Progress Thread 2003 Ford Mustang GT Build Log

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
update:
car is back together - inspection tomorrow morning
- no check engine lights
- ** white smoke from exhaust OR bad heads/cracked cylinder? tune in to find out lol..

No sound clip since exhaust really isn't exciting

also found out the car has a pro50 tremec shifter
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 2Blue2
  • Sponsors(?)


03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
*finished the headliner
*refit the center arm rest piece - painted flat black
*new shifter/ebrake boot - red stitching + leather ( the tremic shifter was installed backwards also - i fixed that )
*removed a gps car tracker + wiring that was installed previous at some point
*cleaned even more ( never ending )

*started the radio wiring harness repair - basically i re did the crimping and I am now trying to figure out if the chassis ground is crimped to the other black cables or grounded to metal. also a mystery blue wire - not sure if its needed ( I circled those in the pictures below )

also started on fixing the AC - so far it makes noise when turning on or switching between fan speeds but no air comes out - I am going to check the fuses for the AC system first before diving into it anymore.

I started looking at fuses and one is missing.. looking at a diagram of a v6 mustang I believe its the same for a GT - It shows as "audio" looked a little further and its a 10 amp fuse for the radio.. going to see if I can get one for that. I think that + fixing the wiring should make the radio play music. Hopefully all speakers work, also noticed there are 2 amps in the trunk for the mach system hidden above; they both have 1 connection coming off them -I am assuming they will still work for the interior speakers but to get the most out of them, I should get sub-woofers?

anyways I got some testing to do. OH also my new insurance company wants some papers filed/sent back before I can get this car on the road... bummer.I did take it out and forgot it had no power steering fluid since it sat for a while with the connections off. I bleed the old fluid and replaced it with some new and its back to normal. I will do a complete flush of all fluids down the line though.

pictures -
 

Attachments

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
Thought I'd pop in real quick -
fuses I ordered did not fit. too thin and wouldn't hold tight in the fuse box...but I got the radio to work even without replacing the missing fuse in the fuse box. I am guessing this is because the radio has its own fuse and that is kind of a bypass to it. The ground cables all get put together in case anyone wants to know.

HOWEVER the 2 bottom door speakers aren't working - well they work but I don't know if the radio harness is right that they don't play sound or if they are just super quiet... That ALSO brings up the 2 amps in the trunk. They do not work at all - this could be because the radio harness isn't right and isn't turning them on. I'm not too sure here. I did test them by swapping them around/unplugging them plugging them in and it doesn't change the sound to any speakers that I can tell.

:edit I have been checking with a audio forum to pretty much get a little guidance so that to make sure I atleast don't burn down the car.

* I may just replace the radio since its old anyways and with that a new harness and dash kit and let a pro install it and diagnose the "issues"

As for the AC system - I didn't do much but research. I still need some fuses to get started here. - I did find a mystery wire - not sure if it is related to the AC system. Maybe someone can help me out here? check picture below.

ordered new stuff - fuses (have to return) I will probably just go with local parts store for fuses even though they are more expensive now.
- Billet PEDALS
- interior door handles
- weather mats (even one for the trunk)
- dash LED lights - I am going to replace all the dash lights/HVAC lights and I already replaced every other lights (trunk/license plate light with some LED"s) // I do have extras in case I get a junkyard dome light which I probably will.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: MattMan02GT

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
The yellow lines are not wires but vacuum lines. These connect to vacuum operated damper motors to "adjust" the damper actuators to direct air where desired.
wow interesting, I guess its time to find a diagram to see where everything goes for those vacuum lines. Thank you for the reply!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MattMan02GT

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
update:
new stuff
- billet pedals
- diy custom rubber mats/ trunk mat (cutting to fit)
- interior door handles ( painting them did not come out how I wanted so I just replaced them )

visited the junkyard again and got a bunch of missing parts ex.-hood bushings/clips/fuses/interior trim etc. car is complete now however I would like to replace ac vents/radio later.

AC vacuum lines have been routed back to where the are suppose to go (hopefully) -> I got this info from mustang manual and looking at people remove their dashes I got glimpses of their vacuum hoses to confirm I have my lines ran right.

I checked the ac compressor/clutch and it does spin - however it will stop and start repeatedly. It has a click when it stops which I guess is normal sound - low pressure/low refrigerant?
* no air is coming out of any vents - blower fan broken possibly? which is why no air is coming out of vents?

blower motor fan doesn't spin/make any noise - removed it to check it out; re plugged in still nothing

EDIT: radio subs WORKS, all speakers WORK! - double checked fuses - incorrect fuses swapped out ( gt fuse diagram IS different from v6 slightly ) but also not only check if fuses work but check if they are correct amps.. anyways that one thing fixed. HOWEVER radio doesn't save settings - might be because of harness wiring or because I keep disconnecting battery.

*2 fuses ( check pic ) I think are suppose to be 30 amp fuses for the AMPS however the fuses when I put in do not hold and the subs work even without those fuses because of the fuses under the dash I believe. and 1 fuse under the dash for the "positive crankcase ventilation heater" I currently have 5a for it instead of the 2a which I will replace asap.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
blower motor failed test - ordered a new replacement

blower motor resistor STILL works - ORDERED a new one anyways (too rusty and may as well upgrade with a new blower.

LED lights installed on dash/AC controls - went with white LED to make the stock green brighter. will post pictures next week.

I will be removing headliner to inspect and install a dome light.

Radio bezel ordered and will be installed sometime this weekend to make the radio hold until a new radio gets chosen.
 

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
update:

*Painted: hood scoop honeycomb piece, side honeycomb pieces, mirrors, windshield wipers and AC vents FLAT BLACK

***Installed new blower motor/resistor and the AC system is complete... IT WORKS! I also have some refrigerant that I will add to the system if it is low later but it did feel cool.

*Installed dome light w/LED's.
*center console lid (headliner edition) completed and installed - very comfy lol

*I ordered a new windshield cowl as the one on their has a crack so I didn't paint it. Should be here sometime this/by next week.
 

03GThoopty

Member
Jun 14, 2019
32
9
18
Texas
very nice man sounds like shes coming along nicely
well its about to get better LOL

disaster strikes
did oil change 5w-20 to 5w-30/filter about 5.5q
put 93OCT fuel
drove it around the block, washed the car and later that day was running the car and making sure it was ready for inspection.

BOOM - p1130/p1131/p1132/p1150/p1152 CODES (codes did not all pop up at the same time)

OK so I decided to fight the codes LOL

fuel injector cleaner
cleaned MAF
cleaned TB
checked for vacuum leaks (found none) maybe I don't know what I'm doing.
These did not help.

car still didn't change and if anything probably got worse - at first it would idle fine but after revving it would go down to under 1k rpm. Then it would start to idle low and go back to normal. I tested this out with the list above one after another. Car ended up stalling after less then a couple mins without even revving or anything on my last test.

I do have liquid/smoke slightly and not a lot coming off the exhaust. It is a new exhaust system so I thought maybe the water/coolant messed up the o2 sensors by the headers but I have no downstream o2 sensor codes? I did a simple test to see if its coolant. Opened the res. cap and turned on the car. NO bubbles. I also tried the liquid (taste test ew) it wasn't "sweet"

COOLANT also doesn't go down since I bought the car. Even though it hasn't been driven alot since I owned it I think it would still leak right? So i don't know. I did do a oil change prior to changing to 5w-30 with 5w-20 to test for leaks and ran the car for a bit (less then 10miles) It wasn't milky. If anything the car ran fine expect for the exhaust/oil leaks...
--
Going to change fuses (wmburns suggested 2 from a different post a long time ago so I am doing that) / checking upstream o2 sensors and exhaust leaks.
ALSO am going to leave the battery on a trickle charger tonight.