Progress Thread Project 302

stanglx2002 · Jan 29, 2019

Do yourself a favor and steer clear of the msd distributor. They are not as good of quality as a stock one, and normally gives people more issues too.

Tack87 · Jan 31, 2019

Parts have started to come in, block and heads should be off to the machine shop come Monday. Yes I went with a ford cam I know some of yall don't agree with that but it should be fine for my build. I have a buddy that runs that same cam in his mustang and all seems good to me.

Tack87 · Jan 31, 2019

I need some help deciding whether or not to have a/c in my build (I live in Arizona). I understand without would increase power, but by how much? Is it worth the power loss to not bake in the summer time? Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

a91what · Jan 31, 2019

The AC compressor will cost you 0 HP when the AC is off...

Tack87 · Jan 31, 2019

Even with an extra pulley on the belt?

General karthief · Jan 31, 2019

It just acts like an idler, costs nothing, delete it and later on you'll be looking to put it back on.

Tack87 · Jan 31, 2019

If the msd distributor is not that good, is there a good performance one or just go stock?

stanglx2002 · Jan 31, 2019

There really isn't a big need for a performance distributor in our cars. Most give you more problems then anything. Stay with a stock one

90sickfox · Feb 1, 2019

A/C is a must man. Like everyone before me said....no lost when off....and in AZ you will need it for sure.

I've ran MSD distributors for the last 15 years. Still have the first one I bought. ( I did have to replace the pick up in it but it works good as new ). The newer MSD distributors were bitten by the low quality TFI bug. Mine are both older models and the MSD modules are long gone....but the physical distributor is OK and looks a lot better than stock.

CarMichael Angelo · Feb 2, 2019

Tack87 said:
Parts have started to come in, block and heads should be off to the machine shop come Monday. Yes I went with a ford cam I know some of yall don't agree with that but it should be fine for my build. I have a buddy that runs that same cam in his mustang and all seems good to me.

There is no point in you changing out a camshaft, regardless if it's a " letter cam" if you're gonna end up hobbling the setup with a weak valve spring . A spring wears out over time. It loses its ability to do its job, which is a hell of a lot more than most people think. Read up on how many times a valve opens and closes at 5000 rpm. Put 30 + years of doing that, and Now add a higher lift cam into the mix. Springs are part of a cam swap, because they make or break the new cams ability to help the engine to make power at the advertised rpm.
Don't cheat yourself into thinking that you can "get by". If you're doing a total rebuild, why spend any extra money on something that is just as antiquated as the engine was before rebuilding it, just to turn around, and throw it away when you have to tear it apart because the engine isn't performing the way you thought/hoped it would? ( the b cam). At the very freaking least, if you're rebuilding the engine....rebuild the engine.

Tack87 · Feb 2, 2019

CarMichael Angelo said:
There is no point in you changing out a camshaft, regardless if it's a " letter cam" if you're gonna end up hobbling the setup with a weak valve spring . A spring wears out over time. It loses its ability to do its job, which is a hell of a lot more than most people think. Read up on how many times a valve opens and closes at 5000 rpm. Put 30 + years of doing that, and Now add a higher lift cam into the mix. Springs are part of a cam swap, because they make or break the new cams ability to help the engine to make power at the advertised rpm.
Don't cheat yourself into thinking that you can "get by". If you're doing a total rebuild, why spend any extra money on something that is just as antiquated as the engine was before rebuilding it, just to turn around, and throw it away when you have to tear it apart because the engine isn't performing the way you thought/hoped it would? ( the b cam). At the very freaking least, if you're rebuilding the engine....rebuild the engine.

Well as said the heads are headed to the machine shop on Monday, I will have them check out the springs. I have nothing against replacing the springs just trying to hold off for a few.

7991LXnSHO · Feb 4, 2019

Most cars shut off the AC compressor at WOT. Do our 5.0’s do that? If not, you might want to wire an interrupt switch for the clutch to do so. I would have the AC on most all the time in AZ.
I’m more concerned about old valve springs than a letter cam with an older patttern. If a spring breaks and lets the valve loose, the impact would be very bad. Even if they spec out, metal fatigue can surprise you. If they float over 4500 rpm, you will be changing them anyway. Changing them in the car stinks, as does pulling the heads or motor.
If you want a new, quality water pump, GMB is a good brand. If you want to save more money, I have used rebuilt ones from Cardone (M1Cardone) on other cars without issues for many miles and years.
https://vehiclemaintenanceandrepairs.com/gmb-water-pumps-review/

a91what · Feb 4, 2019

Yes the 5.0 came with an AC cutoff switch, the relay mounts under the maf I believe.

Tack87 · Feb 5, 2019

Alright it's a waiting game now, the block and heads are at the machine shop. Can't afford to buy any more parts until I know what is going on with those. I have decided to go with new springs by the way, was looking at the mileage on the donor (over 300,000mi) and thought yeah lets do new springs. Lol

Tack87 · Feb 5, 2019

Now I'm trying to decide on a color for this engine. Was thinking Old Ford Blue, but not positive yet.

Not the best picture but you get the idea.

General karthief · Feb 6, 2019

Just paint the block gray, goes with everything and you really don't see it anyway.

stanglx2002 · Feb 6, 2019

I personally like the lighter Ford Blue color, but it depends on what the rest of the colors you are planning on doing like valve covers, intake, accessories, etc...

Lighter colors also make it easier to see leaks as well

Tack87 · Feb 6, 2019

stanglx2002 said:
I personally like the lighter Ford Blue color, but it depends on what the rest of the colors you are planning on doing like valve covers, intake, accessories, etc...

Lighter colors also make it easier to see leaks as well

That is something that I was considering.

General karthief said:
Just paint the block gray, goes with everything and you really don't see it anyway.

Grey sounds boring to me and true no one will really see it but I will know what it looks like and that's what matters. lol

General karthief · Feb 6, 2019

Just no yellow! That will get you

Tack87 · Feb 6, 2019

General karthief said:
Just no yellow! That will get you

I really wanted a burgundy with a little bit of black, but I can not find a burgundy paint.

Progress Thread Project 302

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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