Doh! Well, I've never put the engine back in the car with the trans still in the tunnel. Doesn't seem like the easiest undertaking. Like SSeater said, it probably isn't fun to do, but can be done with great care and finesse!
Build Thread Finally! 89 Notch 2v Swap Progress Thread Project: 89mach1
- Thread starter CarMichael Angelo
- Start date
Doh! Well, I've never put the engine back in the car with the trans still in the tunnel. Doesn't seem like the easiest undertaking. Like SSeater said, it probably isn't fun to do, but can be done with great care and finesse!
Well one of the reasons I left it there was because the gay-assed summit shifter has a non-removeable handle (whole shifter has to come off) The other is it's full.
OK, I know this seems like engine pulling basics 101, but every time I've dicked w/ a full transmission most of it ends up on the floor. Is there a real cap that goes in place of the yoke, that'll keep the trans fluid "in" the trans if I pull it out and reattach outside. AND keep it there despite the angle that it'll have to go in at? I know I can drain it first, but even after that there always seems to be a 1/2 qt hiding somewhere inside that finds it's way out when the engine is tilted.
OK, I know this seems like engine pulling basics 101, but every time I've dicked w/ a full transmission most of it ends up on the floor. Is there a real cap that goes in place of the yoke, that'll keep the trans fluid "in" the trans if I pull it out and reattach outside. AND keep it there despite the angle that it'll have to go in at? I know I can drain it first, but even after that there always seems to be a 1/2 qt hiding somewhere inside that finds it's way out when the engine is tilted.
Well Since its out, I'm for sure gonna paint the block. Since I can mock it up, and since I plan to strip off the paint on the intake and valve covers, I'll see if I like them raw. Nothing will be raw really anyway, I have to clear the base color on the engine, if I like the raw look on the other things, I'll use some clear engine enamel over that stuff as well. I'm leaning to a mix of red and black.
It'll probably end up just as red as it is blue now, and I'll have to post another whiny-ass thread asking for cosmetic advice again.
If it does, at least it'll match the rest of the car
Mike, if I were pulling the engine out, I almost always pull the trans too. It's just been easier in my experience to get the pilot bushing and clutch splines all jiving together out of the car. I've pulled many transmissions for repair or clutch jobs, and it's hard enough stabbing them under the car, I can't imagine trying to hit the trans with an engine on a one arm bandit at the correct angle. However, I'm sure it can be done, and there are more than a few ways to skin a cat...
Just my .02
I know I'm going backwards, answering questions/comments from last to first, seems like the thing to do. I put the thing in originally as a complete assy. I forgot when I pulled the heads last week that I had done that. The passenger header is such a pain in the ass to install (because the bolts have to go in underneath the tubes) that I used the factory studs and nut to install that side. I could get to all the nuts, ( only took about,...Ohhh AN HOUR!) but I couldn't get the damn header back off the studs because it was so close to the strut tower. I had to pull the head w/ the stupid-assed header still attached, and wrestle it off the head. I tried to remove the studs, but I only got one or two out.
(them bitches were loctited in the head by yours truly.)
Why would I do such a dumb assed thing?? Because every time I took the header off when I was building them, the damn studs kept coming out like a bolt. I decided to "fix" that.
I was pretty pissed when I thought I was gonna have to pull the whole engine to get that header off. I had to stop throwing stuff and think.
Bottom line, that header is reason enough to reinstall the whole engine/ trans as an assy again. But this time, I'll use bolts, and throw those stupid studs in the trash! (if I can find them all after throwing them as hard as I could out the garage door ) Probably might have hit something inside and ricocheted,then there'd be another paint fking up stupid story to tell.
Looks like I'll keep it simple and reinstall the whole mess again.
As for there being more than one way to skin a cat? I'm sure the cat will be glad it still has it's skin ( it's getting cold these days).
I’m probably the last guy on here that anyone would take advice from on what “looks good” but, an all red eng might not be as good as a red/black mix with a clear coated aluminum intake. I’m a big fan of your project so please don’t take that as being disrespectful. It’s just an opinion. As for the loc tight story, I’m sure we have all done things like that. Things seem like a good idea at the time and then when you have to go back later you realize it wasn’t.
Hey, no worries I don't consider any comment disrespectful just because you think one color might not look as good as another. Unlike a few others that ask for input, I understand that there will typically be three types of answers
#1 Positive. (To which I think to myself, thank you)
#2 Negative ( To which I think to myself, go fk yourself)
#3 No Reply ( To which I have nothing to say to back)
Seriously, some negative feedback is beneficial/ constructive. Most is belligerent/unnecessary. I said on another thread that It bothers me when somebody doesn't like what I do, but for the most part I listen and if the advice is warranted, I'll heed it.
I've changed my instruments and my wheels as a result of the advice given on here.
ID89GT
10 Year Member
Milestones:
There are so many getting ready to happen, I figured that I'd post them in pieces rather than in one big lump.
This post will be about the rear.
The 5 lug conversion is complete. The rear suspension was installed yesterday, and the 8.8 has received a refresh. (new bearings, gears (3.73 gears Up from the 3.55's that were in there) T-lock rebuild, new Ranger axles, and of course, the Cobra conversion kit from North Race Cars.) The control arms are reinforced, w/ new Steeda bushings. It's all been cleaned and painted under there.
Next will be the wheels and tires, put on for good. I still have a few things to do while it's up in the air, and I'll post those up then.
There are so many getting ready to happen, I figured that I'd post them in pieces rather than in one big lump.
This post will be about the rear.
The 5 lug conversion is complete. The rear suspension was installed yesterday, and the 8.8 has received a refresh. (new bearings, gears (3.73 gears Up from the 3.55's that were in there) T-lock rebuild, new Ranger axles, and of course, the Cobra conversion kit from North Race Cars.) The control arms are reinforced, w/ new Steeda bushings. It's all been cleaned and painted under there.
Next will be the wheels and tires, put on for good. I still have a few things to do while it's up in the air, and I'll post those up then.
Attachments
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Hose clamps to hold the brake lines. Really? You couldnt do better than that Mike?I expect more of you man!!
I am but a mere mortal, and unfortunately, I don't have some slick solution for every thing I touch.
Lets just say that I'm running out of time for the nit picky stuff. I'm not happy w/ any of the brake lines on the rear (including the provided soft lines) so I will move the rear brake line aesthetics to a back burner until I get a "better idea".
Whatever it is/will be, it cannot involve drilling that rear as it is sealed and full of synthetic oil.
Thanks. I see now why nobody does it. The bushings ended up costing 100.00 and the time, mess, and hassle of getting everything prepped and ready to install makes a 299.00 set seem like a bargain.
And they say I have a hard head.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
I am only gonna wipe it if there is any visible leakage. Otherwise, I'm hoping the black rear cover will conceal some of the solid chunky stuff.
You know,..like road tar, and other miscellaneous goo...
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Mike, I do have 1 idea to solve the hose clamp. At work we use small rivets to put tags on bearing housings.You just hammer the rivets in and they swell up when you hit them. You only have to drill a very small hole in diameter and depth. You could use these rivets to secure a small line clamp over the brake line. You wouldn't have to drain the rear and you do not need to drill through... I can send you some if you want to try it.
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