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Starter relay is wired in. Unfortunately it seems I do not have my 12v in my starter trigger wire. Now I need to trace that back and see what I didn’t plug in.

however, triggering the relay with the screwdriver worked fine. First starter crank tonight in almost 2 years. Obviously I didn’t fire the engine up as it’s missing a number of items still
 
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Well, that was easy. After tracing it down, the clutch safety switch just needed an adjustment.


View: https://youtu.be/ZuzTUtkR0pg



of course, need to do a few more things before I can try starting. At least nothing made funny noises when I turned it over.

but, it won’t start with this

B6A7E441-7C25-497D-B7F3-8F30AF23BA5A.jpeg
 
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Also, any where to get a new washer fluid level plug? This thing is falling apart. I wonder if two blade terminals would just fit the prongs on the tank. Somewhat hack, but non-essential


and yes, having this non-functional would keep me awake at night.

FCF2834F-4DCE-4F51-8A16-CD39909601BC.jpeg
 
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Ok wiring is done with the exception of the o2 sensor harness. Waiting for my new O2 sensors in the mail and then I’ll install it. But vehicle wiring is done, car draws 0.01 amp when sitting so looks like I did everything right.

about to bolt up the coil bracket. It’s going back in the original spot. I’ll likely pick up a spare and powdercoat it, but I have some spare ARP hardware to bolt it up.

stainless 12-point or a more subtle black 12-point?

I know I know...nitpicking bolts??

1BFAA277-35FF-4A1B-A56E-EC6891F713AD.jpeg 4B2D0366-401B-4078-8CE9-BCEA448AD37B.jpeg
 
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I vote for shiny! I like the slight contrast here and there..... especially with quality stuff......... like you did with your master cylinder and braided lines!
 
Shiny bolts it is. Installed during lunch. No pic, I’ll grab one later. Also finished mounting and wiring in the alternator fuse block.

just need to do the o2 sensor harness and done.

I have a list going now for things to do before first start. Not much to do really
 
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Had some extra 4ga welding cable and ends so I made up a short cable to replace the firewall ground strap. I figure it wouldn’t hurt.

FDB87F4D-5F2C-4609-8D99-D4B4AC0E82F5.jpeg


got some free time this weekend so my plan is to get the x-pipe bolted up, the o2 sensors installed and harness run, and bolt up the cat-back. I plan to change the mufflers but not at this time. Let’s hear what it sounds like with the catted C-pipe and flowmasters
 
Had some extra 4ga welding cable and ends so I made up a short cable to replace the firewall ground strap. I figure it wouldn’t hurt.

FDB87F4D-5F2C-4609-8D99-D4B4AC0E82F5.jpeg


got some free time this weekend so my plan is to get the x-pipe bolted up, the o2 sensors installed and harness run, and bolt up the cat-back. I plan to change the mufflers but not at this time. Let’s hear what it sounds like with the catted C-pipe and flowmasters
I’m definitely interested in the feedback on the Bassani piece. I’d put cats on in a minute if I knew I didn’t have to hook up all the other smog stuff.
 
Also, any where to get a new washer fluid level plug? This thing is falling apart. I wonder if two blade terminals would just fit the prongs on the tank. Somewhat hack, but non-essential


and yes, having this non-functional would keep me awake at night.

FCF2834F-4DCE-4F51-8A16-CD39909601BC.jpeg
A lot of Ford vehicles from the time period into the late-‘90s had that low fluid sensor and plug. Best bet would be to hit up a local yard or two and find a used on that’s in better shape than yours.
 
Had some extra 4ga welding cable and ends so I made up a short cable to replace the firewall ground strap. I figure it wouldn’t hurt.

FDB87F4D-5F2C-4609-8D99-D4B4AC0E82F5.jpeg


got some free time this weekend so my plan is to get the x-pipe bolted up, the o2 sensors installed and harness run, and bolt up the cat-back. I plan to change the mufflers but not at this time. Let’s hear what it sounds like with the catted C-pipe and flowmasters
Oh nice I need to do this. My old ground strap back there isn’t in the best shape. Has a small gouge in it and I’m sure that’s not good.
 
I ended up just using two spade connectors. It fit remarkable well and made a tight connection.
Some Goo (shoe or plumbing) or E6000 would waterproof those spades. I’d put a layer of clear tape on the existing plug, plug them in through the tape, and build a new plug on the spade side with the gel adhesive with about two to three layers. My dad rebuilt a double smacked Olds fancy smancy plastic fender model and used that type or of stuff on plenty of interior pieces about 25 years ago. The last time we saw it, the interior pieces were still right in place. The straightened body work also held, but the aftermarket water Bourne paint needed attention.
 
FYI, when you install the MS the factory narrowband sensors will be useless... well unless you want to use them for closed loop [ I dont suggest ]

What I normally suggest for a clean installation is to order a couple of spartan 2 WB from 14point7.com you can use the factory wiring by cutting the sensor off the plug and wiring it in under the car. This way the factory harness is not damaged and they can be unplugged and removed during service.
This method leaves you with no gauges inside the car, if you want to add a single gauge pod inside the car then I suggest a multipurpose unit like the perfect tuning gauge. This one will canbus into the ecu and can display many variables not just AFR.
 
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