Horse Power Gains?

I have 3.55:1 gears, and I had to launch it at 6000rpms to keep it from bogging.

Kurt
I had 3:73 with the original T-5 with 3:35 1st gear and it was a perfect combo. Then I bought a Tremec T-5z which has a 2:95 1st gear and it bogged badly. I have 4:30's now and it launches great. Wish I had gone with 4:10's due to the high rpms I have going through the traps. Close to fuel shut off.
 
I had 3:73 with the original T-5 with 3:35 1st gear and it was a perfect combo. Then I bought a Tremec T-5z which has a 2:95 1st gear and it bogged badly. I have 4:30's now and it launches great. Wish I had gone with 4:10's due to the high rpms I have going through the traps. Close to fuel shut off.
My first gear ration is a 3.13:1 if I remember right. You want it to be high in the RPMs going through the traps. That's what makes it fast.

Kurt
 
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So at 345 flywheel horsepower the 24 lb. injectors are performing at 90% duty cycle.
Should I go up to 30 lb. to meet the 85% duty cycle? Technically I would need a 25.37 lb injectors to meet the 85% duty cycle, so the next size up is 30lb.
 
The other option is to bump the fuel pressure a little bit to make the 24's flow a bit more. Then you would need to update the calibration for the improved flow rate and potentially a small shift in the injector offset time. But if you're planning on any additional engine mods that promote increased air flow, bumping the size up to have room to grow is probably the best path.
 
The other option is to bump the fuel pressure a little bit to make the 24's flow a bit more. Then you would need to update the calibration for the improved flow rate and potentially a small shift in the injector offset time. But if you're planning on any additional engine mods that promote increased air flow, bumping the size up to have room to grow is probably the best path.
My fuel pressure is at 42-43 psi with vac hose off. That's what I had found works best with the set up. I just don't want to spend money if I don't have too.
I've been running the 24's for quite a long time and no problems. I was just messing around with the calculations and found I was a little short.
So am I ok too stick with the 24's?
 
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My question is what rpm range are you running or planning to run? If your calculations for 90% duty cycle are at 6000 rpm but you normally run no higher than 5500 or higher for only a blip, I wouldn't be worried.

What do you AFRs look like at 90%.
 
My question is what rpm range are you running or planning to run? If your calculations for 90% duty cycle are at 6000 rpm but you normally run no higher than 5500 or higher for only a blip, I wouldn't be worried.

What do you AFRs look like at 90%.
Shift at 5800 rpms. Trap rpm is 6200. Close to the fuel shut off. My tach stores the highest rpm.
I just used the Ford Racing calculator to get a rough idea. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/pdfs/ProperlySelectingEFIComp.pdf
AFR's? Air fuel ratio right? Im running the stock computer and don't have any equipment to get that info.
Thanks!
 
When I had 19s on my combo I would shift at 5500 and trap around 5000 (AOD trans). My duty cycle would hit 95% but my AFRs were high 12s, low 13s. So high duty cycle but not long enough to get bad air fuel ratio.
 
Bracket racing is all about experimenting, try bigger injectors to see if you get faster but honestly I doubt you'll see a change.
I'm not loolking to go faster with 30 lbs. I just found that the 24 's weren't within the reccomended 85% duty cycle at my horsepower. That's why I'm here asking the experts here! I've raced the car for years like this with absolutely no problems. 5.0 stock bottom end, heads , cam and intake. No complaints whatsoever.
I really don't want to through money at it with injectors etc... if its fine like it is. When the time comes if I want to go faster, I'll get a race engine or a different car that's all set up. This car can be put back to street pretty easy the way it is, which is a good selling point if I decide to.
Thanks!
 
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