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Wwhite
I may have the capacitors you need and will gladly mail them to you for free. Take a look at the photos and if it’s what you want I will throw a few in the mailbox for you tomorrow.... 3 capacitors are needed in total but 2 are one in the same so it’s 1 type capacitor and then 2 of the same types for a total of 3.
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Excellent offer man! And yes, i would advise the OP to keep those specs factory if you can just to keep things simple. Some of the values can change and some can't without getting into all that. No need to make it difficult. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Excellent offer man! And yes, i would advise the OP to keep those specs factory if you can just to keep things simple. Some of the values can change and some can't without getting into all that. No need to make it difficult. Let us know how it goes.
I'll say. Talk about pay it forward!
Just joined the forum.
I know this thread is close to a year old, but our EEC-IV date back to pre-1989.

The reason I found this thread, and the reason I ordered new caps, is that I pulled my EEV-IV one(1) year ago, and noticed the cap leakage.
Leaking down the circuit board, very faint brown.
Only reason I noticed it is because dust collected on it.

EEC-IV works perfectly, but +25 year old caps, with miniscule signs of leakage..., I'm replacing them.

My current 1994 351w has a very strange miss, randomly at hwy speeds.

I'll put in new caps, swap the computer, and if it goes away, that was the intermittent miss.

Since this thread is about capacitor replacement, Who Wants Photos?
 
Here is the board, sitting since September 2021 on the shelf, worked perfectly in vehicle.
Looking at the picture, from top to bottom, I'll refer to the capacitors as #1, #2, and #3.
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Cap #1, shows signs of leakage, hard to see just looking, but under the magnifying glass, it's bad.
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Next up, identify the capacitors pins, identify capacitors orientation, flip board and desolder/unsolder remove the capacitors.
 
When removing the capacitors, there are basically three(3) ways:
1- clip cap off one side, then fight with the little wires and solder to get it clean
2- pull slight pressure out on cap, while heating solder side to melt solder, unit will pull out easily
3- heating solder side, use solder sucker to remove

Problem with #2, you can pull a trace off the board if the temperature is not correct.
 
Never had anyone do a write up inside of my write up....lol.... But ok.
Just let everyone know this is not a fox body computer and the pics showing cap locations aren't the same as Fox computers.
 
Then solder. Just like welding, just solder has a lower melting point.
If you end up with a dull, not shiny solder joint, its a cold solder joint.
You want nice bright shiny solder joints. Lots of practice!
Use tiny side cutters, clip the excess leads close to solder joint.

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