Yet another v8 swap
- Thread starter dulcimerbob
- Start date
Here's his post about them. Figured this would save you some time waiting and save him some typing. 
Hopefully he'll be around again soon to answer any other questions you might have about it all.
I used stock 66 Mustang exhaust manifolds because I had them already from a previous car (they are available as new part). I also used a 66 mustang downpipe from pypes and modified them:
Progress Thread Post in thread '74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver'
The pypes downpipe for 66 mustang which i started as an basis is now modified. I wanted to have some flex pipe just in front of the transmission crossmember and the exhaust hangers will be mounted to the crossmember. This takes movment from the rest of the exhaust...
I had to cut up the driverside downpipe because of my hydraulic clutch setup. If it was a cabel clutch the downpipe could have fit without modification.
I tacked it with my stick welder in my garage, then at a friends place we (mainly ma friend) weldet it up with his TIG.
The manifolds fit even with a T5 bellhousing and T5 transmission (but with custom hydraulic clutch). The car pulls strong, but its for sure restrictive at high RPM compared to a shorty header.
What I like is that you can use the stock securing sheet metal from the 66 manifolds, so the exhaust manifold bolts don't come loose. Beside that they are durable and quite down surface radiated noise in the engine compartment.
I have a stock 2001 explorer 5.0 as basis. If i would step up from the stock cam, i would buy or build shorty headers or log manifolds.
One shorty header that could work is this one (because it is made specific for 66 mustang):
I live oversees... so I have no option to return them if they do not convince me with their fitment...
Hopefully he'll be around again soon to answer any other questions you might have about it all.
welder4956
20+ Year Stangneter 
I measured the stock MII water pump at 5-3/8" from the gasket face to the pulley face. I did use a straight edge across the pulley face, but couldn't hold the tape measure and straight edge, plus take a picture.
Sorry for the poor photo.
Thanks for all your help . I found some stock exhaust manifolds and ordered them today. I am trying to make this swap easy as possible . I know they are restrictive but I'm not looking at HP just a good sounding driver . I figure with the truck motor and intake swap I'd be happy if I could get 225 or so. Ready to get started on the swap . Thanks again.
Meaning the 1 piece gasket? I've not looked to see if that's the actual culprit or if I have something else going on, but I used the 1 piece gasket on my engine and I am having leak problems from somewhere. So maybe all you need to do is use the correct gasket for the pan.
If there's someone stating other issues due to another seal, I don't think there's an issue at all. I mean swapping a Fox 5.0 into older vehicles has been done more times than anyone can count.
One piece pan gasket . Yes , that was it . Are you using the stock pan ? They are hard to find and 300.00 when you do. I was going to use a 77 pan and massage in to place one way or another . Project money getting a little tight.
welder4956
20+ Year Stangneter
I had no issues with using the late model one piece gasket with the stock MII oil pan on a 95 302 block.
I am using a stock II oil pan, the oil pan in the car is one of the only pieces of the original car's drivetrain that's left. But my engine is a 68 block, I don't know how much of a difference there is between the later models and the early models as to how they were machined in that area, but there is plenty of talk about the differences in oil pans in the quick searching I did.
What's involved with using that 77 pan. I found a stock MM11 pan for 300.00 with a hole in it. 77 pan is 60-75 new . Should I go for the stock ?The 1977 F150 oil pan looks more likely to fit than the 1990 version.
1977:
1990:
The only issue that I'm aware of is that it hits the rack and pinion and doesn't allow the motor mounts to be bolted. You can shim the motor mounts to adjust, I believe you'll need about 3/4".
Here's a link to the post in my thread about changing the pan gasket indicating the 3/4 inch engine lift.
Here's a link to the post in my thread about changing the pan gasket indicating the 3/4 inch engine lift.
