gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Any advice that I can give based on my own experience of trying 4 different belts is just measure what you need with string first. Would have saved me time and money.
The thing about the string method is it's hard to get the string can get you in a ballpark but it won't get you exact because of the tension that's not on the string unless you have somebody helping you. So basically when I did the string method I came up to 8182 in. But as I stated previously earlier in reply to the other guy who said he used a Goodyear belt ended up using a Goodyear belt, what threw me off anyway was not having the alternator bracket (stay) in place and bolt it up because when I bolted that up today that shifted the alternator pulley to the right sum and therefore the 86-in belt that was going on easy without having to use the tensioner would no longer go on. So it's confirmed that an 86.5 belt is what I need. And 86 and 3/8 almost went on it was about an eighth of an inch too short to go on and if I had to force it on I probably would have need help to do that and it was not worth it because it's probably going to shorten the life of the bearings from what I've read up and researched on. So the 86.5 should be perfect
I thought about that even though the 86.5 should be fine and last.
how would I even force the 86 3/8 on if it lacks another 1/8 inch ish to get on with the tensioner maxed? Might need hercules to push lol.....
lol i don't get how that'll work as it needs to go down under the idler pulley. Gotta get it to go down the rest of the way...It's called soap
The water pump pulley I have does not have any lips on it so for me it would be get the belt over all the other pulleys and then use a flat bar and some soap to pop it onto the water pump pulley. Its not that barbaric but that is the simplified way of doing it. Sounds like yours is a bit different.
Actually the wp pulley that came with the vortec kit doesn't have any lips on it either and it's smooth so I can see how that could work if I had to. But I already took all the other belts that I had back today and I got the 86.5 so I'm going to try that in a little bit and see how it feels. If I think the other belt will work better though I would probably go get it and use it but I think this one should be good I don't think it's going to be loose or anything
Plus I've always put the belt on and leave the idler pulley as the last step.
Oh I thought I hit send on this reply lol. So basically the 86.5 goes right on so there is no other choice but for me to force that 86 and 3/8 on. Even if I have to loosen the alternator bolts put the pulley on which it probably still will be a little tight to get on but with it loose at least I can work it a little bit to get it under the idler pulley and then go ahead and refasten the both bolts.
But because I am not running a small pump and AC and so it goes mine goes around the power steering and AC and then it goes around the water pump under the water pump it comes and then goes under the crank and then goes upward towardly tensioner then the alternator it will be difficult. Because of that routing it will likely be likely be difficult the way that you put yours on with leaving the water pump as last but if I don't get it the other way I'll try that too
Oh I thought I hit send on this reply lol. So basically the 86.5 goes right on so there is no other choice but for me to force that 86 and 3/8 on. Even if I have to loosen the alternator bolts put the pulley on which it probably still will be a little tight to get on but with it loose at least I can work it a little bit to get it under the idler pulley and then go ahead and refasten the both bolts.
But because I am not running a small pump and AC and so it goes mine goes around the power steering and AC and then it goes around the water pump under the water pump it comes and then goes under the crank and then goes upward towardly tensioner then the alternator it will be difficult. Because of that routing it will likely be likely be difficult the way that you put yours on with leaving the water pump as last but if I don't get it the other way I'll try that too
Ended up getting the 86 3/8 on. Actually used the L bracket loosened up the bolts and of course the alternator slides upward so I got it on and then locked the bolts back down. So that was a big help had I known or thought to try that at first.
I know that belt's nice and snug and I think the supercharger one is fine as well let me know what you think about this video. It's a little hard to do it with one hand you're pushing down on the tensioner with one hand and locking down the nut with the other hand so it's a little difficult but I think I got it.
Actually the video is too large too attach but if you got an email I will send it because I know you are not on Facebook Messenger LOL or actually I will send it to your phone
I know that belt's nice and snug and I think the supercharger one is fine as well let me know what you think about this video. It's a little hard to do it with one hand you're pushing down on the tensioner with one hand and locking down the nut with the other hand so it's a little difficult but I think I got it.
Actually the video is too large too attach but if you got an email I will send it because I know you are not on Facebook Messenger LOL or actually I will send it to your phone
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DadLife0724
Active Member
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
You should have no issues with the Vortech belt. Thats the easy one. Stick a 1/2" torque wrench into whichever square hole it will go into (i think i used the bottom hole. The belt might block one of them), set your torque wrench to 55-80ft lbs and crank it down on the belt. While holding the torque wrench at where it beeps/clicks with one hand, with your other free hand, tighten one of the bolts to lock it in place. You only need to tighten one bolt down a little bit and it will hold. Remove the torque wrench and then finish tightening all the Vortech tensioner bolts down. With the brackets and belt and equipment sort of in the way, you just gotta tighten those bolts down like 1/4 turn at a time, switching sides of your wrench each 1/4 turn. Its slow going, but easy.
Good explanation. I was going to use a ratchet to place in the square hole and get it good and tight by muscle and feel but that's better/easier..
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Vortech/Paxton (as far as i know) don't provide torque specs for the tensioner. I came up with the 55-80ft lbs just based on internet research and recommendations from other members here. The torque wrench (at least mine, since its a long handled one) worked well if only to give me good leverage. It would be really hard, i think, to use a short ratchet and put all your muscle into it WHILE trying to tighten down the bolts with your other hand.
Also, with the s/c belt in the way, i had to use a 1/2" torque wrench, with a small extension (like 3"). In my case, i used the torque wrench, and 1/2" to 3/4" adapater, then a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter since i don't have any 1/2" extensions. You have to fish all this down through the space between your upper radiator hose/belt and radiator to get it into the square hole.
yes I actually read something last week about torquing the belt to a certain spec and I can't as I was researching something else, can't remember if it was putting on the SC belt or what. I was stuck on a few things for 2-3 days and reserched a few things.
I have some 1/2 " extensions and also some 1/4 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/2, maybe a 1/2 down to 3/8 adapters as well in case I needed. For some things you have to be creative depending on what space you have lol. Actually reading vortech's instructions some things I kinda did in reverse order sort of like the overflow jug bracket. I mocked up how it needed to go so I could bend the AC line or see how easy it was to bend but didn't want to make it permanent til I messed with the belts to make sure I have clearance. NOw I will relocate the relay box to move it out of the way the rest of the way but everything is coming together. YOu have to know to research and ask questions and try
because their instructions are good but there are some things they could clean up. I used my own judgement when it came to some of the things that needed to be done and it worked out better for me vs what the instructions said......
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Oh trust me i went through all that with my Paxton install. My mind is like i need to follow the instructions to the letter and quickly released there is a lot of ambiguity or 'make it work' type stuff. This was also my first time doing it so I didn't know you could just deviate from the instructions where it made more sense.
indeedy. I'd feel much more confident and it would go a whole lot faster if I did it on another car......
Ok back here to this thread as google brought me. I now think my squeal at startup only is definitely due to the belt slipping. Yesterday was the first time I turned on the AC and it squealed for about 20 secs ish and the volt gauge was fluctuating from 14 plus to 12 something, car sounded as if it wanted to cut off. I looked at the belt and it definitely appeared to be not like it would just jump right off but noticeable that it would cause the issue of what it was doing.
The belt that is on there is the gates ko60858 and the package says 86 3/8 OC but the overall effective length is 85 7/8. I tried a 85.5 and with the tensionder maxed out it still has another 1/4 inch to get it on. I'm just not sure I can get it on and I will call a few folks tomorrow to see if they have any ideas or tricks to get it on possibly. I think if I get it on it should stop the issue and hopefully it won't be too tight and cause an issue. Research shows that some folks ended up having to use a smog delete pulley and going to finish reading posts here again to see if it answers my question.
The size I need seems to be an 85 5/8 (85.60) or 85 3/4 that should go on with much more ease though it'll likely still fight some. Problem is I have not seen those sizes available online or anywhere.
It also seems some had to reclock the tensioner as well as the delete pulley I believe and I will take the car to a shop if it comes to that.
Thoughts, and my car is a 94 remember lol...
in case @AeroCoupe and @Noobz347 doesn't get a notification
You can short route the belt on an SN, but it doesn't work as well as having a delete pulley. The angle of the belt on the tensioner causes it to jump around a lot. I ran it the short route for a long time before I gave in and put a delete pulley on.
Kurt
