Any machine can be a smoke machine if you operate it the wrong way
Anyway, used mine again after fixing the PCV grommet and the IAC. Seems those leaks are fine. The egr leak comes from the exhaust gas port to the heads. I don’t think I’ll be able to fix that, nor will it matter.
Small leak around the TPS sensor where it bolts down. I’ll fix that later. Everything else seems good to go.
Ran the engine. Fixing these leaks improved idle quality a bit, but there’s still a shake. But it is better.
Code 33 is still there. I’ll have to play with this later.
The water pump pulley spacer did not solve the problem. If anything it made it worse so I’ll need to take the spacer off. It seems I need the pulley to go in, or get a water pump pulley that lacks the rear lip and is just flat.
I do want to try pulling the PS pulley out a tiny bit and see if that helps. Gotta go get my hands on a pulley tool
Engine off, this is where the belt sits on the WP pulley. It’s worse since the spacer went on.
Anyway, used mine again after fixing the PCV grommet and the IAC. Seems those leaks are fine. The egr leak comes from the exhaust gas port to the heads. I don’t think I’ll be able to fix that, nor will it matter.
Small leak around the TPS sensor where it bolts down. I’ll fix that later. Everything else seems good to go.
Ran the engine. Fixing these leaks improved idle quality a bit, but there’s still a shake. But it is better.
Code 33 is still there. I’ll have to play with this later.
The water pump pulley spacer did not solve the problem. If anything it made it worse so I’ll need to take the spacer off. It seems I need the pulley to go in, or get a water pump pulley that lacks the rear lip and is just flat.
I do want to try pulling the PS pulley out a tiny bit and see if that helps. Gotta go get my hands on a pulley tool
Engine off, this is where the belt sits on the WP pulley. It’s worse since the spacer went on.
Last task for the day while I ponder my WP issues
Rewired up my Gentex mirror.
Rewired up my Gentex mirror.
Solved one problem. Went to Autozone this AM and rented a PS puller. Pulled the pulley out about 1/8” and that solved the issue with the belt riding up on the lip of the water pump pulley.
Of course that’s not until after I went on LMR and bought a 93 cobra pulley set. Don’t drink scotch whiskey and shop online folks.
Pulled it out to here.
Sits much better.
Of course that’s not until after I went on LMR and bought a 93 cobra pulley set. Don’t drink scotch whiskey and shop online folks.
Pulled it out to here.
Sits much better.
Interesting. I bet I have changed out a hundred + P/S pumps and the pulley always went on until it was flush with the end of the pump shaft. Typically the pump shaft has some back and forth play that allow for slight alignment differences. Never had a issue with the pulley being flush with the end of the shaft.
Probably differences in tolerances from the manufacturer.
I’m guessing it’s the Edelbrock water pump. However I’m not pulling it off to see if I can press the WP flange in a bit or swap it out to another pump. What’s funny is that if there is an offset of the crank to WP pulley, I don’t see it and the belt is wrapping fine now from the crank to WP
This seems yo work now, and I idled it for a bit and the belt rode perfectly where it should. I’ll just keep an eye on it for a bit.
Welp, the most PITA thibk I’ve ever done is disassemble the parts headrest and assemble it into a good complete headrest. Basically needed a bunch of shoehorns to get it in.
So then I said F it. Since I need to recover them anyway, I decided to try some SEM paint until I get around to it. Yeah, I’m missing the red stitching but it matches decently. I painted my Fox halos with them and they held up find for years.
Letting them dry a few days before I mount them into the seats.
So then I said F it. Since I need to recover them anyway, I decided to try some SEM paint until I get around to it. Yeah, I’m missing the red stitching but it matches decently. I painted my Fox halos with them and they held up find for years.
Letting them dry a few days before I mount them into the seats.
Had day off from work to hang out with the wife. Eventually she got sick of me so into the garage I went.
Changed the oil just to flush out all the crud from the assembly. No surprises.
Wired up the fan. Running a 40a maxi fuse, and bosch 75a relay. Only think left to do is find a key-on source of 12v power on the pass side fender well area. On an ‘88 it doesn’t exist. I don’t want to run a single wire across the bay. Gotta think.
TEMPORARILY mounted my pwm controller so I can operate the fan. This is where the relay will live (easy access if needed through the air hole).
I think next blizzard, I’ll just build an arduino controller to take input from a coolant temp sensor and output an appropriate PWM signal. Should be easy to do. Hope I don’t mess up the coolant sensor direction. Those darn tricky resistors. (If you saw the other thread you’ll get this reference)
Changed the oil just to flush out all the crud from the assembly. No surprises.
Wired up the fan. Running a 40a maxi fuse, and bosch 75a relay. Only think left to do is find a key-on source of 12v power on the pass side fender well area. On an ‘88 it doesn’t exist. I don’t want to run a single wire across the bay. Gotta think.
TEMPORARILY mounted my pwm controller so I can operate the fan. This is where the relay will live (easy access if needed through the air hole).
I think next blizzard, I’ll just build an arduino controller to take input from a coolant temp sensor and output an appropriate PWM signal. Should be easy to do. Hope I don’t mess up the coolant sensor direction. Those darn tricky resistors. (If you saw the other thread you’ll get this reference)
Also, these came out nice. Forgive the crap lighting….I wasn’t moving them.
Finally dug back through the thread.
I'm running the Fel Pro MS 95952 gasket set. Those have the EGR holes in the gaskets, so flow isn't an issue. I have a spare EVP sensor and a spare EGR. I've been troubleshooting the Code 33 passively, but no real progress is made. I think i'm going to have to finally focus on it when i wrap up a few things.
Wiper motor conversion is done. What a PITA. The wiring wasn't that bad, as it was pretty easy to convert from the 2-plug unit to the 1-plug, 5-wire replacement motor. The problem was the NOS 1990's motor i had, was junk. It made one spin around and then locked up and made a bunch of grinding noise. Literally a brand new motor. Problem is i second-guessed my wiring and wasted a ton of time on troubleshooting my wiring. In the end, i bought a 99-04 use motor and tried it and it worked perfectly. Issue was the first motor, was in fact, junk.
Swapping to the Sn95 motor isn't a direct bolt on. I had to swap the crank arm, and the mounting plate for the motor to the firewall. In the end, what a PITA. Next time, just buy a new 2-plug motor and call it a day. I only did this because I bought a NOS FORD motor for $20, which ended up being junk.
Determined i can tap my fan relay into the hot side of the WOT relay's solenoid wire. That's fed of the ECU relay, so it's perfect for activating the main fan power relay. I discovered my WOT relay wiring was flaking at the connector, so i ordered a new plug. Need to wire that in.
Thats pretty much it. Next up, install the AC hoses and pull a vaccum
I'm running the Fel Pro MS 95952 gasket set. Those have the EGR holes in the gaskets, so flow isn't an issue. I have a spare EVP sensor and a spare EGR. I've been troubleshooting the Code 33 passively, but no real progress is made. I think i'm going to have to finally focus on it when i wrap up a few things.
Wiper motor conversion is done. What a PITA. The wiring wasn't that bad, as it was pretty easy to convert from the 2-plug unit to the 1-plug, 5-wire replacement motor. The problem was the NOS 1990's motor i had, was junk. It made one spin around and then locked up and made a bunch of grinding noise. Literally a brand new motor. Problem is i second-guessed my wiring and wasted a ton of time on troubleshooting my wiring. In the end, i bought a 99-04 use motor and tried it and it worked perfectly. Issue was the first motor, was in fact, junk.
Swapping to the Sn95 motor isn't a direct bolt on. I had to swap the crank arm, and the mounting plate for the motor to the firewall. In the end, what a PITA. Next time, just buy a new 2-plug motor and call it a day. I only did this because I bought a NOS FORD motor for $20, which ended up being junk.
Determined i can tap my fan relay into the hot side of the WOT relay's solenoid wire. That's fed of the ECU relay, so it's perfect for activating the main fan power relay. I discovered my WOT relay wiring was flaking at the connector, so i ordered a new plug. Need to wire that in.
Thats pretty much it. Next up, install the AC hoses and pull a vaccum
Oh, one other "Bonus" that i'd like to do is make the Low Coolant light functional with the aftermarket tank.
The OE 87-89 low coolant light is just a 2-wire switch. When the coolant level sinker drops, the contacts close, the connection is made, and the light comes on. I'm trying to find a nice, clean, aftermarket solution to do the same thing. It's a nice to have, not a need to have.....but having a non-functional warning light in the dash would bother me.
The OE 87-89 low coolant light is just a 2-wire switch. When the coolant level sinker drops, the contacts close, the connection is made, and the light comes on. I'm trying to find a nice, clean, aftermarket solution to do the same thing. It's a nice to have, not a need to have.....but having a non-functional warning light in the dash would bother me.
I didn’t pull the trigger. Likely I won’t get to it this winter so they will just sit in the box in my way.
I’ll buy in the fall for next winters projects.
I still need to weld on the MM SFCs. I plan on doing that once I get the car back to full weight on the wheels again.
Get the MM's on first, you'll certainly notice the difference and maybe rethink needing/wanting the stifflers. The welding in the MM's was one of the least fun things I've done to the car. Laying on your back under the car with the weight on the tires means it's very likely not that high up, and getting the splatter down on you, it sucks, but the end result is worth it. That said if I had to do it again I'd pay someone or a shop with a drive on lift.
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