Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 LX 'Vert

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STI_MECE

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Why head studs? I would think it makes installing the head in the car difficult. I would look into sending the injectors off to get cleaned and new o rings,
the fuel thing may be the ethanol that is in todays fuel, it gathers moisture from the atmosphere when left stagnant for long periods.
clean fuel tank and blow out the lines.

You make a valid point now that I think about it...I'm guessing you mean with the studs in the short block, trying to slip heads into the studs, that the heads themselves will physically hit something . Like now that I think of it, it would hit that brake master cylinder reservoir.

Son of a freaking gun.
 

Olivethefet

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I used these guys to clean and service my injectors.


It cost a little over $100 to do all 8 though, but you get documented flow testing of before and after they service them, plus piece of mind.
 
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STI_MECE

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I used these guys to clean and service my injectors.


It cost a little over $100 to do all 8 though, but you get documented flow testing of before and after they service them, plus piece of mind.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably hop on that ASAP lol heads are getting picked up today .

I ordered a 3M Rotec brush to clean the mating surfaces to the best of our ability before we drop everything on.

I really wanna figure out now if we can get the studs to work..... obviously we want them over bolts because they are superior and can take that extra pressure. Does ARP stamp their bolts? I am going to check to see if the ones we took off are ARP.
 

STI_MECE

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Most of the parts came in to put everything back together....co worker mentioned I need to check something on the rocker arms. It has something to do with making sure the rocker arm allows the valve to come up high enough without striking the top of Piston.

But right now I'm trying to find the best way to clean the deck of the short block. This old gasket material is not the easiest to get off. So now I have a 3M Rotec brush designed for aluminum it's "120 gritt" and I'm spraying the surface with WD-40. Keep the brush constantly moving and I keep as light of pressure as possible..

My concern is stuff dropping into the bores. It's not big chunks of Teflon all that has been removed. I am talking about keeping particles from dropping between the bore and Piston. 'm trying to physically get the deck mating surface clean. Would it be a bad idea to use painters tape to seal that gap and use compressed air to blow the stuff out?

We have a bit of down time right now before we put it all back together so after I get this done.

Gunna put in the new heater core as well
 

Olivethefet

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The deepest I've been into an engine by myself is valve covers off, oil pan off, and removal of the timing chain cover, so I cant help you to much. I've helped others build their stuff, but that's it. I have used this on stubborn timing chain gaskets and it worked pretty good.

Gasket Remover.jpeg


I forget, are you keeping AC in the car? I only ask because if you are doing the heater core it might be a good time to do the evaporator as well.
 

a91what

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DI NOT USE abrasive disks to clean the deck surface, you will run the risk of taking too much material off and the fine metal dust will make it's way into the engine. The EOM dont allow the use of them anymore as they cause more harm than good if used improperly, use a gasket scraper.
 
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StratTone

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Really cool project OP thanks for starting it and keeping us updated. My only thing to add is I wouldn't replace those sensors. No way! You will likely replace them with crappy new stuff that isn't as good as what you took off. Being that it is so low mileage you likely have all the factory Ford stuff still there.
 

STI_MECE

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I am going to dig around the forums for people rebuilding engines....I need to see what type of finish the deck has to look like inorder to be considered "clean" on a 302.

when i tried using a razor blade I coupled that with CHLORINATED brake cleaner to dry an dissolve the Teflon. I spent about 10 minutes trying to clean one area. Now i say 1 area, i am feathering over this area with a razor blade and i am pulling stuff up, but eventually it stops coming off. But the area i am working on still has melted teflon stuck to the block., and the razor blade just skips over it like there is nothing there (and i went to get a new blade and it does the same thing). I guess a dumb way to put it would be, Teflon got hot enough, melted, and this teflon is legit adhereed to the block and packed harder than i would want to dig into with a razor blade.

Then when the razor blade catches, it will gouge lol

thats why the 3m Roloc (white one) seems advantageous here because it got the finish i needed, with just barely touching the surface.

I am going to throw paper towels in the bores and tape it to the wall so nothing gets in....and ill probably light grease the old head bolts and plug the holes up (we have studs as replacements so i dont need to save these)

Overall, this learning experience has been fun but i am rather OCD about the way i do things and i like to go by the book. I have seen more professionals tell me not to use the Rolocs than some.

Then i watched a video on someone from Fel-rpo saying to use a fine wire brush and throw it on a drill to clean the deck....can someone vouch for that? I think some type of power on my side is the only way i can get this teflon off. that seems crazier than using a aluminum Roloc on a iron deck....esepcially if i baby it and prevent the abbrasive from going into the bores.
 

STI_MECE

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DI NOT USE abrasive disks to clean the deck surface, you will run the risk of taking too much material off and the fine metal dust will make it's way into the engine. The EOM dont allow the use of them anymore as they cause more harm than good if used improperly, use a gasket scraper.

and that is what gets me.... "if used improperly" I would like to say i have enough competence to use one safely if the proper measures are put into place. preventing anything from dropping into the bores or jackets and such, feathering the deck, and never sitting in 1 spot.
 

Steel1

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I've done a few sets of heads over the years as well as built my current 393w. I have always used a gasket scraper and brake cleaner,
or carefully with a razor blade.
Post some pics of what the deck surface looks like, maybe you're at a point to consider it done.
Paper towels in the bores definitely helps, just remember to remove them...lol.
 

Steel1

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You make a valid point now that I think about it...I'm guessing you mean with the studs in the short block, trying to slip heads into the studs, that the heads themselves will physically hit something . Like now that I think of it, it would hit that brake master cylinder reservoir.

Son of a freaking gun.
Head studs are a good idea on a boosted application, better clamping force to help prevent any lifting under boost.
Although you can't just screw them all into the block and drop the heads on, you can install some toward the front
of the engine then drop on the head and install the rest. The ARP one I've used had an allen hex on the top for install,
remember thread sealant for the lower studs/bolts.
 

STI_MECE

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Link shows a better picture of what I am dealing with but not entirely. I stil have teflon packed on but its minimal but im still going to take my time. But the answer i was looking for is in here, as long as its smooth and nothing is physically on the block, the stain is okay.

unfortunately i already used my brushed on 1, 3 inche section of the block and its nice and and shiny (not really but you get my point) so now i see it as a toss up. gasket scraper and razor blades on the rest and alot of time. I am going to need to figure out a way to check if any debris has gotten down there into the compression rings. its been sitting with no head on it, for idk maybe 3 weeks now open to atmosphere lol

Oh well. if it blows up it blows up. live and learn folks. only thing i can do now is hopefully finish out the job strong.

Things to use: gasket remover, chlorinated brake cleaner in a atomizer sprayer and alot of patience. The stain of the original gasket is not to be removed, just make sure its clean as a whistle.

I could never find a picture of a block that didnt lock immaculate before a new head gasket but the link above assures me I went overboard on one small area....and the rest still hasnt been touched so i should be good there. I dont forsee sealing being an issue but maybe debris in the cylinder bores now.

I appreciate all the feedback i have been geeting. It is helping steer the ship in the right path. I jumped in this way to fast but I have definetly learned the right and wrong way to do stuff.
 

General karthief

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Got a big ass shop vac?
here is what I do in a case like this, roll the engine over a little and wipe the cylinders down with a paper towel, spray a little wd40 or equivalent in each one and continue to roll the engine over, wipe and spray, repeat till you are happy. Hit all the holes with the shop vac and stick it together and burn some rubber.
 

STI_MECE

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Well I'm pretty sure this one picture sums up what not to do lol

Grit in bores, and dirt, top of deck on cylinder five is roloc, top of six is razor blade and portion of roloc.

And 7 and 8 are straight razor blade.


If I were to do this all over again. I would pull the engine without question. Tape up all cylinder bores, water jackets all that jazz. Soak the deck in gasket cleaner for a few days then rub all this stuff off. Have some gasket cleaner coming tomorrow...I saw it YouTube and it's exactly what I was looking for. I needed something to soften the material on the deck and have the fluid cling to the deck and not run off or evaporate. I'll try gasket cleaner on the rest.

Those headers are an absolute pain to deal with....they are just hanging over the cylinders....with their rusty self.

But yes I have a shop vac. It's a....idk how many gallons or HP but it's not a slouch.

I also just wired up a 240v stage 2 compressor with a 60 gallon tank so I got air too lol
 

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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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You don't mean something like this do you?

Gasket Remover.jpeg


I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself. I'm glad you got it cleaned up. I keep paper towels and those paper rags in a box around. I like to wad them up and jam them into any open holes that I dont want to get filled with junk.
 

STI_MECE

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You don't mean something like this do you?

Gasket Remover.jpeg


I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself. I'm glad you got it cleaned up. I keep paper towels and those paper rags in a box around. I like to wad them up and jam them into any open holes that I dont want to get filled with junk.
Yes gasket remover lol

But permatex makes that and CRC makes it too. I keep calling it gasket cleaner but that makes no sense lol
 
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STI_MECE

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Father in law came over this weekend. I was afraid I was not going to be able to get to the mustang for two weeks but he came over and helped get alot more done.

We pulled the fuel rails off, and now he is going to take the injects to the Injector RX. Thanks for the referral.

Do they make replacement pigtails for the injectors? I noticed a few of them were already broken.

Did find out our fuel pressure gauge in the hood is about 10 psi off. They used Teflon and brass to tap into the fuel line. I am guessing the Teflon failed over time and maybe clogged the gauge.

Anyways.....do we even need that thing anymore? They have a fuel pressure gauge in the b pillar.

I was also wanting to know if anyone had any recommendations on where a good spot to put oil pressure sending unit. Might be putting in a aftermarket coolant temp gauge in too. If I remember correctly I remember reading there is 1 sending unit that works for the gauge cluster.

Then there is one that the ECU (not sure if that's what you call it) reads to learn when it's warmed up and can cut fuel. I remember it always smelt rich and the coolant temp gauge was always 25%-35% up abve the coldest mark. No matter how hard we drove it.

Ultimately I want to install gauges for my father in law that will give him an idea when he needs to back off before it gets hotter.

I got some gasket remover stuff...my father in law was the one cleaning yesterday and he said it helped get more off but the stain is still there. The areas done with the razor blade are still heavy stained or dirty.... I can't feel anything. But when I spray chlorinated brake cleaner I will pull black stuff off but the block doesn't look any cleaner lol

The last thing I want to happen is to have it blow because we couldn't get a good deal because it was still dirty. That would be a epic fail.

I will be tied up this week on my Miata. I am putting in a roll bar so I can head to the track lol
 

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