2Blue2's 1977 Cobra2 Driveway Build
- Thread starter 2Blue2
- Start date
With house roof on and Solar panels reinstalled I can finally spend a moment with the Cobra .
I want an arming switch for the line loc and cut out,
so no need to plug into cig lighter (you know unplug phone and all)
With a hammer and vise I made a little switch plate.
Took dash apart and it mounts with no mods to car at all.
Just sandwiches under dash pad.
Off to spray bomb it hot rod black and figure how to get wires to it without cutting car anywhere.
Gauges are out for mock up.
I want an arming switch for the line loc and cut out,
so no need to plug into cig lighter (you know unplug phone and all)
With a hammer and vise I made a little switch plate.
Took dash apart and it mounts with no mods to car at all.
Just sandwiches under dash pad.
Off to spray bomb it hot rod black and figure how to get wires to it without cutting car anywhere.
Gauges are out for mock up.
Some where in this thread some of those gauges come from a 75?I think but had to do tach swapping.
On!
Off!
On! ~ Off!
On,Off,On,Off,On,OffOnoffonoffon
Dang it 2B2 your obsessive compulsive tourettes type nature is showing
Well now I can charge my phone, do burnouts, and annoy the neighbors all at the same time!
Yea! fo the Go Fun Switch
Wish it was a go fast button instead...
That rust pocked faded oxidized paint looks ok from 20ft when you wash it.
Kids going fishing now.
Off!
On! ~ Off!
On,Off,On,Off,On,OffOnoffonoffon
Dang it 2B2 your obsessive compulsive tourettes type nature is showing
Well now I can charge my phone, do burnouts, and annoy the neighbors all at the same time!
Yea! fo the Go Fun Switch
Wish it was a go fast button instead...
That rust pocked faded oxidized paint looks ok from 20ft when you wash it.
Kids going fishing now.
The right front still has a brake clacking sound.
After some disassembly and inspection it seems the movement / sound is in the rack itself.
You can pull the tie rod back and forth and get the movement / slop.
Also the instant power steering squeal every time you touch the gas or even start.
So jack em up and drain em a soda bottle.
Trying keep drive way clean.
Rack comes out with out pulling oil pan but metal sleeve in bushing pulled part way out and had to jack engine to remove rack.
What evers it is out.
New tire rods, old rack.
After some disassembly and inspection it seems the movement / sound is in the rack itself.
You can pull the tie rod back and forth and get the movement / slop.
Also the instant power steering squeal every time you touch the gas or even start.
So jack em up and drain em a soda bottle.
Trying keep drive way clean.
Rack comes out with out pulling oil pan but metal sleeve in bushing pulled part way out and had to jack engine to remove rack.
What evers it is out.
New tire rods, old rack.
Found my perpetual leak.
Crimps and dents in tubes and they aint headers.
Bet that why the pump squeals.
That ones is flat.............................................................................................................^
Alright its a leaky squealy 44 yr old POS.
Gonna half to fix it somehow. Off to scan the internet for ways to spend money.
Crimps and dents in tubes and they aint headers.
Bet that why the pump squeals.
That ones is flat.............................................................................................................^
Alright its a leaky squealy 44 yr old POS.
Gonna half to fix it somehow. Off to scan the internet for ways to spend money.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
When I was thinking about using which power steering pump and stuff, I found different forum posts about upgrading the MustangII Steering rack (manly pickup guys using the MII front suspension).
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...rading-to-power-steering.702232/#post-7811622
I bought than such a 88 t-bird /fox mustang power steering rack (1 piece). It is much lighter than the original because it is made from cast aluminum (and also smaller). It was the CARDONE 22207 from rockauto. Fair price for an upgrade. As you know the car still is not running and I'm not sure if the original steering pump is the right one to use with that steering rack. I'm also not sure if the standard hoses will fit. My setup is custom, but I know the pressure, when the relief valve opens...
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...rading-to-power-steering.702232/#post-7811622
I bought than such a 88 t-bird /fox mustang power steering rack (1 piece). It is much lighter than the original because it is made from cast aluminum (and also smaller). It was the CARDONE 22207 from rockauto. Fair price for an upgrade. As you know the car still is not running and I'm not sure if the original steering pump is the right one to use with that steering rack. I'm also not sure if the standard hoses will fit. My setup is custom, but I know the pressure, when the relief valve opens...
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Here is one of the links I kept where they discuss about the right pump/pressure:
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/mustang-ii-twitchy-steering.207903/
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/mustang-ii-twitchy-steering.207903/
Isn't the t bird rack mounting a bit different and needs the Offset bushing?
power 15.5 wide and manual 16 inch wide mounting
Different fittings and a matching pump?
Those two articles discuss if from a street rod point of view.
The seal kit available doesn't solve wear on the rack and pinion gears themselves.
power 15.5 wide and manual 16 inch wide mounting
Different fittings and a matching pump?
Those two articles discuss if from a street rod point of view.
The seal kit available doesn't solve wear on the rack and pinion gears themselves.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Yes, you need offset bushings or you elongate the existing holes.
I used fittings to AN: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Assets/install/pdf/steering/ST-73r3.pdf
And build my own lines with PTFE liner braided hoses. Which works quite well for DIY. But isn't cheap.
I used a pump from a VW Polo which has a relieve pressure of 72 bar (quite low, but should fit the steering rack). The pump is the same construction (design from ZF) which tuff stuff also uses as "type II" pumps:
You find them in many cars, but with different pressure relieve value, but this can be adjusted.
It's an efficient pump, not so noisy and doesn't heat the fluid as much as the old style pumps do.
Here is something about the pressure relieve height:
www.hotrodders.com
Again, I don't want you to talk you into that modification, because I didn't drove my setup and I can't give any feedback.
All in all, the rebuild kit will be the cheapest solution.
In this info page you can find the thread sizes for the pressure and return side (they are correct):
You could look up, if stock hoses fit this thread and perhaps some one can help out with values of the steering pump pressure. I didn't find values in the shop manual (haynes) or the interwebz...
I used fittings to AN: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Assets/install/pdf/steering/ST-73r3.pdf
And build my own lines with PTFE liner braided hoses. Which works quite well for DIY. But isn't cheap.
I used a pump from a VW Polo which has a relieve pressure of 72 bar (quite low, but should fit the steering rack). The pump is the same construction (design from ZF) which tuff stuff also uses as "type II" pumps:
Universal Type II Power Steering Pump
Universal Type II Power Steering Pump, TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories, 9004 Madison Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44102
www.tuffstuffperformance.com
It's an efficient pump, not so noisy and doesn't heat the fluid as much as the old style pumps do.
Here is something about the pressure relieve height:
How to properly mate a GM pump to a Mustang II rack
Someone asked the other day about a problem he was having with his Mustang II rack blowing out seals. He was running a GM pump and a Mustang II IFS power steering rack unit just like everyone else and wasn't sure why he was having the problem or what was causing it. To begin with the GM pump...
www.hotrodders.com
Again, I don't want you to talk you into that modification, because I didn't drove my setup and I can't give any feedback.
All in all, the rebuild kit will be the cheapest solution.
In this info page you can find the thread sizes for the pressure and return side (they are correct):
More Information for CARDONE 22207
www.rockauto.com
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Yes, of course no GM stuff. I'm 80% sure the original power steering pump will have the right pressure. It should be between 1000 and 1200 PSI. If not the relief pressure can be adjusted via shims...
But as long as the pressure and return line doesn't fit, I also think it will cost more than just a rebuild kit or rebuild rack.
But as long as the pressure and return line doesn't fit, I also think it will cost more than just a rebuild kit or rebuild rack.
GM stuff is great in small doses, hell, Ford used Rochester carburetors and Saginaw power steering pumps from GM on a few things over the years.
There's a GM 1-wire alternator on ElSuperPinto's ol' pushrod engine for a reason, it's simple and it works.
extra_stout
5 Year Member
Now I get it. The ZF power steering pump is called type II and is related to GM in north america...
But still it is a design from the german supplier ZF
You find this pump in every 80ties to early 2000 in BMW, VW, Audi and whatnot.
But still it is a design from the german supplier ZF
You find this pump in every 80ties to early 2000 in BMW, VW, Audi and whatnot.
Now that I'd never install.Now I get it. The ZF power steering pump is called type II and is related to GM in north america...
But still it is a design from the german supplier ZF
You find this pump in every 80ties to early 2000 in BMW, VW, Audi and whatnot.
German cars are the worst pieces of junk on the planet.
