Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

[extra_stout]

I know. All german "permium" carmakers are (if you take realibality and costs for maintenance into account). Porsche sells now more (around 75%) rebadged Audis (everything with 4-doors) with y VW engines than real Porsches... they earn 10 times more per vehicle than Audi...
My neighbor had his brand new Audi A6 (company car) 3 months till the lower control arms where exchanged. 3 months later the new control arms did brake on the autobahn...

But the BMW fan is a 80ties design. And in the 80ties and 90ties the quality of the german premium brands was really good. Also this e-fan was made by Siemens and is over-engineered. And there are many people that use this e fan in different cars, if a pusher fan is required and all are happy with it. Especially that it runs in two levels depending on temperature. So it is always running with half the power, when full power is applied... which helps much with life time of a fan.
Beside that it is cheap if used and you even get a repro for less than 100 bucks. And the e-fan fits like a glove.

 

[extra_stout]

- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring (I ordered set of cables, to get it done)
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week)
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing)
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel (close the unneeded fuel return at the fuel level sending unit)

 

[extra_stout]

- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week) and a simple front hanger solution
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing), not needed enough distance to exhaust
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel (close the unneeded fuel return at the fuel level sending unit)

There is actual much more distance from the hydraulic clutch to the exhaust, than it looks on the picture... will leave this as it is.

I'm very happy with how easy the front hanger solution is. The flex pipe will get the most movement and the rest of the exhaust should not see to much movement. Because I don't run an exhaut crossover, the coupling of both exhaust sides with the front hanger should be a good compromise.

Neutral saftey switch is bridged at the plug and the reverse gear light switch is also wired to the plug. I also put in the o2 sensor.
Now I only need to wrap this piece of the wiring loom that runs to the transmission and than I should only need to do the wiring in the engine bay...

 

[LILCBRA]

I don't think your picture was up the other day when I liked your post, but it seems to me the fuel lines are on the wrong side and pointing the wrong direction. They could probably stay on that side of the carb, but I think the inlet needs to be the other way.

Here is my setup from last year, this is why I'm saying that....

And another old pic of the opposite side

 

[extra_stout]

I know that the fuel line runs on the passenger side, when in stock form. When I put the carb together I swapped the bowls from front and back. The bowls look like they are identical from casting, but are machines different for the fuel inlet. I've also read somewhere that this will work...
On the passenger side there are the heater hoses and it would by tight with the fuel inlet.

 

[Enzio]

- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week) and a simple front hanger solution
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing), not needed enough distance to exhaust
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel (close the unneeded fuel return at the fuel level sending unit)

There is actual much more distance from the hydraulic clutch to the exhaust, than it looks on the picture... will leave this as it is.

I know you're a much better mechanic than me but IMO I'd put something up there to insulate that master cylinder and hose. It's going to get hot.


Neutral saftey switch is bridged at the plug

What do you mean "bridged"?

 

[LILCBRA]

On the passenger side there are the heater hoses and it would by tight with the fuel inlet.

You can barely see a hose clamp in the one picture of my carburetor. It's right below the "4" of the spark plug wire. I obviously run a high rise intake, but I had plenty of room. I think your situation may be different though. Like I said, it should work with the fuel inlets where they are in your pic as long as you turn the fuel line around.

Oh, and as long as you make sure it doesn't interfere with the throttle lever. That could have unfortunate consequences.....

 

[MustangIIMatt]

Holley 4150 Double Pumper Chrome Dual-Feed Fuel Line

Eliminate ugly fittings and adaptors with this chrome dual feed line with mandrel bends and 3/8" hose barb inlet providing excellent fuel flow. Fuel log fits Holley 4150-style mechanical secondary Double Pumper (center hung float bowl) 4-BBL carburetors with 9-1/4" centers.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Get one of those, it's much safer than the hose setup you're running.

 

[Enzio]

- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week) and a simple front hanger solution
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing), not needed enough distance to exhaust
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel (close the unneeded fuel return at the fuel level sending unit)

You're a much better mechanic than I am. IMO I think you should put something up there to shield the hydraulics near the exhaust. It's going to be HOT.

Neutral saftey switch is bridged at the plug

What do you mean by "bridged"?

 

[LILCBRA]

Actually @extra_stout - going back over your thread, you should have no problems running the fuel line on the opposite side as intended. My intake manifold is a knock off of the Performer RPM Air Gap, it looks like you're running the standard Performer RPM. If memory serves, there is a minute difference between the 2 as far as the carb mounting surface height goes, but regardless there should be plenty of room for both the fuel line and the heater hose without causing too much trouble. As I've shown, I run mine that way and don't have a problem with vapor lock or anything concerning the proximity of the heater hoses compared to the fuel line.

One thing I did with my heater hoses that may be different is I ran one of them to a port on the back side of the manifold instead of running parallel with the second hose. That offers more room, you may be able to do the same.

 

[extra_stout]

You're a much better mechanic than I am. IMO I think you should put something up there to shield the hydraulics near the exhaust. It's going to be HOT.

What do you mean "bridged"?

I checked the distance from the exhaust and the hydraulics and it is more than 2 inchs.
Sorry, bad translation. It is a jumper at the plug of the harness, so that I don't need to go in neutral, but the neutral signal is always there.

The dual-feed fuel inlet has a more than fair price. Next time I order oversee I will pick one up.
The throttle can move free with my setup.
The only difference of the bowls is the position of the fuel level plugs... but that is very small difference in height.

 

[General karthief]

You got a fire extinguisher?

 

[extra_stout]

Pictures!

Older post, but I was just sorting pictures.
Selling the car seems to be difficult at the moment (covid). Perhaps I will keep it a little longer...
If it is still there in the next spring, I will put back on the 65 shelby style side exhaust.

 

[IICrew]

@LilCobra I initially used the rear port on my intake for heat but found the heater didn't get as hot as I expected. I did some digging and found references to reducing water flow through the heads when using the rear port. Water flows back to front in the heads. It also follows the path of least resistance. The suggestion was to add a restrictor to the heater hose or avoid the rear port altogether. I placed a temp gauge in the rear port and found a consistent 10 to 20 degrees cooler. I no longer use the rear ports for anything.

 

[LILCBRA]

That's probably the advantage of living in Atlanta - I don't use the heater.
That and I don't drive it either often enough nor in the cold, so it's just a water outlet in my application.

 

[2Blue2]

She's a good looking coupe! I luv coupes!

 

[extra_stout]

I luv coupes!

I luv blue fastbacks. White with blue stripes would also be okay
But she is a nice driver. I can't complain.

 

[extra_stout]

I started soldering, crimping and thinking.
It's looking promising so far. My daughter will visit here grand parents and stays two days...

 

[extra_stout]

This week was very good. I finished the wiring inside of the car, after I had to redo something because of a mistake. But now should everything work as it should. I also finished the wiring harness in the engine bay and did all the big wires today. I'm using the starter that was at the 5.0 explorer engine/4R70W transmission. It should be a Motorcraft NSA3274N, which is the listing on rockauto and it's the mini-starter design, which has a integral solenoid. I was near the point of dropping the original starter relay, but kept it. So I'm more flexible with starter selection if the one I have fails.
I also tested the starter and the starter is doing fine and the engine is turning
Actually I was afraid, that the starter will not work right with that flywheel and bell housing setup.

I ordered some heat shielding for the hydraulics (@Enzio you where right of recommending this), which I also will use for the starter cable.
I still need to do some wiring because there are some additional functions which I need to address:
- cheap add on gauges
- e-fan
- 12v for the e-choke via relay
- 12v for the headlights via relay (the european headlights I have to use for TÜV draw more current than the original ones)
- power source for the electric fuel pump relay


Here is the list:
- final installation of the e-fan
- Finish wiring (80% done)
- carburator needs some acc pump cam and pre adjustment
- reinstallation of the exhaust (there was some welding last week) and a simple front hanger solution
- heat shielding of the hydraulic clutch (at the bell housing), not needed enough distance to exhaust
- fill the cooling system
- get some fuel (close the unneeded fuel return at the fuel level sending unit)

Another thing I'm not sure about: how many coolant drain plugs are at the engine block? Are there 2 per side or 1 per side?

 

[LILCBRA]

I'm not aware of any coolant drains in the block, just freeze plugs. I'd be interested to hear if there actually are drains that I've overlooked - could prove to be most beneficial!