Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

extra_stout

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I checked the whole internet and didn't find any bigger rotors with 4 lug that would fit with the bigger brake kit...
bye bye minilites, welcome black steel wheels from a random french car.
The advantage: I save a lot of money.
 

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extra_stout

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Your right, that is an option. But I think both patterns are very close and welding of on or two holes could help, but doesn't work on the brake discs...
I'm not sure. The steel wheels are cheap... it is an easy solution to get the car onto the road.
 

extra_stout

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There are subtly different sizes for sure
Try a different brand?

I've never heard of having to file the pipe down to work, get the right size?
I had to buy 3 time to get right size last time
M2 parts are listed incorrectly often in the parts books of the world.
Your so right... rockauto carrys two types of donut gaskets from the same manufacturer, which a different in size. I should have looked better in the beginning.
 

extra_stout

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I picked up the steel wheels yesterday. They fit very good, though a bit less backspacing would look nicer. But I'm happy with the D-shaped holes.
IMG_20200509_184014.jpg

I ordered also some sporty tires :rock:

2682656.jpg


And I fiddled succesfully with the console and the shifter boot of a 66 mustang. The console is now in stock position again and I cut and welded an lever to the T5 shifter to get the shifter rod in the right place. The threaded rod will be replaced by a stainless steel pipe later on with a bend to get the shifter knob 2-3 inches backwards. When I have it all apart again I will make more pictures.
IMG_20200327_163249.jpg
 

extra_stout

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Ordering the tires was a complete disaster, but now I have a semi-slicks (for a semi-daily driver; i hope you get it).
Ordering subframe connectors from stumbys fabwork was completely easy and unproblematic compared to the tires (even if there is a big sea between us). Funny that his name is typical for the area where I'm living...

I like the low tire height on the 15'' wheels. If I would use 20mm spacers on all 4 corners, it would look perfect. Also lowering is needed if the car is registered and approved by TÜV. Also the black steelies look is quite okay...
reifen.jpg
auto.jpg


I had to trim the upper control arm just a little bit on the front side:
trimmed_control_arm.jpg

And even start to think about the exhaust options again:
exhaust.jpg
Using the old over axle pipes with the old muffler and everything upfront 2 1/2'' stainless, which has the downside of beeing very small (46mm outer diameter) in the back. The upside is: easier to get TÜV.
Other way would be to build also the over axle pipe in 2 1/2'' stainless from scratch and use this SS muffler with x pipe inside, but the is a PITA.
I tend to use the old exhaust part to get this car done and TÜVed. If the car has already TÜV, redoing the exhaust for a "dumped" setup is an option.
Perhaps I will wait if LILCBRA is in 1-2 years still happy with his current setup. ;)

The sound wiht x-crossover muffler could be similar to this:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlTaF10HzbE
 

extra_stout

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The pypes downpipe for 66 mustang which i started as an basis is now modified. I wanted to have some flex pipe just in front of the transmission crossmember and the exhaust hangers will be mounted to the crossmember. This takes movment from the rest of the exhaust...
I had to cut up the driverside downpipe because of my hydraulic clutch setup. If it was a cabel clutch the downpipe could have fit without modification.
I tacked it with my stick welder in my garage, then at a friends place we (mainly ma friend) weldet it up with his TIG.
IMG_20200606_175252.jpg
IMG_20200614_180255_210.jpg
 

extra_stout

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the subframe connectors arrived yesterday, they look nice. But where should I support the car? Isn't it important to have the weight on the wheels?
I could drive on ramps with the front tires and the put some jack stands below the rear axel... should I?
And another question: should I first install everything like exhaust, tank and interior to get the right weight?
 

LILCBRA

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Yes, it has to mimic having the weight on its wheels so the body is in it's "natural" state. I don't necessarily think that the interior, fuel tank, etc need to be installed, but it definitely wouldn't hurt. Basically the sub frame connectors are for eliminating chassis flex, so having all of that installed may flex the body a little, but I don't think that installing all of it afterward would cause any problems.
 
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74stang2togo

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the subframe connectors arrived yesterday, they look nice. But where should I support the car? Isn't it important to have the weight on the wheels?
I could drive on ramps with the front tires and the put some jack stands below the rear axel... should I?
And another question: should I first install everything like exhaust, tank and interior to get the right weight?
Yes, ramps under front tires and jack stands from anybody but Harbor Freight under the rear axle.

As far as installing stuff to get the weight "right", I wouldn't worry about it. The car wouldn't flex that much from the roughly 100-200lbs worth of parts you're talking about. The reason for supporting it under the wheels and axles is so the car doesn't bow like it will when supported from pinch welds, crossmembers, or frame points.

IIs flex a LOT when supported from those points. Even with SFCs installed, ElSuperPinto flexes enough that opening doors while it's on my lift at work is difficult, and they don't re-close.
 

extra_stout

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Thanks! Now I'm sure what to do.
My 66 coupe is also flexing like you described (even with the export brace). My MII is much better, it has only 60.000 miles. I hope that the SFC will prevent flexing in the future...
 

extra_stout

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I did both sides, because I don't have a real wheel alignment and don't wanted to start again, when the alignment is done... thought the car could be nearly symmetrical.
 
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extra_stout

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I just saw your post about the interference on your car. In your case it was just a tiny bit. In my case (because of the backspacing of the wheel), I had to cut much more away.
By the way: the same blue felpro donuts are lying on my bench :nice:
 
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extra_stout

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Here are some pictures of the sn95 94-95 5.0 V8 bell housing from installation. Again my engine doesn't sit in the stock location. The transmission mount sits on the same level as the C4 (but elongated backwards), hence the engine sits 1 inch higher to get keep the right angle of around 3° engine up. Also the engine is move a bit forward to keep the stock V6 drive shaft.

IMG_20181002_122302.jpg
IMG_20181102_140400.jpg
IMG_20181102_140445.jpg
IMG_20181102_140454.jpg
 
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