Stock gear 3.27 1/4 times and mph (NA ONLY)...

[StngStr]

I ran a 13.8 last night with nothing but an x pipe and welded in magnapacks. If I had DR's I'm guessing I could hit 13.6 at least.

 

[derek02gt]

yep, ive see in many sigs that it is very possible..theres actually a guy here running 12.7 with the stock 3.27 gears..he has slp loudmouth,xpipe,headers,and all the other boltons...he has dr's also..stock gears, you can find him if you do a search for "loudmouth" as he chimed in on alot of those discussions.

 

[JonJon]

I hit 13.706 with just C&L MAF and shifter. I have catted x, cat back, pulleys, plenum, LCA's now. I hope to get a tune and DR's for the spring. I bet I can go faster than my 13.706. Then I'll get gears hopefully

 

[2000GT]

Good to know, I knew it could be done. I ran 13.89@101 mph with just pullies, K&N and cat-back. I might have been pushing 235 rwhp at the time. I haven't been back to the track since then.

Since then I have added some more mods. + a tune, and my car has dynoed peak numbers of 250 rwhp/292 rwtq. SAE. I am sure if I can hook up, I would run 13.5 - 13.6. I am going to try BFG KDW's on rear wheels this season. My Kumho 712's are horrible and I only have those "weak" 3.27 gears.

 

[Jackie Chan]

tony whetstone went 13.2 on street tires with stock gears quite a few times last year

 

[Slider]

See sig for boltons and NA times with stock gears. Could easily go faster if I put money into more hp producing parts, but I bent my axle last time ou. Now my money goes to an all new rear end with 4.10's. Running fast on 3.27's is not that big of deal, but it is very hard on the stock rearend parts (i.e. axles $ diff) . I have had to repack my clutches in the diff, and now I bent the driverside axle (not too bad though). IF you are going to run low 13's and 12's the stock parts are not good enough, and if you are going to upgrade that stuff people just go for a new gear ratio.

 

[BMan5150]

See sig for boltons and NA times with stock gears. Could easily go faster if I put money into more hp producing parts, but I bent my axle last time ou. Now my money goes to an all new rear end with 4.10's. Running fast on 3.27's is not that big of deal, but it is very hard on the stock rearend parts (i.e. axles $ diff) . I have had to repack my clutches in the diff, and now I bent the driverside axle (not too bad though). IF you are going to run low 13's and 12's the stock parts are not good enough, and if you are going to upgrade that stuff people just go for a new gear ratio.

I completely agree. Plus, I actually think it's easier to launch with 4.10s/stock tires than with the 3.27s/stock tires. You basically modulate the throttle only and walk it out of the hole with street tires. With 3.27s, you must slip the clutch way more. It's harder to do, plus it's harder on the driveline. I'm sure things change with DRs or slicks, but I do feel the 4.10s are easier on the driveline. I'll find out this spring how this plays out with DRs.

For reference, my 60' times (with stock Goodyears) improved with 4.10s (with a best of 2.08) but my ETs remained the same. The primary reason for the lack of gain with the 4.10s is the major-league tire slippage that occurs on the 1-2 shift. You can not powershift or slam the 1-2 shift on a 4.10 mustang with stock Goodyear tires - it's a waste of energy. My car practically goes sideways on the 1-2 if I slam it or powershift it. At least at the two dragstrips I frequent, this is the case (Marion County International Raceway and Natinal Trails.) My best times with 4.10s came when I slowly shifted into 2nd and did complete lift-throttle shifts. Wasted time right there.

With really sticky tires, I believe a 4.10 car will run faster than a 3.27 car in the 1/4 mile (on average, all other things being equal.) However, independent of the drag strip results, 4.10s on the street are just a blast IMHO!

 

[2000GT]

I completely agree. Plus, I actually think it's easier to launch with 4.10s/stock tires than with the 3.27s/stock tires. You basically modulate the throttle only and walk it out of the hole with street tires. With 3.27s, you must slip the clutch way more. It's harder to do, plus it's harder on the driveline. I'm sure things change with DRs or slicks, but I do feel the 4.10s are easier on the driveline. I'll find out this spring how this plays out with DRs.

For reference, my 60' times (with stock Goodyears) improved with 4.10s (with a best of 2.08) but my ETs remained the same. The primary reason for the lack of gain with the 4.10s is the major-league tire slippage that occurs on the 1-2 shift. You can not powershift or slam the 1-2 shift on a 4.10 mustang with stock Goodyear tires - it's a waste of energy. My car practically goes sideways on the 1-2 if I slam it or powershift it. At least at the two dragstrips I frequent, this is the case (Marion County International Raceway and Natinal Trails.) My best times with 4.10s came when I slowly shifted into 2nd and did complete lift-throttle shifts. Wasted time right there.

With really sticky tires, I believe a 4.10 car will run faster than a 3.27 car in the 1/4 mile (on average, all other things being equal.) However, independent of the drag strip results, 4.10s on the street are just a blast IMHO!

If you launch the way you need to for low 13's on DR's, I don't care what gear you are using, it's going to be hard on the drivetrain. "Walking it out of the hole" with 4.10's and DR's isn't going to produce your best times and for most people, low ET's are the goal of the 1/4 mi. You will need to heat the DR's and high rpm clutch dump.

Also, if spinning your tires on the street ='s "a blast", more power to you. Personally, I'd like to get my power to wheels and hook.

 

[BMan5150]

If you launch the way you need to for low 13's on DR's, I don't care what gear you are using, it's going to be hard on the drivetrain. "Walking it out of the hole" with 4.10's and DR's isn't going to produce your best times and for most people, low ET's are the goal of the 1/4 mi. You will need to heat the DR's and high rpm clutch dump.

Also, if spinning your tires on the street ='s "a blast", more power to you. Personally, I'd like to get my power to wheels and hook.

Who said I spin my tires all the time on the street? That has nothing to do with my appreciation for the 4.10s. The feeling that I have an extra "virtual" low end rear wheel torque? Yeah, that's pretty much what I like about the 4.10s.

People who don't have 4.10s are pretty much the same people who think driving with 4.10s on the street are like driving on ice. Whatever. It's not true at all, even with my stock Goodyears. You drove my car - did you go all out of control? I may not have the power you have (267 v. 290 rwtq) but it's not like it's supercharger-different. Hammering the loud pedal in second and third gear on the street is definitely better with the 4.10s. Minimal tire spin as well - with stock tires in warm weather.

"walking it out of the hole with 4.10s and DRs" will easily net me a substantially better time than without drag radials. You don't seem to hear what I'm saying/writing. My problem with 4.10s comes mostly on the 1-2 shift, not the launch! I can't be any clearer. Have you ever been to a drag strip with a 4.10 geared stang? Just trying to share my personal experience with both the 3.27 and the 4.10s.

Yes; I will be heating my DRs with a burnout as well. Sure, my ETs may not be as good as others who do the drop-kick high rpms launches, but they will be noticeably better than what my ets are now. And my drivetrain will feel much better!

You seem convinced that 4.10s are a total waste, so I recommend you don't get them.

 

[Mustang92]

I am curious if cars with 3.27's can produce just as good (or better) track times as cars with 4.10's. I am not interested in cars with blowers because those cars are in a whole different league. I am looking for NA cars that have hit mid 13's to very high 12's. Is it possible with just bolt-ons?

All I ever read is how every NA Mustang should have 4.10's and 3.27's are crap. Let's see...

Two cars with the same mods, same driver only difference being gears the car with the higher (numerically) gear will be faster.

Bill

 

[2000GT]

BMan5150 – I’m sorry, I made the assumption you wanted the lowest possible ET your car could produce. Feel free to “walk it out of the hole” with heated DR’s. I’d just like to make a point. You said most of your ET problems occur with loss of traction on the 1-2 shift, and you don’t have as much of a problem with the launch. (I got that directly from your last post.) Guess what? Your 2.1 60ft’s are not helping your ET’s and your launch played a huge role in your 2.1 60ft’s.

In simple terms and I think you would agree, the main objective of the launch is to get the car up to max power and hook up the tires as soon as possible. Max power is the easy part, just hit the gas, the hard part is hooking the tires. Heated DR’s solve the traction part, now your part is applying max power. This is done by launching the car at near or max torque which typically occurs around 4000 rpms on our GT’s. When you “walk the car out of the hole” with sticky DR’s, as soon as the clutch grabs, you will bog the engine unless you are at high rpms. Remember, your clutch will grab early because as you stated, “you don’t have to feather the clutch as much with 4.10’s”. End result will likely be wasted traction and poor 60ft’s. You won’t hit the upper rpms (i.e. max power) until you have already moved down the track a little and a few precious tenth’s of a second have elapsed.

I only mention all of this because point of running DR's on the track for the majority of DR users is to heat them up and do a clutch dump in the powerband. This is very different than “walking it out of the hole”. If you are looking for lower ET’s, it starts with improving your 60ft. The quickest way to improve that is to do a high rpm launch with a sticky tire.

And no, I don't think the 4.10's are a waste of money or time. I agree that “apples to apples” with the only change being the lower gear, the car with lower gear will have the lower ET. However, driver error is a beautiful thing and throws out the whole “apples to apples” idea. Most of all I think it’s interesting how many owners change out their stock gears and then say how amazing 4.10’s are. Yes, I drove your car with 4.10’s, it “felt” quicker, but amazing, no. Not to say I won’t go to a lower gear some day, I might, but I wanted to see real life ET’s with 3.27’s and bolt-on mods. on this post. I am glad to see 3.27’s can still produce low 13’s and high 12’s, it just takes more driver skill.

 

[BMan5150]

Guess what? Your 2.1 60ft’s are not helping your ET’s and your launch played a huge role in your 2.1 60ft’s.

I suppose my "walk it out of the hole" technique with DRs won't improve on my 60's . . .maybe you are right. I don't think you are right, but since I have yet to drag with DRs and my 4.10s I'll just say "we'll see." I'm making the crazy assumption that it will improve my ets, but you are right - I won't probably get the same improvement as if I dumped it at 4K rpm. Then again, at least my axles will appreciate me not doing this.

When you “walk the car out of the hole” with sticky DR’s, as soon as the clutch grabs, you will bog the engine unless you are at high rpms. Remember, your clutch will grab early because as you stated, “you don’t have to feather the clutch as much with 4.10’s”. End result will likely be wasted traction and poor 60ft’s.

Really? Glad you could clear that up for me because I've never driven a 4.10 car with DRs at a 1/4 strip. Just curious. . .is this what happens whenever you run a 4.10-geared stang at the strip with DRs? Oh wait. . . you haven't driven a car with 4.10s and DRs!!! Maybe it's all the drag racing you do . . . oh wait, you didn't visit the strip once last year!

Heeheeheeheeheeheeheeheehee!!! Just messing with you bro! Get some sticky street tires before you get the 3.27s and go from there. We need spring to come, and we need to visit the strip on the same day!

 

[mad4mods]

Just to chime in I've run 13.80's at around 100 mph with 3.27 gears. That was with SLP LT headers, catted x-pipe & cat back. Nothing else.