Ready to do "complete" tune-up...bunch of questions...answer what you can...

Fuel filter: Very easy, only held on by two clips. You can relieve the pressure up at the schrader valve. If you don't know what that is, it is located on the passenger side fuel rail up in the engine bay near the alternator somewhere if I can recall. The valve looks the same as a tire valve does. After the pressure is relieved, just undo the clip from each side. I think there may be a band clamp around the filter holding it in place. Slide it out, put the new one in, prime the engine a few times before start up to fill it with gas, and then your good.

Plugs: I don't know about the 25's, but aren't the 24's recommended for a stock engine? Anyway, stock gap is .054" so anywhere between .050" to .054" should be fine. Some people may tell you to go .045", but I just go by the manual since my motor is all stock right now.

TPS: Checking the voltage is as easy as getting a anmeter and probing into the two lines coming off of it. I set mine at .98, but .99 should be good as well. You have to loosen up the two screws, and move it around a little bit before it changes the reading. Some people have even had to elongate the wholes the screws go in to set it right.

IAB: Just pull off the IAB, and spray the crap out of it with carb cleaner or fuel injection cleaner. They are basically the same thing. Just try to get the gunk out of the inside.

Plug wires: Not sure about that, but I imagine that you could get a small wire brush to just clean up the inside metal connections, the same as if you were cleaning battery terminals.

Hope this helps a bit.

as far as the spark plug wires go...id just get a new set. i think i spent 60 bucks on plugs, wires, cap and rotor. i could be wrong though.

There is a ford dealership online that sells a complete tune up kit, motorcraft plugs, motorsport 9mm wires(very good wires), cap & rotor, fuel filter for about $90. Well worth it. Don't remember the link though.

Dont worry about the TPS, if your car is running fine. Setting it between .80-.95 is fine. Going any higher may cause the puter to add fuel, causing poor idle. This is a myth that really needs to die. I too am guilty of doing this supposed "tuning" on my car. I learned how here on stangnet, and didnt know any better till I got a book and learned the truth.

Here is a cleaner, safer way to relieve your fuel pressure....go in the hatch and pull off the left REAR panel (the one in front of the tail light) and look for the intertia switch, then unplug it, and start the car,it will die once there is no more pressure. Crank it over till it won't start, usually on the second try is enough.... then go take out your filter. remember to plug that switch back in once your done or the car won't start.

BlackFox5.0 is right about the inertia switch when you change your fuel filter.

Carb cleaner and fuel injection cleaner aren't the same thing. Don't use carb cleaner on your throttle body it will strip the teflon coating out of it. Most Fuel inj cleaners are teflon safe although I don't think there is a teflon coating in the IAB.

Get new wires if they are corroded. I gapped my plugs at 52 since my engine is mostly stock.

If you have fairly new wires, they sell tune-up grease. It is what they put on the wires when they are new to keep them clean and get a good connection. I picked up mine at pepboys, but all parts stores should have them.