Hey guys I just installed a new coil over kit that included upper/lower rear control arms. The rear is super bouncy when driving on uneven surfaces. I did not reinstall the quad shocks as I understood that with upgraded control arms they aren’t needed? Any help would be greatly appreciated to help me figure this out

I am putting up StangNet's 67 Fastback project up for sale. I have way too many projects and feel this car needs to move on to a home that will finish the project. This is the only remaining Flashback that was offered by Classic Design Concepts. All tooling was destroyed or shipped to Australia. We have over 300 hours of body work done to the new Dynacorn body to get all lines perfect. It has been refaced (surface primer) and blocked 3 times and cut in with Guardsman Blue paint. Tons of parts go with the project for whomever picks her up. Serious inquires only please, this is a perfectionists build.

BODY
Started with new Dynacorn Body
Full CDC Flashback body kit
Fiberglass parts smoothed, trimmed and fitted
Gaps worked - metal added or removed
300 Hours bodywork, Upol refaced and blocked 3 times
Cut in with Guardsman Blue (paint included in purchase)
Body seams wiped in many locations
C Panels smoothed and indented
Cowl vents wiped
Engine bay - towers notched and wiped extra holes
Underneath texturized and body colored
Needs one more blocking and final fitting before paint after powertrain install

INSTALLED PARTS
RRS front coil-over suspension installed
RRS rear 3-Link Suspension installed
Curry 9" 3.70 gears installed in new housing
New fuel tank

MISC PARTS INCLUDED
Full CDC Flashback Interior panels/console
RRS Big Disc Brakes Front/Rear and Front Spindles
Front and Rear Windshields
Fastback Rear Seat Assembly
Misc Lights
Black Carpeting
Steering Column
Rear Tail lights
Total Control Front Strut Brace
Steering Rack
Fastback Interior Hatch panel
IDidIt Steering column
Many more misc parts

Some math
Dynacorn Body - $17k
CDC Flashback Body Kit - $7k
CDC Interior Kit - $7k
RRS Front Suspension/Brakes - $7k
RRS Rear Suspension/Brakes - $7k
Misc Parts Included - $$$
Body Work and Paint - $$$

== Over $60k

The hard part has been done, getting body prepped, fitted and perfected. Now it just needs the hobbyist to put a powertrain together, then have final paint applied.

ASKING $41K

Location: Auburn, AL

So I have a low mileage 95GT five speed that i purchased new but have been parked for 20 years or so with very little use. Car has apprx 50,000Km on the clock and is near mint condition and is bone stock except for a catback exhaust and 3.73 gears. I recently got the urge to get back into driving this car and the wonderful world of "old school 5.0". With that decision I have purchased the complete Trick Flow Street heat upper engine kit complete with TFS stage one cam. I've been out of this world for a very long time raising the family and such so Im pretty much starting off fresh again learning about this 27 year old car. I once knew this stuff inside and out in terms of parts need to go fast, bought every magazine i could find to learn and grow this car. Well along came kids, house and all that goes with that and here i am with my 27 year old GT just as i left her parked about 20 years ago in bay 2 of my garage.

So onto some questions to get started:

1. With this TFS engine kit im assuming I will need larger injectors, fuel pump, MAF meter, TB etc. Would anyone here know what combination would provide me the most reliable and drivable experience while netting good power from the TFS kit.

2. With the combination advised from #1, is there a need for a tuning device such as Tweecer or am i better off just getting it tuned at a shop with a dyno. I will say Dyno tuning is likely gonna be difficult to find close to me so "self" tuning appeals to me more....assuming the tuners are affordable and the info is available and not impossible for a 50 year old guy to learn the process. I am by trade a instrumentation and controls tech with lots of experience around oil and gas controls and PLC's so not scared of programming and PC's.

3. If self tuning is advised, what is the best product available and used for the EEC-IV in my 95GT.

I guess we will start with that and thanks in advance any help provided. Pic attached of my car before it was lowered recently.

Hi, I am new to this forum and am looking to change out my steering wheel on my 2009 GT, but I'm wanting to swap it with a 66-72 wheel and I was wondering how simple that would be or if possible at all.

I am curious about whether or not there is a larger spoiler like on my 2009 GT premium on any of the 2010 or 2011 models. Seems I have seen a photo of larger one on those two years but can''t remember or find again. Any suggestions or links? Thank you.

Hey. I’m new to this. I currently have an 02 GT. Currently located in central California.

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Does anyone know if the BMR Premium K-member will fit with a Moroso 20511 7 quart oil pan on my 347.
I had to notch my stock K-member and now want to ditch it and replace it with the BMR K-member.
BMR does not have information on all aftermarket oil pan clearance issues.

not new to the mustang world. Been on corral and SVTP for almost 20 years. I lost my old login for this website so I'm back as a noob.
Anyway, hope to learn and contribute equally.

So any secrets to get to the top nut on my rear shocks in a 83 Convertible??
Looked in my Factory manual and it said nothing.... Tried to come through the trunk and the canvas protector that holds the top when its down is in the way...
What if I remove the rear seat?

I have a few questions I have a 02 3.8l and wanted to know if I can use an after market K member that says it fits the 4.6l from what I have researched it does but wanted to confirm.

Another question is: Is the K member the same between the 99 convertible 3.8l as a 2002 3.8l coupe. With my 3.8l coupe I bent the k member and a partially on the frame rail about .5 inches and might need to switch over suspension, my upgraded diff and motor/transmission into a vert 3.8l shell if all parts would be the same.

Hello all! Glad to be part of the community again. Just picked up a 87 gt vert after being out of the game for 15 years! Glad to be back at it and hoping someone can help me with issues dealing with this aod nightmare I'm currently living. This is my 7th fox but first aod and so far it's not been good..

I have a 66 with a swapped 250. I'm having starting issues that I think may be pump related. I replaced the filters and still can't get it to start. I put a clear fuel filter in and it barely has any fuel in it after turning it over for a few minutes. Also, when I try to start, the starter cable from the solenoid to the starter gets really hot. Smoke actually comes from the cable at the solenoid.

Alright, was tinkering of the fox, looking for stuff to fix. Fixed the door chime. Decided to test out my ODB1 scanner because I never used it. Got code 11, great! then I got code 15.. not so great. Pulled the ecu thinking the ecu had a chip on it, nope.. In fact, I am 99% sure This is the first time the kick panel or ecu had ever been off. Checked for 12v at the connector " bottom right opposite side the locating tabs right?" and it has 12 v. That's where I stopped. I have another ecu on the shelf, it's for when I stick shift swap the car, but I kinda wanna confirm my issues before I start changing things. What else can I check? Did I check the right pin? I left the lights on the other day and drained the battery, would that cause it?

I'm buying head gaskets for the motor I'm rebuilding, AutoZone has a Felpro kit with 33pcs and rock auto has an engine tech branded kit including 31pcs the only differences iv noticed in the kits are: head gasket on the engine tech kit had blue rings around the coolant passageways, and the Felpro one dose not, the Felpro one has 2 small dowels that come with the kit, the engine tech one dose not. finally the Felpro one comes with a quark valve cover gasket and the engine tech one looks like it comes with the blue rubber Felpro gasket.

link for Felpro gasket set
link for engine tech gasket set

Also I dont know what the small washer looking gaskets are for, i think there in both listings but i would like to know because i dont remember pulling them off my engine while dismantling it.

parts in question are circled below (may have to open link above because of my circling job)

Ok guys, here's one that will blow your mind. I have a 2001 GT that won't start. Here's everything that I've done to resolve the problem. After changing the oil I went to start it and the PATS light was blinking like crazy... These aren't in any order, just a list of what I've done.

1). I had two new keys made.
2). Reprogrammed the ECU to disable the PATS system.
3). Checked all of the fuses both inside and under the hood.
4). Checked all relays.
5). Replaced the crankshaft position sensor.
6). Replaced the camshaft position sensor.
7). Checked the fuel cut off switch in the trunk.
8). Replaced the ignition switch.
9). The OBDII shows no faults.
10). Replaced the gas tank and fuel pump.
11). Have 63 psi fuel line pressure while trying to crank it.
12}. Replaced the CCRM module.
13). Replaced the MAF sensor.

At this point I'm open to suggestions. I'm on the verge of installing a Holley engine management system.

Thanks!

I have a 87 gt with a t5. I’ve been daily driving this car for a while and it’s been perfect. But recently I’ve been getting a popping noise coming from under the car when I push the clutch in, and I can feel it in the clutch. BUT it only does it after the cars been warmed up and I’ve driven if for like 10 mins. Jacked the car up and looked inside the bell housing and everything in there seems fine. I had someone push the clutch repeatedly and it went away when I pushed on the cable. I tightened the cable and put grease on the clutch fork and pivot nut(whatever it’s called) and it’s better but still happens when warmed up. Any advice helps, thank you

Hey all,

I'm having an issue with my 1991. The car has been sitting for a month or two with a leaking power steering high pressure line; I have not had time to fix it but I've been starting the car up every week and letting it get up to temp.

Last weekend, I started it up, everything seemed fine, aside from the leaking power steering line which I kept a close eye on. Car was running for maybe 3 minutes when it started barfing coolant out of the purge tank, which had become completely full. I shut if off immediately. No apparent milkshake in the coolant, didn't have time to mess with anything else. I don't know if it's a stuck thermostat, or if air somehow got in the system (bad radiator cap? Radiator is relatively new). Car had been driving fine before I parked it due to the issue with the power steering leak. It has had a "coolant low" light on intermittently for a while, but I had frequently checked the coolant and the level was fine.

To help in the diagnosis, below is a list of modifications done by the previous owner (according to him)...........sorry in advance for the wall of text……...

1991 Mustang LX 5.0 5-sp. hatchback.

Modifications per previous owner - all done within 10k miles ago (I have omitted suspension and interior mods for obvious reasons):

“Rebuilt” original 302 w/approx. 105k miles on car, 5k miles since rebuild; ARP bolts/hardware used
Ford Racing B303 Cam
SVE cylinder heads
Ford Racing hardened pushrods
Ford Racing hydraulic lifters
Trick Flow RR 1.6
Ported Ford GT40 upper and lower intakes with 1/2 inch phenolic intake plenum spacer
AEM adjustable FPR with liquid-filled pressure gauge
DUI Billet aluminum HD distributor with MSD coil
Summit Ceramic shorty headers
Cat deletes
Smog system deleted
H-pipe with Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
New brake master cylinder with brake booster
New aluminum radiator with overflow tank
New motor mounts (OEM)
Polished aluminum UDP’s (BBK)
Upgraded 3G alternator with wiring
New water pump
New timing gear kit with timing cover
New hoses for heater core and radiator
New heater core and AC evap
BBK fender well cold air intake
BBK 65MM TB with new IAC valve and Ford Racing adjustable IAC plate
New TPS sensor with adjustable plate
New IAT sensor
New oil pump with oil pressure sensor
New fuel pump (OEM) with fuel filter and fuel level sending unit
“Salt and pepper shakers reworked”
OEM computer checked and capacitors replaced
Chrome valve covers (not stock style)
New OEM harmonic balancer
New engine seals, including front and rear main seals
New OEM clutch fan

Since I have had the car, I have done the following:

New Duralast distributor with new TFI
New Accel coil
New AC compressor
New pushrods, guide plates, inspected lifters, and adjusted rockers - apparently there was an issue with the lash/preload adjustment and the
guide plates were gouged out a bit and there was some valve train noise. The entire valve train was inspected professionally, pushrods replaced in an abundance of caution, and rockers adjusted properly.

Car was tuned by Thunder Autosports.
New valve covers (old ones were leaking oil)
Rebuilt rear end again
Computer wiring checked, another new TFI put on
New power steering rack

I don't know what's going on. Should I run the car with the radiator cap off to try to burp air from the system? Stuck thermostat maybe? Head gasket? Cracked head or block?

Seems like just another random problem on a car that I've put a lot of money into and was "built properly" and then had been gone through by various mechanics and professional shops.

I just got a 95 Gt5.0, it didnt run when i got it, went through alot but now it runs, but it had a weird problem and im lost. A little back info, when i got it the original owner said it had a bad fuel pump, so i put a new pump, it started but ran like the timing was way off, no power, revved slow, was popping through intake. The car has 200k on it, so i went to check timing and realized it had alot of new parts, someone has been chasing this issue. New distributor, cap and rotor, new wires, new IAC, new tps, i put new plugs. Tried resetting timing but it was all over the place, pulled timing set chain was sloppy, new timing set. Now heres the weird part, when i started it first time after timing set, i forgot to plug in the maf, started perfect, reved like it should no missfire, after a minute or two it went into limp mode i plugged the maf back in and runs like crap again. Replaced the maf, runs way better but still randomly starts running like crap and popping again. Im out of ideas. When i changed the timing set i also added a new harmonic balancer. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Extra info, compression test showed 160-165 across all cylinders, fuel pressure holding 38-40, timing set at 14 with connector out. Issue is only between 1k-2k rpm runs clean about that.

Like the title says. Rubber, cork, RTV or something else? All insight or opinions are appreciated!

Hi I have a 1994 mustang that I swapped form a v6 to the 5.0L v8 and swapped parts so it basically is acting like a 94 gt. I have been having problems with the alternator not charging when the car gets warm and you leave it at idle. It dips down to 12.6 6 volts or something and reads low on the gauge but instantly when you get started going again it’s fine. I have replaced the alternator with one from a pick a park redid my grounds even putting on that was missing on the from the back of the intake. It seemed to help but not really with the charging at idle. My question are: What should be the stalk 1994 mustang gt idle for a stick shift (mine is just a tad bit over 500 but I have heared it is to be around 700) and would a low idle make a difference? Is this the sign of a bad ground, big draw from some place in the car or sign of bad diodes (I don’t think this because I have had the same thing with two different alternators). Hope some one can help.

Full Suspension Techniques/Bell Tech sway bar kit for a fox body. Never been used, missing end links. Rear sway bar was incorrectly welded on one side where it meets that square plate, so it's a touch off where it will not mount flush with the lower control arm on one side. Good for someone who can fix this on their own.

Please make me an offer. Local Pick Up only in the Los Angeles area.

More info:

I just bought my son an 04 3.8 v6 auto and having some issues. Got it home and found scanner would not talk to the Ecm, went to pic a part and got a new Ecm (from 04 3.9) after testing all powers and grounds. Installed new Ecm and now can communicate. Turn key and no fuel pump, so all the testing and find the pump bad, install new pump (yeah fuel pressure, showing 60psi through scanner). Still no start, it will start with staying fluid. Fuel issue, check for power at injectors and have 12 volts ( don't have a noid light, so I connected a 921 bulb, no light during crank (don't know if this would work or not). Checked cam position, in scanner I show 180rpm. Where do I go next?
No codes and keys programmed to the Ecm.
Thanks

Any guess on the value of this ? Asked on Facebook and got nothing useful. Works as it should. Needs a bulb for the clock. Deciding if I should sell or store it. I don’t see me keeping the car it came from long term.

2003 GT Convertible. Should be a simple fix, but my fan only blows on high. Would this be a switch or the fan itself. I am a fabulous plumber but the electrical is not my strong suite.