1988 turbo 331 TW heads mspnp2

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#61
The car feels so much better. Could even ease off the clutch and the car didn't buck. Very drivable. I see how you're adjusting things. The part throttle tire roasts are over, thank bajeesas ! Last year this car was like an on off switch- kinda how I had that unmentionable incident.:confused:

I can now roll into the throttle pretty nice. I don't know how you do this wizardry, but it works. I'm guessing that the lean condition caused the weird throttle issues.

Here's the log...
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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#62
Yes bad fuel transitions cause strange driveability issues for sure.. I am glad that you are pleased with the progress, I know it is time consuming to do it this way... but with no prior tune with your combo to work off of this takes a bit of time doing datalog only.

This time i went ham on the fuel above 3k RPM lets see how the car reacts to it, should be safe to roll into it fairly hard so i can see what the fuel in the higher RPM will need. You should be ok to make turbo noises, just keep an eye on the AFR. I want to see 12AFR or less in boost.
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#63
Ok. I'll load it up tomorrow and turn a few clicks on the boost controller.

I've been studying the ALED and WLED outputs. I should be able to wire my high and low fan relays to them. Also, I've got a couple evap purge solenoids I've been thinking about turning into boost solenoids. I could buy the EBC from DYIautotune... not sure yet. I know the factory purge solenoids were engineered to last 100k... not sure about EBC. They both are two pin solenoids... the OEM ones are meant to be pulsed to certain duty cylcles... they're also cheap.

I'll pull the car out tomorrow and see what it can do with the new tune.
 

a91what

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#64
Ebc is fairly simple to setup, if you are not going to do anything fancy with it I suggest using the kiss method.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#65
I used the kiss method a lot....that's how I got 4 kids... :O_o:

ummmm….what, exactly, is the kiss method you speak of ?:cautious:
 

a91what

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#66
Lol, if you are not going to do boost by throttle or gear ect.... it may be simpler to just use a manual boost controller. What is your final goal? I will tell you what I suggest.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#67
I will probably boost by gear. I want steady boost at a set limit, about 7psi. Nothing really complicated. also I want boost in a controllable gear. 7 psi in second will roast the tires.... There are a bunch of things that can limit boost and aid traction...but at this time I'm not smart enough to weight my options. lol I do have usable wheel speed sensors. I've seen people log wheel spin on miatas.

In all reality I'm not there yet. I've got to get the car running and driving first. The inspection requirements contain a test drive. I do need some form of over boost protection though. At my calculations I'll be at 550 with 7.... a bunch more at 10...and stuff will go boom !!!
 

a91what

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#68
I will probably boost by gear. I want steady boost at a set limit, about 7psi. Nothing really complicated. also I want boost in a controllable gear. 7 psi in second will roast the tires.... There are a bunch of things that can limit boost and aid traction...but at this time I'm not smart enough to weight my options. lol I do have usable wheel speed sensors. I've seen people log wheel spin on miatas.

In all reality I'm not there yet. I've got to get the car running and driving first. The inspection requirements contain a test drive. I do need some form of over boost protection though. At my calculations I'll be at 550 with 7.... a bunch more at 10...and stuff will go boom !!!
Does this inspection also contain an emissions test?
Boost by gear is not available for MS2....
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Mar 2, 2015
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#69
No...no emissions. I'm in an emisions free county. I can set MS2 to boost by rpm, right ? Boost by gear would be nice.... Guess I just need to set up some over boost protection. I think I need to set it to 148kpa. What do you think I should cut....fuel...spark ? The spring is supposed to be 7psi....haven't tested it yet, on my car it may be a little lower.


1538569480678.png
 

a91what

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#70
I would set it to cut both fuel and spark; this is the safest method. Also set the KPA value to 155 this will allow it to bounce off the spring without making a fuss and acting funny on you.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#71
OMG Dusty is really starting to do his thing. I turned the manual boost controller up a couple of turns....don't think it actually went into boost though. It was hard watching the gauge and the turn coming up at the same time. Haven't been able to view the log, helping youngest boy with food and homework. I made three trips around the neighborhood and did the pull in 2nd ( I know bad...but with the distance that's all I could do ) transmission didn't blow up. Car pulled great !!! I've never felt this car pull like that. No spinning just umph. I was moderate with the pedal. The second pull the car fell on its face...I'm sure that's because I had to drift around a 90 and punch it. I don't think the rpms were ready.:nonono::nonono::nonono:

The 3rd pull was ended with kinda hard braking and then reversing to a turn around so I could put this beast away.

This tune has the over boost protection enabled...
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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#72
Try this, I remapped the fuel again as you needed more resolution around 2200-2700 rpm made some AFR table changes and adjusted the EGO correction.
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#74
The compression ratio should be 9;1. I lost the build sheet for the engine assembly. I reviewed the log and see that I did go into a little boost. I'll turn it up a bit more tomorrow. I know you saw it but I'll post a screen shot for those viewing.

1538625304626.png


In the first graph the red line is kpa. 100kpa is atmosphere....well 100.4kpa for where I'm at. That means it went 10.5kpa over atmosphere. That's boost baby....a whole 1.5lbs :burnout:
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#75
Alrighty…..

I forgot to datalog from cold. SMH. It starts off at about 140 degrees. The car is still pulling well. Turned the boost up a hair...literally....only saw 111.6kpa. The road is kinda short where I'm doing this. I've got a video to post later. If you look close you can probably see my eyeballs popping out of my head.
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
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#76
Ok so things are getting closer but i cant really do much more with the fuel tuning without better/longer log files.... when i put my transient filters into place the histogram darn near goes empty.... How confident are you about/can you legally drive this thing on the road/highway???
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#77
I can't drive on the street yet... my Illinois tags came off a friends Monte Carlo 7 yrs ago. I used them to drive a Jeep Cherokee 100 miles on the highway. Those days are long gone. Back then I had less to loose. Now, my job would be on the line.

Looks like a stand still until I get tags. I'm confident that any safety inspector could safely drive this car.

Thank you so much for all of your geniusness.

I'll load that tune and log it saturday.
 

a91what

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#78
Copy that, get me a good long log or multiple short logs and I can load them all together and build my histogram to do more tuning... based on the log files you have sent me it looks like the idle is strong and the car wont stall unless someone is trying.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#79
It won't stall. A bunch of the oscillations are caused by my left and right foot feathering the clutch out.

I'll drive the same exact route giving a throttle blip at the same single point. That may give you a reference spot.

The car is driveable like it is.
 

a91what

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#80
No need for anything to point a reference to... I simply build a variance table and tune from it, the only issue is I cut out anything that does not get a significant amount of 'hits' or if it is a transient 'like extra enrichments' these i remove from the table so i am tuning just the raw fuel table. normally I have a 20+ min long log to work with. I guess i am spoiled. :p

If you say the car is driveable, i believe you, at the end of the day i am just looking at a data stream if the car is happy at this juncture then we can pick back up when you are ready.