Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Status
Not open for further replies.
Mock-up.

F58BEF99-B71B-4784-984F-3E27BC876726.jpeg



Matches pretty good…no?
C4AA6D4E-AE8F-4970-9524-D2EF58D24ACF.jpeg
 
  • Like
  • Hell Yeah!
  • Love
Reactions: 4 users
  • Sponsors (?)


Here are the ones I just used, again. After installation, I like them just slightly more than the LMR ones. They both took some cutting/bending/welding, though I think that's par for the course when you've got an aftermarket exhaust, already.

 
Here are the ones I just used, again. After installation, I like them just slightly more than the LMR ones. They both took some cutting/bending/welding, though I think that's par for the course when you've got an aftermarket exhaust, already.



Have you used both? I’m torn between both of these and the flowmaster SS 2.5” tips.
 
A little caliper paint to match my car.

945AE589-5262-4CDD-8F98-A6C03079B387.jpeg


And rear setup is complete. Waiting for some plastic rod for the front so next update will be the finished car. Yes, the wheel is missing a lug nut. No idea where it went

ADF1858D-B414-4D26-B352-9201E6487707.jpeg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
What meter are you using to measure the decibels?
I was thinking of doing the same going from ultraflos to super turbos.

As for tailpipes, don't you need a set that clears the panhard bar?
I would not want to attempt to cut and weld the exhaust to clear that thing.
I prefer stainless, but the dynomax ultraflo kit that clears the bar is good enough for me, it's not like it's going to rust off in the garage. Probably 4 years old and still looks brand new.
 
Borrowed a meter from from work.

EDE7C29A-241C-4425-9727-328E17D91117.jpeg

I have confirmed that all those tailpipes do follow the correct routing for a panhard bar, as I’ve done some digging on the bookface groups. It’s really now down to what will be the best fit and finish and I think it’s a crapshoot given I’m pricing the exhaust together.

So at some point soon I’ll pick one set and let’s do this.
 
I have not committed to a TA at this time. My thought was to try out the PHB with the stock 4-link and maybe do a PM3L first and see how it goes. It’s not off the table, but I’m not buying one just yet.
 
Yep. Used both. Both required cutting/welding. Next time I'm under the car, I'll snap some shots. I've come to the conclusion that it's par for the course on an aftermarket exhaust system. On factory systems, pre-bent pipes probably work fine.

One thing I noticed is just how close these pipes came to the upper control arms. They only cleared because the Team-Z UCAs use adjustable rods. The stamped steel type would have required more cutting/welding to get clearance. These pics are not the new pipes but they give you an idea.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20220910-WA0012.jpeg
    IMG-20220910-WA0012.jpeg
    325 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG-20220910-WA0011.jpeg
    IMG-20220910-WA0011.jpeg
    319.7 KB · Views: 46
I have not committed to a TA at this time. My thought was to try out the PHB with the stock 4-link and maybe do a PM3L first and see how it goes. It’s not off the table, but I’m not buying one just yet.
Didn't know that was still a thing. I had thought it took alot of adjustments, some other supporting parts and it still ate bushings.

The reason i asked is that because personally i'm getting tired of doing things multiple times. The TA requires (well maybe not requires, but it's suggested) a different set of springs and there is a good chance the exhaust needs to be messed with where the H or X meets the flow tubes. I wish i had just done it all at once and got it over with.
With that said, admittedly i'm an MM fanboy (hurts to say that word, especially about myself), so whether i needed a torqure arm or not, i feel compelled to have all the parts from the kit and i'm almost there.

Fast, my experience with exhaust's is a little different, but i tend to stick to catbacks. I don't think i've ever installed a muffler in a system that was from a different brand than the tailpipes. I tend to like parts that bolt in and come out. I'm not necessarily a dynomax guy, but that catback slid right in (not quite slid, it was a pain to get over the axle) and cleared the PHB and the motorsport uppers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I have looked into the exhaust mods for the TA. MM does state my Bassani 3-peice X-pipe will work with the kit. So I shouldn’t need any changes there. But yeah, I’ll need to change my springs as well. You are right. Every significant mod like that requires additional changes and parts. Things get expensive fast.

Odds are, I may not go that far and just stop at the PHB with the standard 4-link and call it a day. If it binds too much, I’ll just remove the bar itself and probably leave it at that. I’m looking for a stopping point with my car and trying to wean myself off more mods like a 6-spd or IRS or TA. At some point, I need to stop and I think I’m getting to that point. I’ll also be honest. I want to spend money on some other stuff now.

I also agree in buying a cat-back vs piecing together a setup, but there isn’t a borla pro XS cat-back for an LX.

I do think I’m going to drop the rear axle out though. I want to take my flowmaster setup out in one peice without cutting. I also want to do a few things to the axle so I might remove it to make this all easy. Extra work maybe, but I think it might make some tasks a bit easier for me.
 
I know the feeling, once i have all the suspension in place I'm getting a REAL alignment and calling it quits other than paint (one day).
But i said that before and i just saw a whipple on facebook for $2300...

Personally i just want to cruise around with the kids at this point (which i have not ever done) so the car has to be right and i have to feel good about it.

Oh and the extremely loud exhaust needs to be addressed, maybe it wasn't so extreme when i was a kid, but it's way too loud for me now.

Not sure i could go back to no panhard bar, in fact i'd move it way up on the list of mods to have, just feels so much more predictable, though a bit harsher, wonder how swapping the heim joints out for bushings would affect things.

I know those borla's have no catback, for the most part, that's why i don't own them.
Based on my current muffler measurements i don't see a borla that even matches up (hence the idea of superturbo's which i can bolt in).
You running cats? I'm thinking about putting a set back on my car.
 
Yeah, I have the catted Bassani X-pipe. Real nice piece and fits well. It’s definitely not as quiet at stock cars but it knocks the sound down a tad and really cleans up the smell/fumes. Car is still loud though. I keep reading how the Borlas knock down the off-throttle sound a little, and I think that’s what I need.


Just remembered I did take some DB readings a while back with a different meter. I’ll redo these with the new meter before I swap to the Borlas

86 DB at idle outside
106db with a good 4000-5000rpm Rev
70db inside the car at idle.

The kilmat and sound deadener stuff really made a difference in the interior and knocking down the sound. I was impressed.
 

Attachments

  • 891E989E-A265-4856-BAB9-75812B0BA5F5.jpeg
    891E989E-A265-4856-BAB9-75812B0BA5F5.jpeg
    521 KB · Views: 45
  • AC566098-8020-490B-904D-2130F9618A0E.jpeg
    AC566098-8020-490B-904D-2130F9618A0E.jpeg
    407.5 KB · Views: 33
  • 6BE741D7-F912-4CA2-B6EA-BCBA295935E7.jpeg
    6BE741D7-F912-4CA2-B6EA-BCBA295935E7.jpeg
    298.7 KB · Views: 35
If I may I wanted to chime in here about running a PHB with both UCA’s installed…frankly it sucked. Rode rough and the rear was a little unpredictable in spirited driving. Normal day to day stuff it was okay but rode rough. Pulled the driver UCA on the advice of one of my friends that raced the American Iron series and holy crap the car was a different machine. Drove it like that for about two years then bought his MM torque arm as he was switching to a Griggs Racing setup. with both UCA’s gone and the TA installed it was again a different car but holy hell the grip is stupid. Very predictable, can just pour the power to it coming out of a turn or coming off a light.

If you are gonna do it go full MM monty as you will not regret it.
 
Pulled the car out of the garage. Prob last start of the year. Got the engine warm, checked a few things and then pulled it in the garage to drain the oil while warm. Will put in fresh oil.

Decided to take some new DB readings before I change my mufflers.

70 dB inside the car at idle (cold start)
85 outside at idle (cold start)
112 db at 5000 rpm.


Got myself a new phone (iphobe 14 pro max) and the cameras are really good. So I took some new pics to see how good it really was.

1D3123CA-902B-4E08-BE21-F677882CFDED.jpeg



Edit: just as a suspect. Uploading knocks down the quality a tad. Oh well.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 9 users
Status
Not open for further replies.