Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

[evintho]

I gotta figure out my VAM wiring, stingers write up doesn't explain much about the re pinning process, if anyone has a good video please send it!!!

No video but from the internet write-up I used on mine before Stinger even started Stinger Performance..........

1) Locate the EGR position sensor plug (3wires - ORG/WHT, BLK /WHT and BRN/LT GRN) that's on your Mustang harness.
2) Cut the ORG/WHT wire (pin 26) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VRef wire (ORG/WHT) that's on your VAM harness.
3) Cut the BRN/LT GRN wire (pin 27) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VAF (WHT/BLK) wire that's on your VAM harness.
4) Cut the BLK/WHT wire (pin 46) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VAM Signal Return (BLK/WHT) wire that's on your VAM harness.
5) Move the DK GRN wire (pin 33) from the EGR Vent Solenoid on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug to pin 43.
6) Locate the EGR Vent Solenoid plug on the Mustang harness and cut both those wires (RED & DK GRN). Connect the DK GRN wire which is now coming from pin 43 to the Vane Air Temp (LT GRN/PURPLE) wire that's on your VAM harness.
7) Cap off the remaining RED wire from the EGR Vent Solenoid.

In addition, to retain the TC EGR valve (which you'll need for CA smog) simply move the YEL wire (pin 52) on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug to pin 33 on the same computer plug.

To move the two wires on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug (repinning), use a very small screwdriver to remove the red insert in the connector.
Then pull gently on the wire you wish to remove. Use the very small screwdriver to reach in the other side of the connector and very gently pry up the tiny plastic finger to release the pin. Tread very carefully here. That tiny piece of 35 year old plastic is beyond brittle and will break if you look at it funny! Also I'm sure there's a YouTube video out there that'll show you how to do it. Hope this helps.

 

[Piranahbite]

This looks like a hole:

hmm... indeed it dose.... ill go pressure test it!

 

[Piranahbite]

No video but from the internet write-up I used on mine before Stinger even started Stinger Performance..........

1) Locate the EGR position sensor plug (3wires - ORG/WHT, BLK /WHT and BRN/LT GRN) that's on your Mustang harness.
2) Cut the ORG/WHT wire (pin 26) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VRef wire (ORG/WHT) that's on your VAM harness.
3) Cut the BRN/LT GRN wire (pin 27) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VAF (WHT/BLK) wire that's on your VAM harness.
4) Cut the BLK/WHT wire (pin 46) from the EGR position plug and connect it to the VAM Signal Return (BLK/WHT) wire that's on your VAM harness.
5) Move the DK GRN wire (pin 33) from the EGR Vent Solenoid on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug to pin 43.
6) Locate the EGR Vent Solenoid plug on the Mustang harness and cut both those wires (RED & DK GRN). Connect the DK GRN wire which is now coming from pin 43 to the Vane Air Temp (LT GRN/PURPLE) wire that's on your VAM harness.
7) Cap off the remaining RED wire from the EGR Vent Solenoid.

In addition, to retain the TC EGR valve (which you'll need for CA smog) simply move the YEL wire (pin 52) on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug to pin 33 on the same computer plug.

To move the two wires on the 60 pin Mustang computer plug (repinning), use a very small screwdriver to remove the red insert in the connector.
Then pull gently on the wire you wish to remove. Use the very small screwdriver to reach in the other side of the connector and very gently pry up the tiny plastic finger to release the pin. Tread very carefully here. That tiny piece of 35 year old plastic is beyond brittle and will break if you look at it funny! Also I'm sure there's a YouTube video out there that'll show you how to do it. Hope this helps.

it definitely dose, i think the issue im having is were to look at my egr harness, do i look at it from the connector to the valve itself? or is there somewhere else i should look on the harness

 

[evintho]

Besides the EGR Valve connector, you have 2 other EGR system connectors on your Mustang harness.
1) EGR Position sensor
2) EGR Vent solenoid
I assume the connectors are all disconnected from the components. Just snip the wires behind the Position sensor and Vent solenoid connectors. You can throw away those 2 connectors as you're not going to use them, only the wires. Don't cut the EGR Valve connector wires! You're going to use the EGR Valve connector. That wire is to be repinned in the 60 pin Mustang computer plug.

 

[Piranahbite]

Besides the EGR Valve connector, you have 2 other EGR system connectors on your Mustang harness.
1) EGR Position sensor
2) EGR Vent solenoid
I assume the connectors are all disconnected from the components. Just snip the wires behind the Position sensor and Vent solenoid connectors. You can throw away those 2 connectors as you're not going to use them, only the wires. Don't cut the EGR Valve connector wires! You're going to use the EGR Valve connector. That wire is to be repinned in the 60 pin Mustang computer plug.

Hell, i need pictures, im assuming the position sensor is the one connected to the egr valve, wich is on the pipe?

The egr vent solenoid.... Wut da hail is that, and were do i find it on my harness?

As far as my vam harness, i got a new one from stinger, ill check to make sure the colour's match

 

[Piranahbite]

This singular plug is all im really able to define from all the instructions

 

[evintho]

I have no pics but looking at some wiring diagrams I have, The EGR Position sensor is a 4 prong connector with one prong blanked out. It looks like that may be the one in your pic. Check the wire colors. If it has BK/WHT, ORG/WHT and BRN/LT GRN wires, you've found it!

The EGR Vent solenoid is also known as EVR or EGRV. It should be fairly close in proximity to the EGR Position sensor. The EGR Vent solenoid connector is a 2 prong piece with RED and DK/GRN wires. Also, if you happen to get to Sacto, Pick-N-Pulls Mather yard has a '90 Mustang w/2.3 that you could verify component placement and wire colors. Should be the same as your '87 harness...........

Pick-n-Pull

www.picknpull.com

 

[Piranahbite]

Heres my lil checklist and a quick pic of my progress! I got a bunch of little things to do, and the two and a half big things

1 being fix the ac line thats trying its hardest to get pinched between the shock tower and turbo,

2 being rout vaccum lines and boost regulator

The .5 is finishing the ecu wiring, all i managed to do was pull my ecu, im still psyching myself up for the actual snipping of the wires part, hoping to find something that just slaps me in the face about that 2 wire egr conector.

I see the three pin connector, specialy because theres nothing for it to plug into now since the egr sensor thing is gone

 

[Piranahbite]

@evintho these are my egr plugs that iv ohm tested that go to the valve itself! Im assuming atleast two of these wires im supposed to connect my vam harness too, and ome of them goes to my solenoid thing behind my strut tower, right? And then the ecu stuff.

 

[Piranahbite]

Or can i just not include it? I canned the smog idea, im gonna register the car in Montana, no smog no inspection. Whats the easiest way to get this movin?

I have a lil more freedom with some things, but it dosent let me escape the EGR wiring issue im havin.

Id love some help with somone who knows this swap. Iv emailed shannon at stinger, waiting to hear back. Id love to do a video or call or somthing, the wiring itself seems easy, its just me worrying about having things wrong

 

[evintho]

Don't worry so much. It looks like you've found the EGR Vent solenoid wiring. In the first pic, the connector on the left looks like a 2 prong connector with RED and DK/GRN wires. Clean off the wires to double check the colors, then go to your 60 pin ECU connector and make sure the same color DK/GRN wire is going into pin #33. If so, at that point, carefully remove it and insert into pin #43. Just cut the RED wire at the connector and cap it off.

I think we determined that the connector in the 4th pic, with masking tape marked EGR, is the EGR Position connector. Follow the instructions in post #341.

I would suggest just keeping the EGR Valve. Ford put millions of $$ into R&D and the LA3 ECU is tuned specifically for an EGR Valve. Don't fool with success. The only wiring change to make the EGR Valve function properly is repinning one wire on the 60 pin connector. The valve itself operates off one vacuum line.

My question is, how can you register the car Montana and still run CA plates?

 

[Piranahbite]

Okay, new question, im

Don't worry so much. It looks like you've found the EGR Vent solenoid wiring. In the first pic, the connector on the left looks like a 2 prong connector with RED and DK/GRN wires. Clean off the wires to double check the colors, then go to your 60 pin ECU connector and make sure the same color DK/GRN wire is going into pin #33. If so, at that point, carefully remove it and insert into pin #43. Just cut the RED wire at the connector and cap it off.

I think we determined that the connector in the 4th pic, with masking tape marked EGR, is the EGR Position connector. Follow the instructions in post #341.

I would suggest just keeping the EGR Valve. Ford put millions of $$ into R&D and the LA3 ECU is tuned specifically for an EGR Valve. Don't fool with success. The only wiring change to make the EGR Valve function properly is repinning one wire on the 60 pin connector. The valve itself operates off one vacuum line.

My question is, how can you register the car Montana and still run CA plates?

got it! ill tackle the project when im home from school! i talked with chip about the project he sent me some schematics that show me were the wires go, and then i figured out alot on my own last night... im gonna see if i can start the thing tonight! not so sure im fit to race the car tomorrow, not comfortable running without knowing my boost and stuff, so ill just get it goin tonight!


and with registering the car in Montana i would lose CA license plates, but i would retain my California drivers license

 

[evintho]

and with registering the car in Montana i would lose CA license plates, but i would retain my California drivers license

A word of advice from an old fart whose been there and done that. Don't do that!
By law, if your car will have Montana plates you have 20 days to reregister it in CA and obtain new plates. American Canyon isn't a very big town. When the local cops see a 20 year old driving a modified Fox body Mustang, you might as well just install a neon sign on the roof that says 'ARREST THIS MAN'! You WILL be targeted!
Do it right. Put a Merkur cat on there and run it through BAR. I chronicled this in a previous post to you. That way it'll be 100% legal and the popo can't do a thing to you. I did that with Thunderstang and never had an issue. You'll still have to get a smog test every 2 years but all they'll do is shove a sniffer in the tailpipe. The visual test is eliminated. If it burns clean, you're golden.
Here's the BAR certification sticker.......

 

[Piranahbite]

A word of advice from an old fart whose been there and done that. Don't do that!
By law, if your car will have Montana plates you have 20 days to reregister it in CA and obtain new plates. American Canyon isn't a very big town. When the local cops see a 20 year old driving a modified Fox body Mustang, you might as well just install a neon sign on the roof that says 'ARREST THIS MAN'! You WILL be targeted!
Do it right. Put a Merkur cat on there and run it through BAR. I chronicled this in a previous post to you. That way it'll be 100% legal and the popo can't do a thing to you. I did that with Thunderstang and never had an issue. You'll still have to get a smog test every 2 years but all they'll do is shove a sniffer in the tailpipe. The visual test is eliminated. If it burns clean, you're golden.
Here's the BAR certification sticker.......

A word of advice from an old fart whose been there and done that. Don't do that!
By law, if your car will have Montana plates you have 20 days to reregister it in CA and obtain new plates. American Canyon isn't a very big town. When the local cops see a 20 year old driving a modified Fox body Mustang, you might as well just install a neon sign on the roof that says 'ARREST THIS MAN'! You WILL be targeted!
Do it right. Put a Merkur cat on there and run it through BAR. I chronicled this in a previous post to you. That way it'll be 100% legal and the popo can't do a thing to you. I did that with Thunderstang and never had an issue. You'll still have to get a smog test every 2 years but all they'll do is shove a sniffer in the tailpipe. The visual test is eliminated. If it burns clean, you're golden.
Here's the BAR certification sticker.......

what I'm worried about is not passing the inspection with a state ref, i cant use my oem intercooler and i have a big fat shiny turbo thats about the same size as the old blown ihi but just is shiny and new, and all this fancy piping that dose the same thing as my oem stuff. none of it is carb compliant. im worried if i take it to a state ref, they will flunk my car


also, the Montana plate thing will be registered to an LLC at an address, in Montana, that I am the manager of. so its not like im changing my personal adress, im driving a company car from montana, in california.... permanently.

plus here in american canyon our cops have other things to worry about, not to sound like a hoodlum, but iv been driving around this fart can dirtbike since i started this engine swap, and its got no plate and no lights, things slow af too, passed many cops and even gotten a thumbs up. i think their more focused on keeping the vallejo crime in vallejo, its been slowly creeping into my town over the past couple years.

 

[evintho]

what I'm worried about is not passing the inspection with a state ref, i cant use my oem intercooler and i have a big fat shiny turbo thats about the same size as the old blown ihi but just is shiny and new, and all this fancy piping that dose the same thing as my oem stuff. none of it is carb compliant. im worried if i take it to a state ref, they will flunk my car

An intercooler would fail BAR. You'd need to bypass it by running a pipe from the turbo directly to your throttle body. Pretty simple. Also, as far as BAR is concerned you're simply replacing your naturally aspirated 1987 Mustang 2.3 with a turbocharged 1987-89 Merkur 2.3. They're all factory Ford parts so nothing needs to be CARB compliant. In addition, BAR looks favorably on shiny new parts!

also, the Montana plate thing will be registered to an LLC at an address, in Montana, that I am the manager of. so its not like im changing my personal adress, im driving a company car from montana, in california.... permanently.

OK.....you've been warned. Good luck!

 

[Piranahbite]

Guys! Car! Starts! Goes... Vroooom then IDMIDIETLY shuts off, no idling at all

 

[Piranahbite]

I know i got a squeaky pully, i got a new one comin, i followed the directions on stingers write up to a T, could my VAM possibility be bad?

 

[Piranahbite]

UPDATE: car will not run with map sensor vaccum line installed, capped line off according to stinger write up.

Vam is mounted virticaly, somone said it may cause an issue, i dont see how, when vam is plugged in, car dies.

I am 1,000% positive i followed stingers write up to the T, so i am questioning my vam lol


Im installing my boost regulating system.

Chip from stinger says its okay to run a line from any position (did not say were on the vaccum tree, so assuming anywere is ok) and run it to the internal waste gate on the turbo with my boost controller in between the wastegate actuator, and vaccum tree. I put a lil cheapo guage from auto-bone in that circuit, and when idling the car reads about 10 lbs? -psi? Of vaccum, revved the car a lil and it increased, im assuming if i wanted to see it show boost id have to wait till the cars under load with the hammer down, sound right?

Anyway heres some pics of my routing. In the coming weeks, i plan to drill out one of the bosses on my turbo outlet and rout my waste gate to it so i have a more responsive connection, Without all the travel. I aslo bought a dual piston blow off balve (BOV) from stinger, and plan to use it, as of right now, i dont see how to. And figure i can get by if i stick the strongest spring in it, and dont hook it up, and just use the wastegate. ( I never plan to run more than 15-20 psi for now) but i figure having the BOV would just help me, and the engine in the long run, for redundancy

 

[Piranahbite]

Well, after a lot of trial and error, i got the fix to why my car wouldn't run with the vam plugged in. No it wasnt the ecu pinning, no it wasnt the map sensor, it turns out, i had the dam vam on the wrong way, super simple mistake on my part, also lack of knowledge on how and what the vam works/ dose. I got some guidance from Chip and he pointed out my vam is backwards. Started right up once I flipped it haha. Now its time to re make my vam braket

 

[evintho]

You beat me to it! I was just about to tell you that! I had the same problem when I dropped the motor into my roadster. A guy over on TurboFord told me my VAM was backwards. Happens to the best of us!