Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

[extra_stout]

So you're upgrading to a 3g?

I upgraded in the beginning of this project, because I needed a custom pulley setup anyways. And I did know that I will run electric fans.
So the first alternator was working 2000km... I used an alternator with Ford part number F3DZ-10346-B, which is a 3G alternator, but with a serpentine belt pulley. The pulley needs to be swaped when you want to keep the V belt.

Hopefully you can find some answers through one of these links.....

I did! the motor trend article states, it is unimportant which way it is wired up. It explains that the idiot light or resistor is needed for GM units not the Ford units.
So I will buy another alternator and hope that it will last longer, when I leave the resistor away.

 

[extra_stout]

Here at least one pic from the tour

 

[extra_stout]

Today came the new alternator... and I will keep it as spare, because I do not need it. Had the belt removed and I was removing the wiring from the alternator, when I saw that the nut from the post for the battery wire was loose... Torqued that down and installed everything. Works great as in the beginning.
Because I'm German, I replaced the nut with a spring washer AND a locknut.
Beside that I removed the dash cover to get to the bolt, where you need to push to remove the head light switch... Removed that together with the whole instrument cluster to install the "new used" fuel level and temp gauge from the cluster gauge with the KMH speedometer I bought last year. Now they work as the should without getting stuck.

Next week I have on week vacation, is should be dry and mostly sunny. So I hope to get some things done:
- burn the whole fuel tank nearly empty to get new fuel into it before wheater is getting bad
- tacho conversion from 6 to 8 cylinders
- installation of new used fuel level and water temp gauge (the old ones get stuck, the new used ones worked fine in a bench test)
- reverse light is not working; look up where the error is
- maintanance

Things I want to do, but will more likely a thing for next year (hopefully):
- remove DB killers from exhaust (measure before and after to see if it is nearly legal)
- install new u-joints on driveshaft (+ paint); check drive line angles
- custom adjustable front sway bar
- wheels?!

 

[LILCBRA]

Because I'm German, I replaced the nut with a spring washer AND a locknut.

But did you use LocTite?

 

[extra_stout]

But did you use LocTite?

F*ck, I know I forgot something,

 

[extra_stout]

My tacho conversion seems to work. A friend helped me with RPM reading with my ignition light and comparing it to the modified tacho... at night, because it is much easier at daylight.
I will post some pictures how I did the conversion. Its not more than 100 RPM off from idle up to 4000 RPM. That works for me.
- burn the whole fuel tank nearly empty to get new fuel into it before wheater is getting bad
- tacho conversion from 6 to 8 cylinders => 650 Ohm resistor
- installation of new used fuel level and water temp gauge (the old ones get stuck, the new used ones worked fine in a bench test)
- reverse light is not working; look up where the error is
- maintanance

Things I want to do, but will more likely a thing for next year (hopefully):
- remove DB killers from exhaust (measure before and after to see if it is nearly legal)
- install new u-joints on driveshaft (+ paint); check drive line angles
- custom adjustable front sway bar
- wheels?!

 

[2Blue2]

to install the "new used" fuel level and temp gauge

Good stuff...

 

[extra_stout]

Made another thread where I described the tachometer conversion:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...to-8-but-with-different-resistor-size.924607/

 

[extra_stout]

KPH speedometer works without any adjustments. About 1-3 KMH more than GPS app reads between 30 and 100 KPH, but that is fine.

 

[extra_stout]

Had this year not that much time for the II. But last week I started the season (very late). As always you think you will detect some leaks or whatever. I had screw drivers and a multimeter with me. But the nice thing: nothing to do. The II runs like a champ! Pulls great, sounds good.
Here are some impressions:

The third picture is my favorite

 

[LILCBRA]

It's a toss up between #2 and #4 for me. Looks great and sounds like it runs even better than it looks!

 

[2Blue2]

Fun to see her out and about.

 

[extra_stout]

Still I have not much time for the Mustang II... Got a funny/provoking sticker and cobra signs on the fenders. Car is registered since two years and it now needs the biannual safety/TÜV inspection.
Beside small issues that where fixed fast (loose grant steering wheel adapter, loose connection at the reverse light switch) car is running just fine.
Just had the info that I'm now 5 years registered on this forum

 

[2Blue2]

How many miles in two years you put on er?

 

[extra_stout]

2500 km = 1500 miles
German classic car enthusiasts say "Stehzeug" (means word for word: stand thing) instead of "Fahrzeug" (means word for word: drive thing, which translates to vehicle)...

 

[2Blue2]

2500 km = 1500 miles

Thats really good. Lots of quality time together.
that car looks nice
Thank you.

The third picture is my favorite

Is a good shot.

 

[extra_stout]

Today I had some good time with a friend working on the Mustang. We were able to use the car hoist in the company he is working at.
This allowed us to remove all the stuff to get to the leaking rear main seal. Installed a SKF speedy sleeve and a new rear main seal. Now the wear in the crankshaft face should not be a problem anymore. *fingerscrossed*
When I build the car, I wanted to be able to remove only the passenger side downpipe and still getting transmission and bellhousing out. The plan worked. Also the v-band flanges at the height of the transmission mount worked very well out...
My friend is an experienced mechanic so he had some ideas for the clutch fork and clutch cylinder. Just tiny adjustments, but now the clutch feels even better...
Its something different if someone is doing this all day long.

 

[2Blue2]

Less rear main leaking and clutch feel improvement,
thats a win win!
right on

 

[General karthief]

Friends remind us we can do it all but they may know a different/better/faster way.

 

[extra_stout]

Things I want to do, but will more likely a thing for next year (hopefully):
- remove DB killers from exhaust (measure before and after to see if it is nearly legal)

Done that, after years where I didn't found the needed time...
Sound awesome, and is not too loud. No drone. And it feels like 30 lbs ft und 20 HP more...
Like it very much. revs freely now.

Because at constant speed between 1500 and 2500 RPM it had a little shake, I measured AFR today again and it seams to be lean in cruise again. which makes sense, because the gas exchange is much much better with the lower exhaust back pressure...
Messed with the idle mixture screw, which made it better regarding AFR (did get leaner, because it was way to rich). But than the car started vibrating, when accelerating which sucked a lot.
So it looks like, I will step up with the jet size instantly and start carb idle setting again from base setting and check my ignition timing.
Car ran awesome for two days, now not so good. But lets see.

Test drive happened today! 67 primary jet size is very good. It is still a bit lean at cruise, but no bogging or anything. Readjusted the idle mixture screws with vacuum gauge and the car runs awesome. Idle is very, very smooth.
brake master cylinder is still leaking...