- Oct 21, 2006
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Whoops! Typo. 4000 RPMS lolYour launch rpm is suspect
I've launched my lawnmower higher than that![]()
Whoops! Typo. 4000 RPMS lolYour launch rpm is suspect
I've launched my lawnmower higher than that![]()
26x9 Hoosier SlicksYou should be in the 12's now and the combo your fellow racer mentioned probably wouldn't gain you anything over your current setup. What rear tires? play with the tire pressure a bit, unbolt one side of your front swaybar for more weight transfer while at the track and practice.
I had 3:73 with the original T-5 with 3:35 1st gear and it was a perfect combo. Then I bought a Tremec T-5z which has a 2:95 1st gear and it bogged badly. I have 4:30's now and it launches great. Wish I had gone with 4:10's due to the high rpms I have going through the traps. Close to fuel shut off.I have 3.55:1 gears, and I had to launch it at 6000rpms to keep it from bogging.
Kurt
My first gear ration is a 3.13:1 if I remember right. You want it to be high in the RPMs going through the traps. That's what makes it fast.I had 3:73 with the original T-5 with 3:35 1st gear and it was a perfect combo. Then I bought a Tremec T-5z which has a 2:95 1st gear and it bogged badly. I have 4:30's now and it launches great. Wish I had gone with 4:10's due to the high rpms I have going through the traps. Close to fuel shut off.
Weight reduction. 13.1-13.3 was full weight car when I owned it. When I bought back my car the previous owner he put a fiberglass hood and skinny front tires on. I ran 12.953 with it this July like that.Wait,did you change anything? How did you pick up 5 tenths?
My fuel pressure is at 42-43 psi with vac hose off. That's what I had found works best with the set up. I just don't want to spend money if I don't have too.The other option is to bump the fuel pressure a little bit to make the 24's flow a bit more. Then you would need to update the calibration for the improved flow rate and potentially a small shift in the injector offset time. But if you're planning on any additional engine mods that promote increased air flow, bumping the size up to have room to grow is probably the best path.
Makes sense. I don't plan on modding this engine though. It's simple and works great for bracket racing.Fwiw I never install anything smaller than a deka 60lb injector for boosted cars.
NA stuff I like to swap the clips and use the LU47 injectors
Shift at 5800 rpms. Trap rpm is 6200. Close to the fuel shut off. My tach stores the highest rpm.My question is what rpm range are you running or planning to run? If your calculations for 90% duty cycle are at 6000 rpm but you normally run no higher than 5500 or higher for only a blip, I wouldn't be worried.
What do you AFRs look like at 90%.
Ok thanks. So am I ok sticking with what I have now?When I had 19s on my combo I would shift at 5500 and trap around 5000 (AOD trans). My duty cycle would hit 95% but my AFRs were high 12s, low 13s. So high duty cycle but not long enough to get bad air fuel ratio.
I'm not loolking to go faster with 30 lbs. I just found that the 24 's weren't within the reccomended 85% duty cycle at my horsepower. That's why I'm here asking the experts here! I've raced the car for years like this with absolutely no problems. 5.0 stock bottom end, heads , cam and intake. No complaints whatsoever.Bracket racing is all about experimenting, try bigger injectors to see if you get faster but honestly I doubt you'll see a change.