There is definitely a joke here, tiny cranks being stroked and wet pu......ummm...I don't really want to be banned so I will leave it there.....
Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Welding Holes in My Rear
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
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You got to look out for the angry wet pu...those are trouble. 
Great progress Dave.
Like mike stated they should measure the cylinder first so you know what slugs to order. I’m not sure how much over bore a 6cyl can take.
Great progress Dave.
Like mike stated they should measure the cylinder first so you know what slugs to order. I’m not sure how much over bore a 6cyl can take.
I’m going to call a couple places today to see if I can find out something. A 5.0 sc engine might be kind of neat. Probably not possible, but let’s find out, shall we?You got to look out for the angry wet pu...those are trouble.
Great progress Dave.
Like mike stated they should measure the cylinder first so you know what slugs to order. I’m not sure how much over bore a 6cyl can take.
Nah, busy day. I'll try calling now to Tom Morana, let's see if they work customer friendly hours.
Actual matter is required in order to release energy.
: Soooooo... Pretty sure that's not gonna work.
There is definitely a joke here, tiny cranks being stroked and wet pu......ummm...I don't really want to be banned so I will leave it there.....
You may be right.
So, check out the difference between the SC block caps/mains and a roller 302 block. You can really see how much material Ford took out of the 302 and why they typically fail in this area.
Dave's SC block:
My roller 302:
And a shot of my roller 351 for comparison:
Dave's SC block:
My roller 302:
And a shot of my roller 351 for comparison:
Dang Dave. You have accomplished quite a bit and this thread has taken a turn towards softcore ****! You just need a bore gauge (cheap is ok) and a good mic and you can measure you bore (holes) yourself. (damn now I am adding to this filth) 
I would bet the max overbore is .030. Maybe .060 if you sonic check the block to check the cylinder wall thicknesss. Since that definitely isn't a thin wall casting, I would believe you have some room there. Probably want to bore to get a few extra cubes anyway and make sure the holes are actually round. No since cheaping out on the cylinders and having all that lovely boost pressure find its way past the rings!!!
I would bet the max overbore is .030. Maybe .060 if you sonic check the block to check the cylinder wall thicknesss. Since that definitely isn't a thin wall casting, I would believe you have some room there. Probably want to bore to get a few extra cubes anyway and make sure the holes are actually round. No since cheaping out on the cylinders and having all that lovely boost pressure find its way past the rings!!!
Dang Dave. You have accomplished quite a bit and this thread has taken a turn towards softcore ****! You just need a bore gauge (cheap is ok) and a good mic and you can measure you bore (holes) yourself. (damn now I am adding to this filth)
I would bet the max overbore is .030. Maybe .060 if you sonic check the block to check the cylinder wall thicknesss. Since that definitely isn't a thin wall casting, I would believe you have some room there. Probably want to bore to get a few extra cubes anyway and make sure the holes are actually round. No since cheaping out on the cylinders and having all that lovely boost pressure find its way past the rings!!!
While it is possible to check your cylinder bore yourself, it is one measuring device that I'd never buy because it'd get used once every 10-20 YEARS...
I agree Dave, @Davedacarpainter you're probably gonna wanna just go ahead and just consider having it bored.
The bore on the engine is 3.810...and from the pics looks like you could almost get away with leaving it standard,..but it's gonna take somebody with a dial bore gauge to tell the tale on that.
Here's the really cool part about boring the engine.
If the Pistons that you buy are truly " custom", they'll make them for your engine in any bore size that you dictate.
(Like .010 over 3.820 final bore)
As long as the cylinder will "clean up" at that minimal over bore, keeping it small has multiple benefits:
It'll leave more material, cylinder wall integrity will be greater. it'll stay round better, allowing for more boost, a better sealing ring ( more power, less blow by), and over bore room should some calamity occur in the future.
*The only limitation to that, is being able to get a good cylinder ring at your chosen bore size.
But guess what? A 3.810 Essex, bored .010 over uses the same ring that a Buick 3.8 uses when bored .020.
(Or Ford 2.3 4 banger bored .040 if it makes you feel better)
When I built my engine, I had all 6 cylinders bored .186 and had them sleeve all six holes. #1 was so badly worn it couldn't be saved, so rather than sleeve one, I had them sleeve 'em all. A stock 250 I-6 has a 3.6820 bore. It is exclusive to itself...you cannot get a decent ring at that bore size. So my engine with its brand new standard bores, was bored .020 to 3.700, so I could use a better piston ring.
( 3.700 is the bore of the Subaru Boxer engine used in WRX.)
I was just looking at your engine online..I'm sure that you know that the factory made that engine in sizes 3.9 up to 4.2......they never changed the bore to get there, only increasing the stroke each time.
It looks like a great engine to me,..and as pointed out by Nik,..is built better from the factory than any Windsor with regard to main cap strength..I will really look hard at using this engine should the monster engine fail bad enough to force a start over.
Great choice in the engine Dave,..I'm glad I talked you into it.
Yes. Meaning it will help satisfy the Tim "The Toolman" Taylor side of me. Though it would mean changing to a non-forged crank. With the power levels I'm seeking though, it doesn't matter. I found one guy online that says he got 900hp out of the non-forged crank and no twisting problems. Seems like an engine tested on a wishful thinking dyno, but I'm sure he has way more than i'm even thinking about for mine.
Fact is, I can get a 4.3 or 4.4 stroker kit for it. All's it takes is money......
I agree that it is a nice little engine to make good power with.
I'm still in limbo on exactly what i will do for the rotating assembly. There are lots of options. First though, I think I'll get the block dipped and have the sonic testing done. Then I can start seeing what it needs as in overboring, etc...
It's really freaking dirty right now and the cylinders are a bit crusty. With my cheap little digital micrometer I could check the size close to the top. They're roughly 3.805 with a questionable gauge that can't measure deeper into the bore. What does that mean? Pretty much nothing, I'll get the machine shop to do the measurements for me when I drop it off for the cleaning.
This means it'll go to the machine shop two times. Before you say how stupid this is, read my reasoning.
1. I won't be able to spend the big bucks on this engine until the end of January. So no rotating assembly till then. If the shop will require it to do the work on the block, that puts that on hold. Yet I will need a bore size to select the pistons. So it might possibly get bored out at the initial drop off stage. I'll have a long talk with the machinist.
2. Getting it cleaned will allow proper measurements of the cylinders to be made and get an accurate idea if it needs to be bored out and, therefore, of what sized pistons I will need.
3. Getting it cleaned, and decked too while it's there, and then getting it back will allow me to do some of the pretty making stuff I want to do to the block. Not painting it yet, that'll happen after the last of the machine work that might be required.
4. Sure, i could just wait and have it all done at once, and maybe I still will. Not doing anything right now is about to drive me insane.
I'm kind of wondering what I'm going to do while the blocks away, maybe I need to start looking at the sc seats for entertainment.
You can only square deck the block, which will make for an unecessary process. Because you'll want to have them deck the block to zero deck height after that. And that can only be accomplished with the Pistons mocked up in the 4 outside holes..so bottom line...
You'll be waiting on that process ( decking) until January too.
So then, cleaning, checking the integrity of the block and measurements for the first trip.
Thanks for the help thinking through this mike.
A >4L boosted V6 makes me all giggly. That's bigger than some Euro and Japanese V8s.
Me too Nik!
It'll seem slow since I can't start buying the fancy stuff till january though,
I like steve's build a lot. My little M90 won't seem too trick.
Right now I'm salivating over the rotating assembly I'll be getting.
Come January I'll be blowing a good $8k to $9k on the engine. I'm excited and feeling a little nauseous at the same time.
The choice right now is between the 4.3l and the 4.4l stroker kit. I've got some serious calls to make between Super Six and Tom Morana.
For those that are interested, the regular 3.8 block shouldn’t be bored over by more than .065”.
I still need to see if the sc engine is the same.
I still need to see if the sc engine is the same.
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