Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

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Back at it.

Cut about a 3.5” section of 2.5” stainless tube and tacked it onto the flowmaster tailpipes. Fit seems good. Once I get the other side in, I’ll mount the upper arms and mock up the PHB to check clearance. My only concern other that that is driveshaft clearance.

I think I can get the exhaust mostly installed but then will need to wait until axle is in place before permanently clamping it all in place.

However, so much easier to work with it missing right now.


On to the drivers side now.

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BTW if you need new OE style exhaust hangers, you can use Walker 35637 hangers. They are rubber and close to the OE dimensions. I tried a few aftermarket ones and they were too thin and moved too much. These are firmer.

You will have to drill out the holes slightly as they are a tad tight. Not a big deal.

I had one original 1988 era hanger on my car, and these three from an old 1985 GT parts car I had 20 years ago. All E3 engineering part numbers.
 

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Drivers side PHB clears fine.

It would be great if I can install the PHB now, but unfortunately it needs a reference point off the rear axle. In hindsight, I should have done this before I removed the axle.

What I might do is temp install the axle housing once I remove the brakes and axle shafts. It will be lighter then and easier to manage. Bolt it in place, make my marks and then pull it out and install.

I can check driveshaft clearance as well at that point. A little extra work, but I want this to all fit nice-a-nice-a for Nona.

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Checked the LCA. Drivers side is tight. I might have to kick the tailpipe over a bit. I think what I’m going to do is make some partial cuts right down in front of where I tacked kn the extension to bend the pipe like an accordion. Then I will weld it up. I think this is the final modification I need to make and it will fit quite well.

I need to grab a sawzall first. Of all the tools I have, I’ve always borrowed a sawzall. Not sure why.

Those are Steeda control arms I bought around 2001-2002 or so. Essentially they are boxed OEM arms that were zinc coated. I prob have 1-2k miles on them. Rubber bushing still pliable.


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Turned my attention to the rear.

Made some plugs for the end tubes. Basically a stopper plug, and some hardware. Insert and tighten up and seals the end tubes. The bearings are only 1-2k miles old, but will change out the seals. (Obviously, as they are missing from the pic)

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And rear is all stripped. Gonna let it drain and then put the cover back on. It’s pretty light now, so I may somewhat install it to get my PHB measurements.

Need to cut the exhaust pipe first so I can bend it and then check all the fit.

As for the old exhaust. Once I’m 100% I have the new exhaust all set, I’m going to remove the tailpipes and scrap the mufflers. I can hear rusted flakes inside them. I figure someone local might want the tailpipes.

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Hangers for the mufflers came in. These are stainless. Plan was to bend them at the appropriate spot and cut the excess and weld to the muffler. They are thicker than I thought, so might need to notch them first with the saw and then weld at an angle.

That darn $400 Eastwood welder has certainly paid for itself by now.

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Put a little elbow grease into the rear cleaning it up with a wet rag. This 10-year old POR-15 is in damn good shape. Might need a few touch ups, but certainly no reason to dump another coat on.

I will spray the cover with some Eastwood aluminum paint before final install.

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Also, I sent the SVE anti-moans back. The oem ones will work.
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Disappointingly we got 1” of snow. It’s been a sad winter. I’m not happy unless we get one major storm.

Crawled under and put the driveshaft in. I need to work the drivers side still, but the pass side is all set other than one concern. Front left corner is a bit under the driveshaft. I positioned it under he snubbed and moved it down but it doesn’t contact until waaay lower, and actually hits the h-pipe flange first. So I think I’m ok there.

As for the pass side…I bought a sawzall. Will need to play with that a bit. I think the flow tube angle is off a bit, but I can fix that.

I might throw the rear end in and mount up the PHB. Rear is pretty mobile now that it’s stripped down of brakes and axle shafts

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Looking at your DS hanger you made there, now is the ideal time to install a DS Safety loop while you're under there. I don't recall what trans cross member you have but I bought the Stifflers one for my build and their safety loop that mounts to it, not that it's ready to be able to give you pics of it, but it's on the parts pile for now.
 
If you are going to pound on the car then I get a DS safety loop but if not there really isn’t much sense in it with a well maintained car. If it was paramount on a street car the car manufacturers would put them on every one they sold.

It’s a personal preference so I get that but neither of my cars have them nor do they have scatter shields.
 
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I highly doubt this car will ever get launched hard from a stop.

I have the Stifflers X-member on the car, and the DS loop is on the “nice to have” list for maybe next winter as a project. Right now I want to get the car drivable for next spring/summer. Then I can button it up with misc items like that.
 
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Something to be said about sitting inside with some coffee and Hot cocoa and not having a care in the world while you watch the snow come down.....

I like storm. Big ones. Ones where you just stay home and stare out the window with a fire in the fireplace.

Didn’t get any this year. Bummed.
 
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I highly doubt this car will ever get launched hard from a stop.

I have the Stifflers X-member on the car, and the DS loop is on the “nice to have” list for maybe next winter as a project. Right now I want to get the car drivable for next spring/summer. Then I can button it up with misc items like that.
I get it! I don't need it either, but since it only takes a couple of extra minutes to install and Kevin already has to do the X-member install might as well so I don't have to do it later.
 
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