Front Suspension Choices

[68rustang]

I have a 68 coupe project that is currently in body shell form waiting for a driver side fender. I have just moved and the car needs to be transported to the new house. So I figured now is as good a time as any to get a few new suspensin bits to make the car moveable. I was hoping to get some insight as to what you guys recommend as far as vendors and such.

I was looking at mustangs plus stuff (grab a track), laurel mountain mustang (midolyne), and I have a P-S-T catalog (polygraphite). I do not have the cash for TCP, Global West, Cobra Automotive or Griggs stuff. Basically I am doing a 1" shelby drop, 1" lowered front coils, mid-eye rear leafs, and maybe some underriders.

I NEED the COMPLETE suspension, everything.

Just wondering if anyone has any good or bad to say about these guys, or possibly somebody else that I am not aware of.

 

[xoxbxfx]

I have a 68 coupe project that is currently in body shell form waiting for a driver side fender. I have just moved and the car needs to be transported to the new house. So I figured now is as good a time as any to get a few new suspensin bits to make the car moveable. I was hoping to get some insight as to what you guys recommend as far as vendors and such.

I was looking at mustangs plus stuff (grab a track), laurel mountain mustang (midolyne), and I have a P-S-T catalog (polygraphite). I do not have the cash for TCP, Global West, Cobra Automotive or Griggs stuff. Basically I am doing a 1" shelby drop, 1" lowered front coils, mid-eye rear leafs, and maybe some underriders.

I NEED the COMPLETE suspension, everything.

Just wondering if anyone has any good or bad to say about these guys, or possibly somebody else that I am not aware of.

I would suggest a complete rebuild kit from laurel mountain or canadian mustang... just get a whole kit with upper and lower control arms, then I would look into some Dr Gas progressive rate springs (made by eibach) and some KYB shocks on all the corners. If you ahve the cash, get a front sway bar.

 

[68rustang]

I would suggest a complete rebuild kit from laurel mountain or canadian mustang... just get a whole kit with upper and lower control arms, then I would look into some Dr Gas progressive rate springs (made by eibach) and some KYB shocks on all the corners. If you ahve the cash, get a front sway bar.

Thanks for the reply, that is the kind of info I am looking for.

Does anyone know anything about the Midolyne Bushings that Laurel Mountain Has in thier suspension kits? According to them they are "similar" to the PST polygraphite.

 

[xoxbxfx]

Thanks for the reply, that is the kind of info I am looking for.

Does anyone know anything about the Midolyne Bushings that Laurel Mountain Has in thier suspension kits? According to them they are "similar" to the PST polygraphite.

I bought the Canadian Musatng/ American Pony kit a while ago and havent had a problem with it. Worked well and doesnt squeek. If Im correct, if you use the PST setup it may squeek and you are supposed to apply a special lube to prevent it. Polygraphite is supposed be good for stiffness and last.

 

[tacoy]

DONT USE MIDOLYNE MY BUSHINGS ARE CRACKING AND THEY'VE BEEN ON FOR 1 YEAR..My washers on the sway bar and upper ball joint are cracking. Very pissed off at American Pony (Canadian)

 

[TurboDoctor]

soak all your bushings in rubbing alchohol and powder graphite for a few days before you install them. no squeaks no cracks.

 

[D.Hearne]

Also change your strut rods if using performance bushings, there are several members here that have had the rods break from the polymer bushings.

 

[gp001]

The PST polygraphite bushings are polyurethane bushings impregnated with graphite. They are self lubricating and do not squeak. From their site:

fter years of development, PST introduced POLYGRAPHITE®, a graphite-impregnated high performance bushing designed for street, strip or track driven cars. Now all cars can have the road handling characteristics of polyurethane bushings with virtually no deflection and the self-lubricating qualities of graphite.

 

[xoxbxfx]

The PST polygraphite bushings are polyurethane bushings impregnated with graphite. They are self lubricating and do not squeak. From their site:

fter years of development, PST introduced POLYGRAPHITE®, a graphite-impregnated high performance bushing designed for street, strip or track driven cars. Now all cars can have the road handling characteristics of polyurethane bushings with virtually no deflection and the self-lubricating qualities of graphite.

damn... I had a feeling I was backwards on the PST thing... thansk for clearing that up

 

[68rustang]

soak all your bushings in rubbing alchohol and powder graphite for a few days before you install them. no squeaks no cracks.

What does that do for you? Well I mean how does it work?

 

[DarkBuddha]

Things I can recommend from experience:

1) PST polygraphite is damn good stuff. I first rebuilt my suspension in '90 (or was it '91?) with PST polygraphite bushings all around. It dramatically improved handling and response, even if it did stiffen the ride just a bit. I drove the car daily for the next 4 years, with no problems, and no squeaks; then the car sat for near 8 years. Last year, while restoring the car, we were going to rebuild the suspension again with PST stuff, but all of the old bushings were is such good shape that we didn't need to replace any of them at all. :worship:

2) Global West subframe connectors... I know you mentioned you don't have cash for GW stuff, but the subframe connectors aren't that expensive, and they are so worth it. They really stiffen the chasis and fit great. Even if you don't get GW connectors, I highly recommend getting some from somewhere; probably the single most noticeable and worthwhile mod/improvement I've made.

3) NPD's 5 leaf mideye rear springs are also very effective. I suspect they are the same stuff everybody sells, but I don't know for sure. Definitely sured up the rear suspension big time; taut but not too harsh when combined with a good, but not too stiff, gas shock (at least on my '70). I also got their "high performance" urethane shackle kit. I don't have a ton of driving time on the car since these mods, but they seem great so far...

4) Addco sway bars... look great, fit great, and work great; definitely effective at minimizing body roll. I've got a 1" front, 3/4" rear... Again, I don't have a ton of time on the car with these, but I can attest to their effectiveness already. These are available through most vendors...

Hope this helps...

 

[68rustang]

Hope this helps...

DB thanks for the info. I already have welded on some Competition engineering subframe connectors. The car is just a body right now waiting for me to make up my mind on the suspension choices.

What I know so far is I am going with the progressive rate front springs, 4.5 mid eye leafs out back. I am just trying to decide if the PST is worth the $$$ over the midolyne. Well really, what the heck is midolyne?

 

[gp001]

damn... I had a feeling I was backwards on the PST thing... thansk for clearing that up

No prob, that's what we're all here for.

My PST polygraphite bushings show almost no wear (with my driving that's impressive ) and they still don't squeak. A friend of mine rebuilt his front end a year after I did mine and he used polyurethane. Everytime he pulls in the driveway I smile as his car greets me with a "squeeeeeeak"

 

[Dartol]

Strut Rod Bushing

Global West has this warning on the strut rod bushing:

Caution: Too high of a durometer bushing in this location can cause strut rod failure due to too much resistance in the direction of pivot. That is why we prefer rubber in this location over other high density plastics

They sell a 'high durometer' rubber bushing for it.

Also change your strut rods if using performance bushings, there are several members here that have had the rods break from the polymer bushings.

 

[Dartol]

This is a great thread! I am about to rebuild the suspension on my '70 Mach 1. I am glad to hear feedback from people running different setups.