Hi everyone I have a 91 mustang hot start problem when running after 20 minutes the battery is new but it’s not a big one? I would like a bigger one like a ?group 65 battery with more cranking amps .

it’s been a very big headache for me any help or tips to try I would greatly appreciate it . The car has the battery relocated New 2 gauge wire to factory locations up front . then from the solenoid I did a 4 gauge wire to starter. With a new a 14gauge? Signal wire.

This what’s all New new on it ? Starter distributor coil plugs wires
Map sensor
headers that are warped. Long tube
Tin diy heat Shield. Heat warped the starter wires too
I added 2 ground wires in the back
New alternator 3G set up
Tps sensor set
Timing at 10


I did the volunteer drop down test and got a
With coil off got 9.63 volts off the battery

But it seems like it starts gd cold no problem so its ? My wires to the back of car 2 gauge then to 4 gauge to the starter and alternator?
It’s something electrical?

But I’m at not sure what test to do ? Next or what video to watch for more help ? Was even thinking? A relay ?
Please help me or give ideas and information on what I should do .thanks guys and girls..

Just wanted to introduce myself. Names Patrick D and I am finally back in the foxbody game. I have previously owned a 1986 SVO mustang that I bought new back in the day. Traded that for a '88 LX 5.0 hatch, then traded that in for a '92 LX 5.0 hatch. I currently own a 2015 Steeda Q750 mustang 2015-003, and recently returned to my roots by purchasing a 1986 notch that my lifelong foxbody buddy @Wayne Waldrep found in Mississippi where it has been sitting 25 years in a climate controlled garage. Super excited to start the journey of returning her to life better than she was before. Plans include 5 lug cobra brakes, full road race suspension, and 347/vortech combo. Stangnet has a great bunch of folks and I look forward to interacting with all of you!!! See you around, Patrick

Is it normal to have moderate scoring where the cam ladders ride?

Not sure if this is the right place to post this? I got the new Series 8 iWatch and have my Series 6 up for sale. This watch is both cellular and WiFi capable and comes with a screen protector, the wrist band (size 8), charger and the box with all the paperwork. The cellular added $10 a month to my bill which for me is great as I can leave my phone at the house on walks / runs and it saved my butt a couple of times when I literally just left my phone at the house. The cellular does not have to be used so you can just use the WiFi and blue tooth to your iPhone to utilize the watch. Asking price is $300 firm (this is less than half of what I paid for it new about 18 months ago). Watch is in the Tulsa, OK metro, buyer pays shipping and I will cover the insurance.

New to me 08 gt . Car is a nightmare due to motor swap with supercharger and no idea what really has been done. On that note! The driver window is down and will not operate. The passenger side is up and the automatic drop and roll back up feature works but it will neither roll up or down either with neither switch. I’ve checked the fuses I have read about to check. No noise no nothing ! I don’t understand how the passenger side can drop when you open the door but not operate! The driver I have no idea as it was and still is down since I got it! Help!!

Set base timing at 13* BTDC with SPOUT out and with SPOUT back in it runs about 22*. Does that sound right? It also has a lopey sound to it but it's the factory roller cam. Open headers if that makes a difference.

Also, what's oil pressure supposed to be at? My SW electric gauge pegs at 80psi and stays there as soon as I fire it up. I don't let it warm up much 'cause no radiator installed just yet. New Melling oil pump......not hi-volume.

I got this out of Nevada. It's completely bone stock down to the exhaust even, no rust, and original paint

104k miles, needs some tlc, and the trans is slipping.

Gotta see this thing in person to really appreciate the condition

$4500 and can help arrange shipping

Phone #
313
300
1187

Hey guys, just picked up this rear end and was trying to figure out what it came out of. I was told a 93' cobra but it has no tag a TA rear diff cover and ssbc calipers with a few markings on the housing. It is 30 years old and obviously modified also was told it has 3.50 gears, I know cobra/svo/tbird came disc? I haven't ripped into it yet to get a closer look or measurments.....Thoughts?


Thanks, M.

Hello I need guiding, I sometimes want to clean the car and what not but I want to listen to music but I don’t want the car to be on and wasting gas would y’all recommend getting a bigger battery or adding a second one just so that I don’t risk completely discharging the car

Here is my Bullitt's pull on a Mustang Dyno, no modifications. We hit the speed limiter in 4th gear at 6700rpm.



Login to view embedded media View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ1ZaWOEu8I

Hopefully a straightforward one. I swapped the door lock actuator and I have lock/unlock (mostly) functionality on the passenger side now (prior, there was no movement -- motor was dead and the actuator I pulled out was beyond shot), but the lock mechanism itself (at the joint) feels fairly stiff even without the actuator connected. It moves with a fair bit of force either at the key or moving the door lock up/down.

I'm hoping a little bit of lube or grease will get this sorted out, but I'm curious if there's a general go to for the lock mechanism (picture of the area I believe is experiencing friction)?

Ok so I had to replace my battery cable and now I'm trying to put the bolt back through the cable and the hangar... that spot near the oil filter on the driver's side... and the bolt will not tighten.

If I only put the bolt in without anything else it will get tight, but I think it's hanging on a few threads MAYBE.

What would be the fix for something like this?

Or is there a way to mount the cable hangar and the battery ground in a different spot.

Thanks for any help

Hi I recently purchased a 1999 mustang and I'm having issues with getting it to go in drive. It will go in reverse but no forward gear. Please all help is greatly appreciated.

Excellent condition $200 shipped. Call or text 732 284-0892

Would like to have a 20 or 22 gallon tank in my 65 coupe. The 69 fuel tank has the same length / width dimensions but will the filler neck work?

Hi everyone! Not sure if anyone would recommend any transport companies to ship my stang. I was thinking about using Nationwide Transport. Thanks for all the help

The cable follows into the fan computer box next to the air intake. I can’t find anywhere to plug this in to and my fan doesnt work and coolant gets way too hot

Good morning, I have an SN 95 98 mustang gt selling the engine along with the harness and everything that
comes with it. One of the lifters need to be replaced and the engine has 162,000 miles on it. I am also selling the transmission along with the engine in good condition has a steeda shifter on it. I am asking $2700 for everything. I live in Arlington, Texas you can reach me at 817)899-341 (Clifton)

Junkyard Digs picked up an abandoned project Mustang II for $4k.

Mustang II

I suppose I should create a thread introducing myself since I'm sure you'll see more of me. I have a 1988 T-Top Mustang (5.0 V8) that we've had in our family since I was born (90s child). This was my Dad's favorite car and his weekend projects usually involved this car. Back when I was in Middle School, we restored the interior of the Mustang and the paint to its former glory. I learned most of what I know about cars from this car (oil changes, alternator swaps, electric work, etc).

Since then, some years have passed and unfortunately with the time passing, my father passed unexpectedly (around 8 years ago). We've had the car with family while I've been unable to store the car, but now with my new location, etc I have the time and space to put resources and love into the car to keep the spirit of my father alive.

The first issues I tackled since the cars been back with me is improving some of our former electrical work (you don't want to see the old alternator harness haha -- I hope we didn't do this, but if we did it lasted a long time soooooo). Along with a cracked battery terminal, I'm ready to sort some more of the interior electrical out and restore some of the components to their former glory (LMR has been an amazing discovery for parts -- holy moly I didn't realize I could find so many restoration parts).

The next project(s) for this car is sorting out the idle/stalling at start to improve the drive-ability and reliability. It runs rough and the idle fluctuates a fair bit at start and if you don't give it a bit of support with some steady gas (around 1700-2000 RPM I think), it stalls out. After a couple of minutes helping it out, the car runs perfect and future starts are healthy and happy until the engine goes cold.

My guess is there's some kind of issue with the air/gas mixture at start, but I'm gonna have to do a smoke test this week on the air and vacuum system to see if we have a few leaks (I know for a fact the A/C vacuum reservoir is disconnected -- I have a replacement hose arriving today).

Other than that, I'm throwing a double-din headunit in so I can have wireless Android Auto/Apple Carplay along with a backup camera. Looking forward to getting things back to where they should be with this car. I'm sure my Dad would be excited with the work I have planned and I wish he could be a part of the project.

Let me know if you have any tips or tricks for when I'm working on this car. I'm learning more often than not to start super basic as it often is the most basic of things that are wrong.

Hi All, I took off the phleum n value covers but now need to decide what color they should be. I have attached the color that I will be painting the color later on. Any suggestions?

If it's not one thing, it's another! Now I can't get the motor to start.
'93 5.0 from a Mustang. Basically, a fresh rebuild. I've got fuel (shoots out when I depress the schrader valve) and spark (good spark outta the plug wires). At TDC the timing mark is where it's supposed to be and the rotor is pointed at #1 on the cap. Turns over fine. When I turn the distributor all the way to the left (pass side) it backfires through the headers while turning over and when turned more to the right (drivers side) it doesn't backfire. That's about as far as my expertise will take me! What am I missing?

65 Mustang 289 I am replacing the distributor vac advance. My distributor has the protronix electronic module in it which must be removed first. I no longer have the clear plastic "feeler gauge" that comes with the Protronix when new to set the gap. Does anyone know what the correct thickness is so i can use a regular feeler gauge to put it all back together.
Any input is greatly appreciated

Hey all -

Any of you guys swapped the OE 5th (.68) with either the .73 used in the 2005+ v6 T5's or the GM .72? I'm having a hard time digging up the spline/countershaft gears (like via a spec sheet or someone that has actually done it). The gap between 4th-5th is too wide for my liking w/ a 1.00-.68 and it would be much more useful if .72-.73 was an option.

Thanks!

I'm going to buy a laptop or tablet just for tuning and would like to know what I need.
This will be my first venture into efi tuning as I just got my mspnp2 .
Seems like so many different serial ports and storage capacities .