Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

There is a good but expensive company. I have the u-joints already here, so I will install and see what the outcome is. I also know how to balance with weights or with hose clamps. And I didn't check driveline angles...

Do you think, that balancing is needed, if u-joints are replaced anyway?
U-joints need replacement because the are the original ones and the seals are brittle and partial gone.

I cut the dampener off, when I did the V8+transmission swap, cause I read what you said already here around. Vibration is currently not a big issue. I thought, that new U-joints and measuring of the drive line angles is the most useful.
I had my 66 drive shaft completely overhauled by the company (paint stripping, new u joints, balancing and painting) that was 240€. For ~550€ you get a drive shaft built to your specs. But with inflation you will now pay very likely more.
I try to do it myself. Noise from the diff, when warm is the most annoying issue... right now. But I still have the option to remove the DB killer

Hmmm... Had yesterday a very nice drive around here with all the colors autumn is showing. I will post some pics. Sadly starting the car was harder every stop. Today I measured the voltage of the battery... 11,8V. Alternator is not working. More luck than brains, that I made it back home.
I hope it was a loose contact of the wire that goes to the I terminal... If not I need to buy a new one or read trough what else the issue could be.

I have a 130A 3G from Ford (Ford part number F3DZ-10346-B). I think it was an issue with the exciter wire (I terminal). The battery is charging with an external device.I need to wait till it is full, to check my new wiring of the exciter wire. I have an 500 Ohm resistor there, because this is what the wiring diagrams for this swap are telling, but it seems you do not need the resistor. I measured only 2V after the resistor; 12V before. I need to recheck that, and get rid of the resistor. It seems it is not needed with an internal voltage regulator of the modern alternators. The old voltage regulator is removed from the car.
I hate wiring, as many other do...

Removed the resistor. Than it was at 15.1V; with resistor 15V. Then I stepped at the throttle and voltage dropped to battery voltage (12.5v). Seems that the alternator is toast. That sucks. Good thing, everything works as usually, when the battery is loaded.

Does someone understand what the light green/red wire does? I know this is the exciter wire. But I do not understand why there are two options (see chart below):
- wiring with switched 12V
- wiring with bulb/resistor in parallel (or just a resistor without bulb)
My voltage drops from 12V to 9V after the resistor (without running engine, just key on ignition). Can this be the root cause for the failure? The big difference in voltage keeps the alternator fully charging the battery, even if it is near fully loaded. I also had the impression, that the alternator takes a lot of torque from the engine, when cold or at idle.
I measured the resistance of around 400 Ohm. That is near the recommendation... But I don't think that a regular idiot light has such a big voltage drop. Did I mess something up and do I have the wrong resistor?
If I remove the resistor there is still around 0,1V less on the exciter wire than on the battery itself. Is this voltage drop enough and can I leave the resistor away?
Do I need a new alternator in any way?
Sorry... wiring, DC electrics, AC electrics... that is all devils work.