Yes, shipping is difficult with the size of the tank. Also the new tank is expensive compared to 66 coupe stuff.
But it seems that I will get a good result with my tank. The main issue was the "gum". With engine cleaner applicated for 2h and a second session with the pressure washer it did come out nice. At the moment the phosphoric acid is doing its magic:
Tomorrow there will be some more pressure washing and than drying.
I ordered this fuel filter:
I will put two in serial in front of the electric fuel pump that I'm prepared for some gum...
Grommets are already here. I want to get the tank prepared inside this weekend. And next week I will take care of the outside and the straps.
I love it when a plan comes together.
I just did the last layer of paint. It's a paint that stays a little bit elastic. it will not come of if something scrapes the surface. Its on all my suspension parts and works quite well. But needs very long for drying and you need to put 3 layers on with best 1 day interval.
I have found out that for the upper vent VW T3 parts fit with the part number 251201311B and N90100501 for the grommet. By the way: in the end of the build, I will make a gallery of car pictures which parts I used on my car
The VW valve has a float, which the original doesn't have on my 74. Was there later on a change?
I know that the original vent line goes to the active charcoal canister that is underneath the driverside fender. Can I also run it to the rear wheel well and drop the canister? I'm open to any suggestions and thoughts. I also have a new "universal" canister, but why making it complicated...?! Or should I make Captain Planet happy? I could also run 4180 fuel bowl vents to the canister...
I have a STANT 10559 fuel cap which has - as far as I remeber correct - a vent. Does this combination makes sense?
I checked today how the parts work which i ordered for fuel tank ventilation . The vent valve with float works as expected. You can blow air in both directions as long the float is "open", closed it blocks air in both directions. The fuel cap only passes air into the fuel tank.
Will this work?!
As long as the float is open I think it will work correctly, but what happens, when the float is closed because the tank is full, but the car gets warm in the sun will this build up pressure...?! Or will the float only close if a roll over happens?
I still have the old "vent valve" which is just a open fitting without any mechanism to open or close it.
I talked to a friend who is working as mechanic for living and he said, that on most car manuals (in Germany) it is stated that slight pressure in the fuel tank can occur. I also have checked, that with the VW T3 float valve there will be always a small space on the top of the tank where air will be trapped and this is sufficient to compensate expansion of the fuel.
Learned something today.
Only little progress because we have now over 95°F...
But tank is in. VW grommet fits perfectly.
fuel filler pipe made from stainless steel 57x2mm pipe is tacked. I use a D1ZZ-9072 grommet (71-73 Mustang) to fit this pipe to the tank. C8ZA-9047 is the right hose to connect the filler pipe to the fuel inlet filler tube from a 69 mustang (C9ZZ-9034-A). Now (with the 1966 289 exhaust manifolds) I should have covered every 1st gen Mustang model in my car.