King Cobra Build in Oregon

  • Sponsors (?)


There seems to be a lot of choices when it comes to getting a replacement rack and pinnion.... Just doing a nice driver and weekend show car. Don't want to modify much. So any suggestions for a simple replacement? Seems prices range from $250 to $350 for the same thing...i assume the new ones come from the same place in China.
 
There seems to be a lot of choices when it comes to getting a replacement rack and pinnion.... Just doing a nice driver and weekend show car. Don't want to modify much. So any suggestions for a simple replacement? Seems prices range from $250 to $350 for the same thing...i assume the new ones come from the same place in China.

Sorry, I'm no help with this one. I used a junkyard manual rack after checking it out to make sure it was good. :shrug:

I'm sure if you pick one out from a decent company you'd probably be alright.
 
I used a new Cardone rack not a Dorman as I said earler. Sorry. They are $100 more than a rebuilt. This is my forever car and it's worth not redoing everything repeatedly to me. Plus I like the aluminum rack vs the black painted steel ones. It looks much nicer and goes with the weight reduction theme I have going on. Although I doubt there is much if any difference in weight.
 
I finally found a VDO Tack for my dash. Almost had to buy a complete 6 gauge set, but someone on ebay heard my prayers and posted a new one. I hit the buy it now button as soon as I saw it. Very happy. Now back to the rack and pinion issue I have created for myself. What is the difference between the "updated" TRW design and the OEM design. I see the 16 on center part for the OEM and he 15.5 on center for the TRW. Is there a difference in operation? AND I am thinking of filling the holes in the sheet metal in the engine compartment. Mostly I am finding folks filling the holes using a welder. But I don't have one and don't want to buy one and learn. There must be an easy way. I was thinking using bondo/filler and placing something on the wheel well side to create support?? Wanting to finish the engine compartment this week before removing front suspension for winter work.
 
I see the 16 on center part for the OEM and he 15.5 on center for the TRW. Is there a difference in operation?
The TRW design will have a more direct ratio. With servo assistance you get a very, very good feel of the steering. Very sportive with the smaller aftermarket steering wheel I'm running too. Beside it is much lighter because it is a more narrow design and with aluminum housing.
With the offset bushings there is no other mod on the steering/body required, because the standard tie rod ends can be used.
The attachment thread/fitting for the steering lines are in the same position, but are different. They usually come with an adapter for AN6, where you have big aftermarket support. I did my own steering lines because I'm using a ZF pump from a small VW (also called GM Type 2 pump, even it is a ZF design) in a custom auxiliary belt set up.
If you want a buy-and-forget-solution, I think you will be happier with a stock steering rack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Started doing some work on my spoiler ( not mine, the spoiler on the Mustang). One end is broken. I started building up support with fiberglass sheets for support then placing fiberglass filler on the outside. then sand and paint. I am wondering how strong this will be regarding the bolt/fastener that attaches to the trunk lid. My second question regards attaching to the lid. I had to purchase a replacement lid. This one does not have the holes for the spoiler. I will put holes in before painting. However, I am thinking using the 3M mounting double sided tape. Any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • Spoiler Broken 2.jpg
    Spoiler Broken 2.jpg
    489.1 KB · Views: 57
I doubt tape would hold over time at speed. I would imagine there is a lot of force applied to the rear spoiler. Meant to provide downforce...err. umm sales numbers.

Before drilling holes make sure that your going to use the stock spoiler. Iirc the aftermarket spoilers have different hole locations.

I used jb weld to attach the front bolts on my hood scoop. It's held up for 500 miles or so.
 
Thinking about getting a set of 15X9 used Center Line rims. Ebay item 203587862242. Two of my rims need to have some corrosion removed. Thinking it would be about the same cost to get these. Would look nice with wide rims on rear. Looks like they should clean up easy.... Finished painting the engine compartment yesterday. Repaired areas with light paint and several runs. New rack and pinion arrived today. Purchased item eBay item number: 144067694182. They responded to several emails. Seems they are standing behind their parts. Just about have all my parts. Just need a new heater fan motor.........anyone needs a bunch of empty cardboard boxes????
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
They didn't list the backspacing for those wheels in the description. The pics look like they might be too deep and would stick out quite a bit, but it's hard telling just looking at the pics. :shrug:

Hope the r&p works for you!

Oh, and :worthlesb









:jester:
 
My rims now are 8 inch and there seems to be lots of room. Still waiting for reply regarding what the back spacing is. I did find some BF Goodrich T/A RAdials that should fit. I like the raised white letter tires. Wish I could find some Goodyear with just the "Goodyear" in letters. Found stick on letters.. :doh:
 
I have 8 inch wheels on the back of mine, it'll depend on the tire you go with. I have 265/50-15 and had to bang a few spots with a hammer in the inner well and on big bumps/dips it rubs the wheel well seam lip. I'm pretty sure they're 4-1/2" back space, but I'd have to refresh my memory. Could always go through the wheel thread in the technical sticky to see what others have gotten away with though, it's in there. But if it's 4" back spacing, the same size tire might work.... :shrug:
 
I just cruised through the final few pages of that thread, here's the post where I finally mounted and installed the rear wheels on my car.

Alright-I FINALLY broke down and bought the new wheels and tires, well rear tires as of right now. I don't have the fronts yet, no one has the size in stock (165/80-15's on 15x4's), so they will have to wait until next weekend. But, I have the rears- 15x8 with 265/50-15's. I have to say I love it!! Anyways, since there are only a few pics with this size, I thought I would post the few I took of mine earlier today. Sorry for the relatively crappy quality-I took them with my phone. If anyone is interested, I can take a few more with my actual camera.

4716608482_b7dc41e6b7_b.jpg


4716608178_4e9191daec_b.jpg


4716608020_a0f7c49fcd_b.jpg


:rock: :D
 
Thanks for the information and mostly for the photos. That's the look I am looking for. Right now my rims are 15 X 8 front and rear. Rear tires are 205/60/R15, front are 195/50/R15. Fronts look good now. I will keep this information when I get ready for new tires. I need to remove the rims and polish them. One rim has a small area of corrosion i need to repair. Most likely need to take to a machine shop. Thus the idea of the 15X9. They don't look bad. Just need to be polished. Here a photo of the engine compartment. While the painting equipment is out, I am going to spray all the trim black.
 

Attachments

  • Engine Comp.jpg
    Engine Comp.jpg
    449.1 KB · Views: 60
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 4 users
They move around alot with the changes in temp. Expansion/Contraction. I doubt the tape could hold them.
The 3M tape held on side strips on my repainted Cougar for years and was still a PITA when I wanted to change the color. It held the rear window plastic Wingdings on my wife’s Neon. The foam has some flex, but it is tough.
I checked on the Cobra grille insert in my LX, and there are two ugly screws through the top.
Either way, your’s will not go anywhere once installed.
 
Here is a photo showing the corrosion on the rim(s) i have. This shows the one with the most. I tried to grind some off with a hand held air grinder and about 80 grit. Anything less then that did not seem to do anything. there are scratches. Don't know if I can get those out. Could not find anything on the net showing how to clean this. I like the rims and they polish nicely. Any ideas how to clean these? Can't find these new with 4 lug. However, as mentioned, there is a set on ebay. Mine are 15X8 Ebay rims are 15X9 with a 4 3/4 backspace. Mine are 4 1/4. I have 209/60/R15 now. Lots of room. Thinking 225/60/15 should fit fine. A buddy just bought a 63 Falcon Station Wagon. Very nice.
 

Attachments

  • Rim Corr2.jpg
    Rim Corr2.jpg
    497.1 KB · Views: 61
  • Falcon Side.jpg
    Falcon Side.jpg
    321.2 KB · Views: 64
  • Rear Rim Yelllow.jpg
    Rear Rim Yelllow.jpg
    329.2 KB · Views: 62
  • Sad
Reactions: 1 user
OEM wheels that have that type of acne can often be diamond cut and clear powder coated again. The rivet heads will make this type of cut problematic.
You might need to run a power ball, (a polishing thing on a drill, not a lottery ticket), with Flitz or whatever metal polish you like to shine the good aluminum and just keep it from getting worse.
 
I had this on my 79 Mustang when I lived in Germany while in the Air Force. It was caused by salt and chemicals used on the autobahn. Paint on rims was not able to stop the salt. Ford just gave me a letter for a new set when I returned to the US. I was not the only one. Took Mustang to the Ford dealer in Sacramento. Gave them the letter. They though it was a joke until they called Ford. It was a 1979 Cobra with the turbo engine. got recalled while in Germany. Seemed the turbo could not take the German Autobahn. Replaced it and did a bunch or other stuff. Added an oil cooler and put a new computer (the European one). When I took it to the Ford dealer about the rims they asked why I had all these updates. They were impressed. A salesman really wanted it. Traded it in on a Van. Got more then I paid for it............anyway I am guessing I should get the 15 X 9's and polish them. Don't think i will be able to get the scratches out.....Mean while I am still waiting on my Edlebrock heads......just saying......Starting on wiring and such in the dash to install OEM 8 track and custom dash.