Looking for Idea/advice on build

Yup...351 crown victoria oil pan for 351 swap in a fox. The pick up tube is what you need from the 302 ....not the pump.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I just pulled the heads off to find std bore on the cylinders and this on #3....
20190216_173923.jpg
this was in a rebuilt engine. :leghump: me man.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: 1 user
Ok so it barely catches on my nail, maybe it just looks worse than it is.

Also the block is a 90... with 92 truck football rods with new bolts.
Is the 90 block roller?
20190216_175028.jpg
20190216_175036.jpg

Both of these images are a roller lifter in the bore, keep in mind that's a tappet cam in the block.
 
I don't think the roller blocks came about till around 93, but I may be completely wrong on that. I hate your luck in this, but things like this are why I say just save longer and do it right. Looks like you will be building an engine after all. Don't cut any corners, do it like you know you should deep down. I have been there, now wishing I had built something stronger from the get go.

Joe
 
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users
ok so im going to have the block punched out 30 over... just to be safe..

Going with these pistons from Icon https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-ic9925-030/overview/
stock truck rod is getting resized with new bolts
I can get a crank from the auto parts store that comes with needed bearings for under 160 after my discount so that is happening.

after the rotating assembly is figured out the rest will happen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Ok so about 415 for pistons, 100 for rings, 160 for for crank with bearings. Rods I would think would be about 10-30 each to recon, bolts 60-80 set? So all in your at 815 on the low end? Are you sure you want to save another 900 and just get a good stroke kit?
 
Ok so about 415 for pistons, 100 for rings, 160 for for crank with bearings. Rods I would think would be about 10-30 each to recon, bolts 60-80 set? So all in your at 815 on the low end? Are you sure you want to save another 900 and just get a good stroke kit?
I have the piston rings [total seal gapless] 357 cid is plenty for the parts i have to build it with... here is a run down..
-my ported 2.02/1.6 GT40 irons with 7/16 studs and guide plates [unless a money tree sprouts from the yard somewhere]
-My M112 blower setup, on a 357 it will make around 8psi with very little intake heating and less pressure means less parasitic loss
-my billet cam 575 lift 224i/236e custom grind ....... after talking with the cam grinder he thinks it will work very well in the 357 but wont be enough cam in a 393+

The main purpose of the 351 build is to get the stoutness of the block without going dart, the stock crank and truck rods will handle stupid power.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I believe the earliest 351w roller blocks were late 92.
Definitely not what you'd expect too see when opening a fresh/sealed rebuild.
I can see the cross hatching and can understand the corrosion from sitting, but the vertical
scoring wtf !
Didn't you say you have a 69 block as well ?
 
Ok so you say the stock 351 crank and rods hold stupid power? I know people are having issues with these stock rods in forced induction holding up. Maybe you will be fine with good machine work but maybe you won't. So far I would be questioning the history of this engine from either dirt or something tearing that cylinder up.
 
Ok so you say the stock 351 crank and rods hold stupid power? I know people are having issues with these stock rods in forced induction holding up. Maybe you will be fine with good machine work but maybe you won't. So far I would be questioning the history of this engine from either dirt or something tearing that cylinder up.
Not all 351 rods are the same, the truck rods have a football shaped bolt head that required significantly less material be removed from the big end.