I’m so doing the motor mounts regardless. They’re shot anyway. Sfc would just be to better the suspensionSFCs are nice, but they don’t provide a night/day difference in chassis rigidity on an SN-95 as they do on a Fox. If it’s between SFCs and engine mounts, I’d go with the mounts if the originals are in dire need of replacement.
I see everyone seems to vote mm on other threads as well. But is there a more budget friendly option that should work as well? @95BlueStallion appreciate the feedbackLEDs was one of my favorite mods in my '95. SFCs are still worth doing in an SN, and you really shouldnt bother with anything besides Maximum Motorsports full length weld on connectors.
Sounds good. I only suggested that course of action because your post read as though you only had money for one or the other. You still can't go wrong with SFCs on any unibody car. I have the Maximum Motorsports versions with seat brackets on my '95 Cobra.I’m so doing the motor mounts regardless. They’re shot anyway. Sfc would just be to better the suspension
I’m seriously considering those sve ones for 100, has the reinforcements as well. Thoughts? @95BlueStallion
I know it doesn’t seem like much as in $60 but for me that’s difficult
I always try to find the balance between price and quality that I’m happy with, I found these as well, UPR is supposed to be a solid brand right.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-full-length-subframe-connectors.html
Here's what you get when you look at something like the UPR pieces that you just pictured....
A warm and fuzzy.
Just because they fit does not automatically make it worth your while to install them. The wall thickness of those connectors look to be about .o60"
Buy them, put one end in a vise, grab the other end with a pair of channel locks, and see how much force it takes for you to twist them.
I bet they twist like mad.
"Something is better than nothing" is all you'll be doing for yourself when you add a cheap set like that to the floor of your car.
SF connectors in these cars are a big deal. They can go from adding the "modest" rigidity that you'll get from the addition of something like those UPR pieces, to making the chassis so rigid that you can jack up the whole back of the car from one side. The more rigid you make it, the less of an instance of chassis twist. If you control chassis twist, the car handles better, it 60 foots better, it rides better, it doesn't rattle every damn thing loose, every time you go down a rough stretch of road, and the floors don't rip.
If you can weld, make your own..it's probably the easiest project to make a set of SF connectors on the planet.
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