clutch cable broken

Hi all,

I just recently swapped my 1988 Mustang Alternator as it didn't seem to be charging the battery, etc. I've swapped it in successfully, wired it up, and confirmed when the car is running I'm seeing around 14.25V or so which to me indicates the battery is getting a steady charge from the alternator.

After driving around the neighborhood a bit today to get better with stick shift, I stalled out (still learning standard -- car was passed down from the loss of my father). Tried to turn it over and there was no charge it seemed. I used my battery jumper and was able to get the car running again until I got it home (it did take a while on my jumpstart which is odd -- usually this gives the charge immediately).

When I got home and turned the car off, I noticed all the interior lights etc, were out and not illuminating in any fashion. I tried to jump it again with my jumpstart and this time it seemed like there was no power making it to the cabin or starter. I even tried taking my multimeter to a few fuses in the interior fuse box and I'm seeing no voltage on any of the fuses (but in the engine bay I see 13-14v at the battery).

I looked at the infamous starter solenoid and I couldn't quite tell if anything was wrong with it, but I also don't see any fuses in or out of the solenoid FWIW so I'm not leaning towards a fuseable link being bad unless I'm missing something.

A few minutes ago I went out to the car, rolled the power windows up, and attempted to turn it over and it lost cabin lighting again and it's back to behaving like there's no power. I'm aware it's charging, but what would explain the nearly total loss of electric as I'd anticipate there's some residual.

At this point I doubt the battery is the issue, but I'm wondering where my electrical issues are likely stemming from? Part of me is leaning towards rewiring the whole alternator wire harness, but the fact that I see 14v when the car is on and 13v or so when I turn it off would indicate that it's getting a charge.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance and happy to provide pictures, video, or clarification wherever I can.

Tkx experts. Working on swapping out an aod to a tkx. The plan was to use the stock driveshaft. A 31 spline yoke came with it. Its markings are spr 1089 and c027. I need to get a new u-joint. Do I need to use a standard u joint or the 1330 or the hybrid?

EDIT: This post has turned into me seeing how much money I need to dump into the T5 to fix the whine


Its coming up on two years since I rebuilt my T5. Still holding strong.

After the rebuild, it still had the common 1,2,3, and 5th gear whine. Even with every single bearing replaced, it still whines. I even replaced the input shaft, as it had visible wear on the teeth and heat discoloration on the race. I believe the transmission was run low on oil at some point before I bought the car. Its sounds like a blower in 1st-3rd. 5th gear is subtle, but there.



If anyone has experience with a whining T5, I'd love to know how long it lasted and what it did before it blew... Like I said, mine is close to two years already of frequent driving. I beat the out of it too, but no power shifting or racing. I keep full synthetic ATF in it. It doesn't get very hot either, even on long trips. I can leave my hand on it for a few seconds. Shifts easily and smoothly.

Anyone see this? Thought?

Does any one know the original silver paint color name or code for the tubular GT40 upper intake manifold?

Mines been repainted a different (slightly darker) silver

* Be aware this is not a Mustang. It's a '89 H.O. and T5 swapped into a '63 Falcon.

Found this behind the engine! It does NOT match the 89 ho block though! Matches a 92? And a World Class at that! I am pretty sure all I have learned points to this being a 92 Tremec World Class. Do you agree?
I need a verification from someone who knows, I am considering tearing it apart myself and going through it, not because it's bad but because it's out.
The tail housing number is 13-52-0660-939 (this number was not made until '92?)
Here is the tag from the case and written here for clarification.




The numbers on the case agree with an 1989 Mustang GT Manual. Dates stamped in the case, the round date stamps, have 92 in the middle.
E9ZR refers to a '89 GT manual and is repeated on the tag. This is confusing. The number on the tail housing wasn't made until 92!
It totally looks like a World Class and I will treat it as such till told otherwise by someone in the know. I don't think I can post an outside image of one so duck duck go is your friend if you wanna take a look at one just click HERE.
More pics of mine can be seen in my build thread HERE.

I have a very original 1984 5.0 LX coupe.

I am unfamiliar with "quad shocks" so I am wondering if that is what I am seeing on my Mustang.

I see what looks like a long vertical shock and also a shorter longitudinal shock.

What I'm seeing appears to be original and I can see seepage, especially on the left side.

I think my car would probably greatly benefit from replacing the rear shocks.

Where would I find replacements like the ones that are on my car? And what should it cost to have the replacement shocks installed?

Many thanks for any help.

Here is a picture of the right rear:

I am looking for information. I need a passenger mirror painted and installed in my 2018 Mustang Pony. I live in the Panama City, FL area. Any Suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

Selling a 5.0L 1986 Mustang GT. Car runs and has lots of original parts & pieces. Doors and hatch have been replaced - from an '85. 141k original miles on the untouched motor. There are some driveway repairs and the car is NOT weather tight. This would make a good donor car for your project or piece it out if you have the space & time. I understand that etiquette would expect more details but this is a currently just a summer 'toy' car with very little to brag about. It is what it is. I maybe put 500 miles on it over a given summer. Again, this is not a daily driver. I have owned the car since '94. It was stored outdoors from '01 - '07 and has been in a garage since. I want to sell the whole car and am asking $2,000. Happy to answer any questions.

Im playing with MidJourney and creating AI art. Not really sure of a Forum yet as where to post these, but thought I would post some of mine up and see if anyone else was interested and wanted to start posting their creations. Mike



@Noobz347 @General karthief

Hey gang, new to the forum and hoping for a little guidance. We picked my wife up a 2005 Roush convertible last year as a weekend driver. It's in pretty good shape with the exception of the hood. It has the shaker package which I'm assuming was added with the Roush package. The cutout around the shaker as well as the underside of the front edge is starting to corrode under the paint. Would like to get this repaired, but not finding alot of information. Body shop says if they "fix" the existing hood, the corrosion will just return. I'd be happy to purchase a new hood, but haven't had any luck finding a hood with the shaker hole, I'm assuming it wasn't offered stock in 2005. Is my only option to find a stock hood and cut it and, if so, where would you guys suggest sourcing this?
Thanks in advance for any assistance,
Brian

Hey guys...

I currently have a supercharged 302 in my 1993 Notch. I currently run a V3 Vortech supercharger and I want to transfer that over to the 351. I need different mounting brackets for the supercharger. Anyone know where they make brackets for the V3 to mount to a 351W.

Thanks

I know, I know. Another guy with the wrong parts trying to make it work. Well… I did make it work. Sorta. I have an 89 lx 4cyl that I swapped in a 93 5.0 along with the 93 ecu and harness while keeping the 89 body harness. With some wire jumping I did get the car to run and drive great with the exception of the MIL on and a couple other quirks. Now I would like to go back in and clean up all the harnesses and re wire all the connections that need to be done that haven’t been wired yet. I have studied a bunch of threads on here with some VERY useful information but all the wiring diagrams that are easily available are just too vague. If anyone on here has a link to an 89 and a 93 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual it would be a tremendous help to make sure I get everything right. I would also like to document this on the thread because it seems like there isn’t much information floating around about doing this successfully ( it 100% can be done) and I would like to change that. My email is [email protected] thanks in advance

Hello Stangnet friends. Are there any emergency brake wizards out there? My son and I are building a street rod based on a 1976 Mustang II. The location of the e brake mount is on the top of the tunnel (horizontal mount) directly behind the shift knob. Previous experience is that pulling into 4th gear (4 speed manual) comes very close to the e brake handle. We would like to move the lever and handle to the passenger side of the tunnel (vertical mount) but maintain the vertical pull to set/release the brake. Putting the new e brake within 2-3" of the top of the tunnel will easily clear the passenger seat, but we don't want the lever and handle to encroach into the passenger's side more than 1-2". What I've been looking for is a vertical mount lever/handle/ratchet that can mount on the passenger's side but has a shaft extending through the tunnel wall to pick up the e brake cable. Seems like there has to be something like that but I just can't find it. Anyone have any thoughts? We want to stay manual (not hydraulic) and don't want transmission mount. See picture.

Hi. My 1993 LX 5.0 came without the rear defrost option and I’d like to add it.

I know I need a new rear glass with the defrost lines but can someone help me out with what else I need?

Thanks so much!

Hello mustang tech comunity.
I need some technical assistance in finding the right tall valve cover that gives me clearance over my scorpion roller rockers but is not too tall that causes too much interference with the plenum.
I know they GT40 plenum spacers but I have a engine brace and I do not want to go too high with the spacer. I see 1" and .5" available.
There is one more thing I need to stay within 100 budget on the valve covers.
I am seeing customer fabricated aluminum valve covers. Does anyone know if these would work in my application?
Pictures attached

Hey new to the site, I’m from Toronto. Here’s my rust-angg

It's been a few decades since I've changed valve seals and I've researched a lot of this however I haven't seen or heard anything on reusing the rocker arm retaining nuts, or torque specs, or any issues to watch out for. I have a fairly stock 89 5.0 with some bolt ons. Any advice appreciated

How much is the cost to replace motor due to lack of oil changes on time?

I recently replaced my alternator and wanted to replace worn out serpentine belt. Got the old belt off, guided the new belt on and there is absolutely no tension on the belt. Do I need a new tensioner. If so how does the old one come off. I'm new to this and would appreciate the help.

I have a 1995 mustang gt 5.0

I'm sure somewhere there is another post about this but I'm too lazy to go find it. Also, there is not a dyno close to me so I can't go see for myself.

I have a holley sniper efi system, high performance intake manifold, iron GT40p heads, B303, stock rockers, stock bottom end, 1 5/8 shorty headers, no emissions, and exhaust is just two flowmaster 40s.

I'm guessing around 250-270 crank? If anyone has some real numbers let me know.

I wanted to prime the engine before startup by spinning the oil pump with a drill. Pulled the distributor, attached a 1/4" hex driver to my long drill extension using the 2 small set screws, chucked it in my drill and went to town. After priming, I pulled it out and found 1 set screw missing! I looked really well and I can't see it down there. I'm hoping it'll just work it's way into the bottom of the oil pan. What's everyones thoughts on this?

Hello

1. Is this pic an 8.8 due to the Square-ish pot cover?
2. If when I open it up and find an open Diff, can I just find/order the Trac-Lok carrier.

89 5.0

At the Ford dealership the other day , they ran my VIN and said this car should have the 7.5 in it and it’s an LX 5.0 not GT model,
So I’m guessing someone went ahead and did the GT Ground KIT.

I’m learning quite a bit about this car I’ll say, some good, some not so great, but if the Diff can be converted I guess that’s on the win side..

Thanks Folks.

So long story short, my p1sc has started to go out on me, procharger wants $1800 to turn it into a D1. My setup now is accompanied with stage 1 MHS cams, full exhaust (no cats) Anderson power pipe, methanol injection and intercooler. I am trying to gather lightly used parts for my build, I have already got a teksid block, still has crosshatched and looks to be in good shape, I paid $200 for it, same day I picked up a forged eagle crank for $300 and just got a set of Manley cobra rods for $400. Hoping to have a bottom end fully assembled with machine work and all for $3000 or less. Does anyone have any input on this part of the build? Has anyone built something similar? I'm still deciding on pistons, as i need to have the block inspected, cleaned ect, to make sure I don't need oversized pistons. Also, is there a way to search for specific 4.6 parts on this site? TIA