Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

extra_stout · Aug 1, 2021

2Blue2 said:
Whats the v8 on license plate? Just4fun ?

4fun
My 66 coupe had V 289
Every number that referred to 302 or 5.0 where not available or i didn't like them. So I found a combination with V8.
Our Volvo also has a plate with V7 (obviously V70 model) so I want to keep this schema.
V6200 or V6000 would fit an LS2 (6000cm³) or LS3 (6200cm³)...

Potomus Pete said:
V8 plate is going to get him in trouble with the environmental police. That car pollutes for ten cars in Europe

VW diesel?!?

Enzio · Aug 5, 2021

What's with the antenna? It makes the 74 look likes it's going fast in the driveway!

extra_stout · Aug 5, 2021

Enzio said:
What's with the antenna? It makes the 74 look likes it's going fast in the driveway!

It is pre-bend for better aerodynamics, when I'm going real fast...
Never cared really about the antenna, because I will not have a radio installed... I have a V8 (at least the number plates states).

extra_stout · Aug 8, 2021

I was driving yesterday and fixed some issues. I only put 2 of the 4 bolts on, that hold the T5 shifter assembly
It was fixed in some minutes. I went also went to the car wash the first time, the car needs still some polishing.
The car drives nice. The combination of stock springs with PU bushings, stiff side walls and 50 tire section is awesome. It has a ton of grip and the steering is insane direct. Also the VW Polo power steering pump works very well with the fox steering rack and the small steering wheel.

I also wired the lambda sensor up to see where I'm with carb tuning. I'm using a small band sensor, because it is cheap and you only need to hook it up to a voltmeter. If the voltage is between 0,4 and 0,8V your alright.
Seems that my primary jet size is to small. I have installed 64 jets (67 is stock) and if I drive at constant speed it reads 0V (lean). On slight acceleration or hard acceleration everything is fine (its rich and no bog). I think accelerator pumps and power valve are on the safe site.
I also have a little bog, when going from closed throttle to slightly open. I think this could also be related to the transfer slot opening, but I'm unsure how big the influence/amount of fuel from this circuit is in relation to the fuel main jet. Any knowledge about that?

LILCBRA · Aug 8, 2021

Bogging is usually a sign that the accelerator pump isn't being actuated right away which causes a lean condition. The pump should shoot fuel the instant the throttle is moved, so you'll want to adjust that if there is any kind of hesitation with fuel delivery.

General karthief · Aug 8, 2021

I concur with lilcbra.
I don't recall how your timing advance is handled, the timing may need a tweak but check the accl pump first.

extra_stout · Aug 11, 2021

I checked the timing and retarded the timing a bit and reconnected the vaccuum advance (was disconnected and closed, because of knocking, when intake manifold wasn't tight).
acc pump is fine. on medium to hard acceleration car runs rich and pulls hard (!) without bogging. At idle it is also a bit on the rich side. But if I open the throttle just a bit for slight acceleration or if I'm driving at constant speed car is lean. With the vacuum advance it is much better, but a little jiggle is still there. I think it needs larger primary jets. As far as I understand idle and transition circuits work mainly if manifold vacuum is high, so I don't think I have a problem with the transition slot.

extra_stout · Aug 17, 2021

I had 2 hrs to spent on the car:
I filled up 1 qt of cooling water (no leaks, hope this is just from venting)
changed the main jets from 64 to 67 (stock size)
retorqued the intake manifold bolts again ( ty print o leak!)
brake master cylinder is leaking from the cap. It's slightly and I cleaned the gasket area and I tried to bent the holding clip to get some extra clamping force. Hope this solves the issue. Any other recommendations? @Enzio didn't you have a similar problem?!
Sadly it started to rain so there was no test drive...

extra_stout · Aug 18, 2021

Test drive happened today! 67 primary jet size is very good. It is still a bit lean at cruise, but no bogging or anything. Readjusted the idle mixture screws with vacuum gauge and the car runs awesome. Idle is very, very smooth.
brake master cylinder is still leaking...

LILCBRA · Aug 18, 2021

Well, thumbs up on how it's running. Thumbs down on the leaking master cylinder....

Enzio · Aug 19, 2021

extra_stout said:
brake master cylinder is still leaking...

Yes I had that issue. I took the spring and bent it until it was so tight on the cap that I needed to pry it on with a screw driver. I couldn't get it on with my fingers alone. That took care of the problem...so far...

extra_stout · Aug 31, 2021

I was last week with my car at a surveyor who did a value check of my car, which I need for my insurance. This week I will get the document and the value.
Weather outlook is good for the next days, so I hope I can take the car for my first longer ride.

extra_stout · Sep 2, 2021

extra_stout said:
This week I will get the document and the value.

1.500€ more than I expected
replacement value is 20% higher than market value, because there are just few cars available.
Replacement value is what is insured.

extra_stout · Sep 6, 2021

My gauges don't move free. They get stuck and only hitting onto the gauges allows to get the right reading. How to solve this? removal of the instrument cluster and WD40?

manicmechanic007 · Sep 6, 2021

I have been watching your build a little. You did well and the car was in great shape to start with. I also like your choice of parts. You need no advice from me. I am just about to show you MustangII guys what the alignment tool looks like. It will be to a guy like you that I give mine someday. Good job Mustang Master. We used to joke about that body sealer Ford used. It was toxic waste, they mixed it with asbestos and added tar.

manicmechanic007 · Sep 6, 2021

extra_stout said:
My gauges don't move free. They get stuck and only hitting onto the gauges allows to get the right reading. How to solve this? removal of the instrument cluster and WD40?

Unfortunately I do not think your gauges can be fixed. You will need to replace them. The pot is what will be sticky. You could try to push and pull on the needle shaft a bit and lubricating it with electronics cleaner.

LILCBRA · Sep 6, 2021

Do you mean the speedometer? Mine would do that. I ended up just getting a replacement, but I intend to really look into what it'll take to make it work again at some point. Finding replacements us only going to get more difficult as time passes.

extra_stout · Sep 6, 2021

Speedometer works great. It is the fuel tank and water temp gauge that get stuck.

LILCBRA · Sep 7, 2021

extra_stout said:
Speedometer works great. It is the fuel tank and water temp gauge that get stuck.

Can't help with that one.

manicmechanic007 · Sep 7, 2021

Like I said you will probably have to replace those two gauges
All you can do is lightly wiggle the potentiometer shafts around a bit and spray some electronic cleaner in the housing
The gauge shafts are probably a little rusty from the car sitting

extra_stout said:
I was driving yesterday and fixed some issues. I only put 2 of the 4 bolts on, that hold the T5 shifter assembly
It was fixed in some minutes. I went also went to the car wash the first time, the car needs still some polishing.
The car drives nice. The combination of stock springs with PU bushings, stiff side walls and 50 tire section is awesome. It has a ton of grip and the steering is insane direct. Also the VW Polo power steering pump works very well with the fox steering rack and the small steering wheel.

I also wired the lambda sensor up to see where I'm with carb tuning. I'm using a small band sensor, because it is cheap and you only need to hook it up to a voltmeter. If the voltage is between 0,4 and 0,8V your alright.
Seems that my primary jet size is to small. I have installed 64 jets (67 is stock) and if I drive at constant speed it reads 0V (lean). On slight acceleration or hard acceleration everything is fine (its rich and no bog). I think accelerator pumps and power valve are on the safe site.
I also have a little bog, when going from closed throttle to slightly open. I think this could also be related to the transfer slot opening, but I'm unsure how big the influence/amount of fuel from this circuit is in relation to the fuel main jet. Any knowledge about

Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

extra_stout

Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches

extra_stout

extra_stout

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

extra_stout

extra_stout

extra_stout

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches

extra_stout

extra_stout

extra_stout

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

extra_stout

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

manicmechanic007

Similar threads

Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency