.
I'm also not sure if I would trust this old plastic auxiliary tank... But I don't have one and don't need the additional capacity.
 
I test fitted the subframe connectors today and drilled the holes. I want to run the fuel line on the side of the subframe connector. I'm not sure where to put the electric fuel pump. The lowest point which I can find is near the front leaf spring bracket (where to subframe is installed too). But there is some distance to the fuel tank. Other possibility is to mount the fuel pump near the fuel tank outlet on the same height.
Guys: what is the better option?
 
I know it's not recommended to be that high but I have seen a few mounted to the right of the fuel tank where the muffler usually goes. Otherwise I think near the brake line hose for the rear axle is best.

Have you considered using a fox tank? Then you can have an in tank pump. In the little time I have driven mine I doubt I can go 100 miles before filling up. It does not have the aux tank and only takes 10 gallons when close to E. I don't have a speedo right now and she stays below 50mph so mileage sux but I am always filling it up.
 
Diesels use a lift pump. Is that a possibility? Use an inexpensive pump to bring fuel to engine compartment and the have the high pressure pump next to it? I ran mine on a $20 pump at first but became worried about current draw and went back to mechanical. Other then the noise of the pump it ran great. Be easier to carry a $20 pump in the trunk on trips vs the $100 plus high pressure pump that I've seen Roadkill have trouble with when mounted high.
 
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I will use the Mustang II specific tank. It is now in an excellent condition and if I need to get the tailpipes to the rear bumper, it is the only option for me. I have a pump, that is low pressure (3PSI) to work with carburetors. I know the general advice to install them near the tank and as low as possible. The only thing which is unclear to me is, what is more important low or near the tank. At the spot near the front leaf spring mount is below the fuel tank so, there is a kind of "gravity feed"... This is my prefered option at the moment, but I'm happy for every advice.
 
I will use the Mustang II specific tank. It is now in an excellent condition and if I need to get the tailpipes to the rear bumper, it is the only option for me. I have a pump, that is low pressure (3PSI) to work with carburetors. I know the general advice to install them near the tank and as low as possible. The only thing which is unclear to me is, what is more important low or near the tank. At the spot near the front leaf spring mount is below the fuel tank so, there is a kind of "gravity feed"... This is my prefered option at the moment, but I'm happy for every advice.
More important is near the tank. On our cars, the sending unit is near the bottom of the tank anyway, so it's not nearly as bad as having a pump that has to pull fuel up to the top of the tank if you can't get the pump lower. On ElSuperPinto, the electric pump is mounted in the area above the rear axle.
 
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In addition to @74stang2togo advice I found this installation instruction which says that "The mounting height of the fuel pump should not be more that 18 inches above the lowest point of the fuel tank."
The fuel pump sits now behind the rear axle rubber stop on the frame rail. Think is looks good. Pictures will follow.
I have bought the cupper pipe to bend a fuel line, but I'm not so motivated right now...
 
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I did get up early this morning and bend the fuel line and the tank vent line till the front wheel well and installed the clips that are holding them to the body. The subframe connectors are test fitted and the holes are drilled. And the subframe connectors did get another layer of paint because there where some scratches from the test fit.
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