Progress Thread 2003 Ford Mustang GT Build Log

Junkyard 03GT · Jan 18, 2020

2Blue2 said:
She's a good looking GT for sure!

Thank you!

PS new brake booster installed (again) ......

OneSick99GT · Feb 10, 2020

I've enjoyed reading your progress build. Very detailed and kept it on point. I love how you show pictures of the issues, then what you did to resolve. Looks like your headed to home base and have her almost complete.

Junkyard 03GT · Mar 25, 2020

Back at it again.. with a huge list of changes / tests and fixes. I didn't take pictures of everything since I have been busy with work and laziness.

1.Tried out SLP Resonators 31062 = too raspy with my setup and also required welding. - removed and reinstalled SR mufflers.
2.Added tint - 25 % on the side main windows and 5 % on the rear / back window.
3.Swapped out the EGR stuff with replacements as well as hoses and gaskets (again)
4. Cleaned grounds and replaced old negative cable.
5.Tried out a different CAI system, went back to K&N.
6.New MAF housing/gasket and cleaned TB/MAF sensor.
7.Fixed rear speaker AMP wiring. (Had a small buzz that was on/off - took forever to figure out where the issue was) (now I am thinking about replacing the speakers.)
8.Replaced all rotors and brake pads re-bled the system. (completely serviced everything)
I also found a seized rear rotor that wasn't working at ALL. REPLACED IT TOO.
9.Replaced spark plugs with OEM replacements and gaped them.
10. Injectors were hand cleaned and re-lubed.
11. A full detail inside out with the best paint correction I could do myself.

Currently no codes present but I've been doing so much with changes and fixes and test that the battery gets DC so often. I think I have a small EVAP leak, possibly a leaking injector OR a small vacuum leak. Also I think its time for tune for the headers since the long tubes and o2's don't play nice with the computer.

Pro tip (not) - If you accidentally remove your parking brake cable and spring, to REINSTALL it you need vice grips and pliers PLUS zip ties (8" 75p strength) to hold them together as you compress them with the pliers. You will reinstall them and then cut the zip ties. You'll then have to pull the zip ties out partially since they will be wedge in but its not hard to do OR you will have to buy new calipers. Luckily I figured out how to reinstall them quickly.

Junkyard 03GT · Apr 22, 2020

Update:
Bama Tuner (tunes for life)
Injectors were rebuilt (DIY)
Replaced Exhaust bushings

I paid to get ball joints, inner/outer tie rods and a alignment done. :/ (yes I tried to do the ball joints and it was a waste of my time lol)

NO CEL's at the moment. If the bama tuner works, I shouldn't get any codes for the long tube headers. Also I rebuilt my injectors because I felt like some were either leaking or stuck or something.

First impressions after changes regarding the tuner and injector rebuild - So the car feels "tame" or smoother. Like it feels as if it is running better. I don't know if I got a performance gain yet I will update after the end of the week. I did ask for a couple of tunes so I'll change between them to see if the 87 is any better then the 93 or vise versa. The main goal is to have the car run smooth and no codes coming from the long tube headers. (o2 delay should have been changed for my car)

Planning to change the tires; going to try and get 275 size tires on the rear, hopefully getting a much better wheel gap and also helping raise the rear up a bit so my mufflers don't scrape anymore.

OneSick99GT · Apr 22, 2020

Your getting a lot more consistent flow of those injectors instead of spit and spat so the smoothness your enjoying is from having those flow tested and cleaned. Overall efficiency should go up and be a lot better on your cylinder walls in the long run cuase its not leaning out, which means more heat, so less heat, better combustion is a win win scenario.

Junkyard 03GT · Apr 22, 2020

Onesick99GT said:
Your getting a lot more consistent flow of those injectors instead of spit and spat so the smoothness your enjoying is from having those flow tested and cleaned. Overall efficiency should go up and be a lot better on your cylinder walls in the long run cuase its not leaning out, which means more heat, so less heat, better combustion is a win win scenario.

YES, I'm so happy about that. I saw your photo album, are you running stock tire size?

OneSick99GT · Apr 23, 2020

My car is currently waiting to have the motor pulled in my garage. I have 245's(stock) on the front and rear but ordered 275's for the rears with the deep dish rims to properly match tire profile. The tires are street slick Mickey Thompsons. I already have the tires and rims but waiting until the motor gets pulled for the rebuild process. I have all manley forged internals setting aside with all new componants for the rebuild. Timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump, gaskets. About 5k in parts to go with the motor rebuild. Im raising the compression to 10.8 and having it bored over .20. HP should be around 500hp to crank NA with my supporting mods. 1st, 2 and third would spin the tires. I have to change the suspension up a bit on front and rear for weight transfer to help them grab but once I do hold your britches.

Olivethefet · Apr 24, 2020

Very nice build thread! I just finished reading through it. I wish I could help you out, but I haven't worked on your model of car so I dont have any advice. I do appreciate the detail that you have put into this thread. The new edge cars are really starting grow on me.

Junkyard 03GT · Apr 24, 2020

Onesick99GT said:
My car is currently waiting to have the motor pulled in my garage. I have 245's(stock) on the front and rear but ordered 275's for the rears with the deep dish rims to properly match tire profile. The tires are street slick Mickey Thompsons. I already have the tires and rims but waiting until the motor gets pulled for the rebuild process. I have all manley forged internals setting aside with all new componants for the rebuild. Timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump, gaskets. About 5k in parts to go with the motor rebuild. Im raising the compression to 10.8 and having it bored over .20. HP should be around 500hp to crank NA with my supporting mods. 1st, 2 and third would spin the tires. I have to change the suspension up a bit on front and rear for weight transfer to help them grab but once I do hold your britches.

Thats awesome man, are you doing a progress thread or any videos on it I would love to check it out!

Junkyard 03GT · Apr 24, 2020

Olivethefet said:
Very nice build thread! I just finished reading through it. I wish I could help you out, but I haven't worked on your model of car so I dont have any advice. I do appreciate the detail that you have put into this thread. The new edge cars are really starting grow on me.

Thank you! I got super lazy on the build, keeping up with photos and reminding myself to write things down for the thread. So thank you, hopefully I can help others doing the same in the future.

OneSick99GT · Apr 25, 2020

03GThoopty said:
Thats awesome man, are you doing a progress thread or any videos on it I would love to check it out!

Yeah ill post it here later today. Not much going on right now though. I wont be pulling the motor until the fall of this year.

Junkyard 03GT · May 5, 2020

update:

1.Rear deck speakers replaced BACK to OEM mach 460 speakers // REASON - rear deck speakers would cut off at high volume or heavy bass.

2.Cleaned IAC due to a weird random stall, I also ordered a new motor craft unit since the one I have currently isn't branded or marked with anything. Could be a aftermarket cheap one.

Back on the A/C system now (I already replaced the blower motor/resistor and condenser.

Fast forward to now and the Texas heat is way too hot to be without it. HOWEVER the ac system had a leak at the connections to the condenser. I replaced the o rings and lubed them with PAG 46 oil and still got a leak when adding new refrigerant.

I need help finding oem replacement o rings if anyone can help out with that.

Junkyard 03GT · May 12, 2020

update:
no CELs // on 87 tune (cheaper) // new oem iac

NEW motorcraft IAC (RIGHT)
* I did not reset the car or disconnected the battery for this replacement. I think it drove better (placebo effect?)

* reason for this change: - idle goes down when braking hard to a stop. Also kind of bucks (sometimes) as if it wants to just go when slowly releasing clutch on first gear.

new TPS sensor / computer reset / clutch cable or better driver maybe needed..

- - Currently haven't got the AC leak fixed either for the 2 o -rings at the condenser. - -

Junkyard 03GT · Jun 23, 2020

Long update: more wrecked mustang parts

AC system - AC condenser o-rings were replaced by getting them off a wrecked mustang and using those. Refrigerant holds however there may be a small leak or may need more refrigerant since its been about a month and its still cold but not as cold as when first filled.

Problem: AC drain melted from the beginning of the build there was a header exhaust leak and I assume it melted the crap out of the ac drain outlet. I poked a hole into it and ran a wire to see if I could get crumb out but nothing was found. Water gets poured into foot well when ac is running for a couple of hours. I haven't driven the car in about a week since doing this so I don't know if its fixed or not yet.

1. I got a new headliner off a older year mustang that had a pristine headliner in it. Along with that I took the mirror visors to match.
2. Hood prop holder was taken off a wrecked mustang as well
3. AC vents were cracked or broken so I took a couple of them off some wrecked mustangs in perfect condition

*Defroster tab got re-done but this time on the passenger side.

Exhaust Note:

I have been trying to find a muffler or exhaust that sounds anything but raspy. The SR performance mufflers sound good when revving/High RPM(3K+) but are quiet at idle and under 3K RPM when driving it isn't that loud in the cabin.

So far I tried the famous SLP resonators and sound good at idle and under 3K rpm but are too raspy at higher RPM.

Then I tried these cherry bomb mufflers which are the same as the SLP ones but have a V plate inside and that sounded good up until 3K RPM with full throttle

I am currently back on the SRP mufflers and waiting for a new 2 Chamber mufflers to come in on Friday to test out.

2Blue2 · Jun 23, 2020

Ohh I like new to me used stock parts.

Maybe chamber mufflers with resonators? IDK lots of extra work.

Junkyard 03GT · Jun 23, 2020

2Blue2 said:
Ohh I like new to me used stock parts.

Maybe chamber mufflers with resonators? IDK lots of extra work.

I got no idea, I want just a deep rumble at low RPM which most of these exhausts do except my current one lol ...but after 3K its just too raspy or "trumpety" and I just want best of both worlds.. I even got a welder just for this and some more projects coming up later this summer!

2Blue2 · Jun 23, 2020

Exhaust cut outs and turbos?

2Blue2 · Jun 23, 2020

A wise man here on Stangnet once said, build the engine and the exhaust note will work itself out.
Cant remember who though....

Junkyard 03GT · Jun 23, 2020

2Blue2 said:
A wise man here on Stangnet once said, build the engine and the exhaust note will work itself out.
Cant remember who though....

nothing is set yet but everything you say sounds good haha

Junkyard 03GT · Jul 9, 2020

my exhaust sounds terrible, what a waste of time haha..

new rubber insolators
made a xpipe mount
2 ebay 2 chamber mufflers
muffler hanger mounts
added down turn cut outs

// replaced left tail light and all light bulbs

Progress Thread 2003 Ford Mustang GT Build Log

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I will own your nuts! LOL

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will be trying this sex one when I can find it

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will be trying this sex one when I can find it

will be trying this sex one when I can find it

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