I will cut a hole in the floor and flintstone the car before that ever happensLS swap...
I will cut a hole in the floor and flintstone the car before that ever happensLS swap...
I wonder how they set it up for reverse rotation. Wonder if it would make all forward gears reverse. Would love to do that to a fox and race someone in reverse. Lol....
When you point out to a pilot or crew-chief that a Chinook is leaking, they tell you that's a good thing. That's how you know it has hydraulic fluid. It's the ones that don't leak that you gotta look out for. Kinda like SBF rear main seals.When two engines are in a large boat, one has to drive reverse rotation props to counter the torque thrust from the one propeller.
The Army helicopter ( Chinook) works the same way. Those two giant propellers are spinning opposite directions so tha the thing won't just spin around like a top.
I think it's all just the cam.... we will see once I have it home.
Now what to do... cast pistons.... bleh.....
Also to use my heads I think they would need to be drilled out to 1/2... that means my head studs are useless as well.... ah the snowball...
Agreed, from my research the crank is cut differently for the oiling system but the distributor ect spins normal rotation somehow.You may want to do some homework now that the forward rotation piece is gone....
It would have to be more than that ( although if the crank in that engine is indeed better than the nodular iron crank that's normally in a 69 engine, an already decent crank, it will be a shame if that is different too).
If that engine was engineered to spin backwards from the factory, the crank counterweights should be different. The orientation of the counterweights should be a mirror image of a normal rotation piece. Meaning that they aren't just spinning a normal crank backwards.....where the flat backside of the counterweight would be leading instead of the tapered edge.
The oil pump spins backwards...wondering about that too. From what I'm reading, the pistons may be different, but that is moot considering that they are probably cast junk anyway.
If the crank is normal, you'll have a potentionally machined block, timing chain, crank and stock rods, with stock 1.84I/1.57e heads. Which are crap as well. They may be GT40's, but there may also be a needle in that haystack.
If you are getting an additional engine as a rebuild able core, then I say go for it. A JY engine out of an F150 would be less than the 500.00 you would be spending on this one (potentially), but it would have however many miles on it, and still be stock stuff needing replacement.
Stock rods are 5.956" long. They are used in a 393 combo. Given that they would need new bolts, and resizing after that, I'd throw them away, and buy the 325.00 I beams I was talking about several replays back. So, now you have (2) blocks, (2) cranks, (one, or both may be different from the car version)
Maybe, depends on what is needed to make all this happen. I don't want to do any machine work on the block, so if it's not 30 over my pistons will not fit. Ect...So now you are shelving the blower?
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